DIY Electric Car Forums - Blogs http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php DIY Electric Car Forums - Information and community support on how to convert existing gas and diesel engines into electric and how to build new electric vehicles (EV) en Thu, 17 May 2012 03:47:12 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg DIY Electric Car Forums - Blogs http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php Arc 1 Conversion Journal 3/3/2012 http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=489 Sat, 03 Mar 2012 20:32:44 GMT It has been about 5 months since I posted my first blog about converting my car to electricity. My professional life has kept me busy, but I still... It has been about 5 months since I posted my first blog about converting my car to electricity. My professional life has kept me busy, but I still have made good progress on my conversion.

Winter 2011-2012:

Engine Bay and Under-car: The car is now completely gas-less. No engine, no fuel tank, no alternator, pumps, radiators, exhaust pipes, or muffler. I was also able to strip a good 2/3rds of the wiring from the car as they were directly related to ICE components. I only need existing wiring for lights, horns, wipers, rear defroster, etc. The bay and belly are now clean of all grease; estimated 2 gallons of crud stuck to the bottom of the car that is now gone.

Interior: After general cleaning, I have pulled out the seats and carpets; I am beginning to reupholster the interior. This car will have two-tone imitation-leather seating; black and cream. Carpet color is undecided as of yet.

Dashboard: I have removed the dash to allow me to work on the car's systems. The climate control system is now separated and I am ready to install the ceramic heating element in the place of the heater core. The air conditioning evaporator is now able to be converted to my cold water heat exchanger.

Instrument Cluster: I have created a bill of materials for my new instrumentation system. I will be using a GPS speedometer and odometer (The state of Utah does not care about ODO readings after the car is 10 years old). For tachometer, I will be using a sensor ring on the second shaft end of the motor connected to a new instrument. Motor volts, amps, temperature will be showed on 2 inch round dials in the place of oil temp, 12V battery voltage, and fuel level. A new 'A' pillar instrument cluster will show battery pack volts, amps, and DOD. In place of the dome light, a custom control unit will be installed regulating EV systems such as the controller and charger.

Picking a Motor: I have spent many nights deciding on motors. After much back and forth, I have picked one. I bought an Advanced DC X91-4001. This is a 6.7" motor that is typically used in smaller cars. But in the theme of remaining true to my build philosophy, it is fully capable of handling my actual driving conditions, but doesn't exceed it by far. I am not building a dragster. I am building a commuter car for a city with 45MPH speed limits.

Motor Calculations: I spend many hours working on vehicle performance calculations, and some of the results are available for viewing on the ARC 1 garage entry. Looks like theoretical top speed on level ground is 90MPH.

Motor arrives: I went to pick up my motor from UPS on one evening. I had been so excited for the last week while it was on its way. As soon as I saw the box though, I new something was terribly wrong. The shaft was poking out the side of the box, and it is obvious the motor was dropped along its drive axis. I demanded immediate inspection. The motor was completely locked up. I think UPS must have crushed the bearings. I refused the shipment, filed a claim, and as of today am awaiting word if a new motor is coming. Needless to say that I was pissed at UPS, who, like any 'good' corporate entity, is denying any responsibility.

Adapter Plate: I have a couple options. First, someone on the forums has offered to sell an adapter from one of their former conversions. I still need to verify it it will work in my application. I have yet to see photos. Second, a local EV buisiness, operated by Carl Clark, builds custom adapter plates for $420, and builds previously constructed plates for about $360. You can see these at www.electriccarinternational.com.

Transmission: The transmission is drained and polished now. I have discovered a small BB sized hole in the case around the differential gear that appears to be caused by manufacturing defects. I have learned several repair techniques from my mechanic genius brother in law. With any luck, this transmission will not leak oil ever again.

Steering rack: I have pulled out the old power steering rack, and cleaned it up. I attempted to buy a manual rack, but the company said they don't actually have one to sell. They just wanted to refurbish the one I had. They couldn't wrap their heads around the idea I wanted a manual rack, even though I have a car with a power rack. I am considering saving money by looping the lines and just using extra muscle power for steering. I am also considering using a small hydraulic pump that I can turn on and off inside the cabin to assist in low speed situations.

Controller: I am currently researching controllers and will most likely build an Open Revolt Controller. 144 volts and 500 amps will work just fine for my driving, but I am interested in using the driver board to power higher voltage Mosfets, so that I could run a 192 volt battery pack to increase range an efficiency.

Batteries: I will be using Absorbed Glass Mat, Deep Cycle, Sealed Lead Acid Batteries. AGMs have amazing attributes even though they have less AH capacity than a similar sized flooded lead acid battery. The batteries of choice at the moment is the Werker brand from Batteries Plus, 12 Volt, 55AH, Deep Cycle. I have been offered a substantial discount for bulk purchases. I am looking about $100 per battery, and no shipping costs as a bonus.


Charger: currently leaning towards the Elcon brand. Very good prices. Also considering the Open Revolt Charger that is under development.

That's about all I have to share at the moment. I will be loading a bunch of pictures of the project once I am back in town. I am still hoping on having the project done by mid summer.

Thanks for the support everybody.
-AviatorBJP ]]> AviatorBJP http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=489 First steps http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=487 Sun, 26 Feb 2012 12:23:09 GMT I have bought my donor car. It's a 2002 Saturn SL1 with 220,000 miles and a rough engine, however it still runs. The price was $900 which was OK I think? I have been looking for ages on Craigslist for the right car and toyed with all sort of cars. In the end I went with what was available and what I could afford.
I have also bought on Ebay a used Advanced FB1-4001A DC motor which was removed from a EV ranger for $511, the seller also had the controller, a CURTIS PMC model 1231C-8601, voltage 96-144, current 500 A, so I am getting both for $1050. I am driving to Pittsburgh today to pick them up.
I am thinking of doing a conversion like Daniel Lynn's car:-

http://evalbum.com/2169

I am presently stuck on batteries?:confused: However I think getting the engine out of the old car and fixing the motor is going to be challenge enough to start with.
Like the Chinese say "a journey of a thousand miles starts with the first step" well I have made my first step!
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]]> Fatboynotslim http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=487 Stripped Bike http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=468 Wed, 28 Dec 2011 03:48:07 GMT This is after I stripped the bike and preparing for the EV. This is after I stripped the bike and preparing for the EV.
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]]> RogerK http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=468 Honda Goldwing Conversion http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=467 Wed, 28 Dec 2011 03:45:56 GMT I am doing an electrical conversion of an 88 Honda Goldwing. I wll try to post here frequent enough to show progress and share useful information. I am doing an electrical conversion of an 88 Honda Goldwing. I wll try to post here frequent enough to show progress and share useful information.
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]]> RogerK http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=467 VW Build http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=466 Sat, 17 Dec 2011 21:25:32 GMT I collected the car last weekend and, having not seen it in the flesh, i was very pleased with what I'd bought.

It's a MK2 golf with 9'' ADC motor fitted, battery tray up front and one sunk into the rear where the fuel tank was. It needs a reasonable amount of attention but is a greater starter project for my first EV.

The lights, etc run from a dedicated 12V battery (missing) and all the wiring is there so it should just be a matter of sticking the battery in.

The brakes run off a modified VW central locking vacuum pump which will need upgrading with something better.

The interior is in good order.

I intend to use a Open Revolt and battery pack of 120V 100/110 Ah...I think. I'd love to use lithium but initial outlay procludes this as we're buying a new home and expecting a new baby in May!!

I'm chuffed with the car. It cost £750. The trailer cost £45 to rent and diesel to pick it up was about £40. I'm hoping to get her back on the road for under £2000.:D ]]> Ace_bridger http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=466 Almost famous http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=460 Thu, 10 Nov 2011 13:01:08 GMT I'm a software engineer by trade, and I was recently on the a popular industry podcast
.Net Rocks.

About a month ago they hinted that they wanted to do an off-topic show on Electric Vehicles. So I wrote them an email and they wrote back and before I knew it, I was on the show. Anyway, we talked about all topics EV, and I am pretty proud that I got to introduce EV to a much broader audience. It's one thing to geek out with the converted, but to reach out to those who may only think about it in passing and plant the seed that hey... Maybe for 99% of my driving electric can work. That's major to me.

-Bruce ]]> bruceme http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=460 Converting a Formula SAE Car to Electric Power http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=459 Wed, 02 Nov 2011 05:02:09 GMT Greetings! I am mechanical engineering student at the University of Washington and I thought I share my senior design project that a couple of... Greetings!

I am mechanical engineering student at the University of Washington and I thought I share my senior design project that a couple of other students and I are working on for the UW Formula SAE Team. It is to convert the 2010 built car to electric power!

The design phase has gone on for a while now and is nearly complete! Just now have we decided to write about it because it would be a real treat if we could actually build it! Here are some design specs.

System components:
- 30S 111V Lithium Polymer, 40-50AH
- HPEV AC-35 Motor/Curtis 1238-7601 Controller

Projected Performance:
- 0-60mph in 4.0 seconds w/ full aero-package.

You can find our campaign to reach our funding goal in the link provided. It includes video and information about the project. http://startsomegood.com/Venture/uw_...he_uw_fsae_car

More to come! ]]> EV Dawg http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=459 RIPPERTON Electric track bike http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=458 Sun, 30 Oct 2011 18:11:07 GMT
Quote:
Originally Posted by RIPPERTON View Post
the 600's came back on Tuesday and had one in the bike the same afternoon.
It performs ok and doesnt cut out but has rough regen especially at low speed.
Anyway I made a new dash board and installed a blue led in between the 2 kelly led's which lights up when the cooling system is running so now i dont forget to turn it on.
So you are ready to pass on your old 120volt 1000amp controller now and advance in to the unknown.
On investigation of further cooling concepts (mainly total immersion).
Laquering over the magnets and rotors will protect the magnets from corrosion and improve the structural integrity of the rotor.
Composite sleaved tube housing design and CNC stator mount/ end plates with a mirror image will cut down cost and manufacturing time along with the constant diameter shaft and common seals and bearings for both ends and between stators on longer designs say 4rotors.
This design concept allows for further expansion on the multi rotor/ stator concept with the enhanced cooling you were looking for.
Suggested volume for radiator cooling is 1.5 times rhe immersive volume of the motors internal free air space. ]]> gplate http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=458 Arc 1 Conversion Journal 9/23/2011 http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=455 Sat, 24 Sep 2011 03:55:48 GMT 9/19/2011: Bought 1993 Plymouth Laser for $300. Then towed the vehicle back to our hometown at the cost of $200 in rental and gasoline. 10 hours of... 9/19/2011: Bought 1993 Plymouth Laser for $300. Then towed the vehicle back to our hometown at the cost of $200 in rental and gasoline. 10 hours of work, $500 spent, starting weight of vehicle: 2531 pounds.

9/20/2011: Cleaned car. Removed: radiators, exhaust manifold, upper cylinder head, alternator, camshaft, and assorted support bars. 6 hours of work, no money spent, 96 pounds removed from vehicle.

9/21/2011: Sold above components to recycling center. Removed intake manifold, starter motor, and all remaining accessories. 4 hours of work, $30 earned, 75 pounds removed from vehicle.

9/22/2011: Drained Oil, bought special tools, removed remaining portion of cylinder heads. 2 hours of work, $20 spent, 5 pounds removed from vehicle.

9/23/2011: Worked at my real job. Got home too late to do anything but blog about my electric car! ]]> AviatorBJP http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=455 Charge like you Volt-to: DIY J1772 http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=453 Sun, 04 Sep 2011 03:50:56 GMT I have a dirty secret, I like free stuff and I think you do too. Lately I find myself charged on public charging. No, I technically rarely... I have a dirty secret, I like free stuff and I think you do too. Lately I find myself charged on public charging. No, I technically rarely "have-to" use the thin boxes popping up all over town. I've had facility folks come over twice now to tell me, "Those spaces aren't open!" I fluff my feathers and point to my charging cord and extort... "Oh yes I am, and I have a card to prove it". Yes, I carry my card with pride and I'm not afraid to tell those gasaholics a thing or two!

Until recently I relegated myself to the basement of the two story out-house of charging; 120V! At 1.6wk, that ment 2hrs to charge a typical 20mi trip-leg. So for all the glory of free charging, it just got my charger begging to suck on that lovely 220V/30A hiding behind a fancy gas nozzle look-alike. Who is that fooling anyway?

I've had a hard time bellying up to the bar of SAE and pulling out my anty in the J1772 game. For all practical purposes it serves the same purpose as a NEMA L6-30 and costs 5x more. But if you want to play the game, you gotta pay the man. So I splurged and spent the $110 on one for my birthday.

It arrived yesterday (Friday) and I spent this morning wiring up my adapter. I started by chopping off 12" from my home 220v system (plug and all). I use heavy duty 3 x 6ga rubberized cable. The J1772 I have came with solder lug/pins (one end is a lug, the other is the pin). I tin'd the lugs with a small torch, stripped the wire leads and tin'd them so they wouldn't spread in the lug. I made a splice wire for the ground lug (used for the signal line, I'll talk about that in a minute). I placed all the spacers and parts together so I wouldn't have to do anything twice. I torched the lugs again and dipped the leads into them... NOTE: Pin 3 (Ground) is a different sized pin. I didn't realize this and spent 10 minutes unsoldering/resoldering. This all went together in about an hour.

After that I did the research on the sense line. If you want all the benefits of this great and robust power standard, google other projects, I skipped all those subtleties and got'r'done! Here's how you can do it too.

Pin 4 is a +/- 12v PWM signal. If you pull that pin down to +6v, the charger will fire up. So I wired in a 50v diode with a resistor to ground (remember that extra lead). Technically the SAE specification calls for 890 ohms, but that radio store was out of 890 ohms and 1k-ohm appears to do the trick. I took the car to the nearest charging station and tested it at full power today. It says I pulled 3.51 kw :D

Pin 4 ----->|--------[1k-ohm]------- Pin 3 (Ground)



So with a little wire, some basic skills and one stupidly expensive receptacle, you can build a J1772 to NEMA L6-30R adapter for yourself.

Drive however you want, but charge safe!

-Bruce
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]]> bruceme http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=453 Heat anyone!? http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=452 Fri, 02 Sep 2011 13:15:26 GMT I finally finished the heater. about a year ago, I took apart the ceramic core of a space heater. Then created a replacement bracket for the... I finally finished the heater. about a year ago, I took apart the ceramic core of a space heater. Then created a replacement bracket for the ceramic that replaced the stock BMW hot-water heater core. I installed that and left the wires dangling. Finally I figured out the wiring for turning it on. I ran a tap off the fan reostat that went to 11v on the lowest setting. I ran that tap through the disconnected rear-defrost switch, then that switched 12v ran to a tyco relay which excites and turns on a fused 150vdc line to the core.

So if you turn on the fan and push the rear heat button, you get heat. It draws about 4A, so not much but it will keep the frost from building on a cold morning. ]]> bruceme http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=452 Minor repairs http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=449 Tue, 23 Aug 2011 13:04:01 GMT Fixed: * Front fender (fiberglass, fill, paint) * Passenger side door interior handle * lit the speedometer Fixed:
  • Front fender (fiberglass, fill, paint)
  • Passenger side door interior handle
  • lit the speedometer
  • wired the heater element (already installed)
  • Tapped the fan rheostat and an existing switch to control the heater
]]> bruceme http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=449 2001-2003 Prius as electric Car http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=448 Mon, 22 Aug 2011 02:49:26 GMT One can turn 2001-2003 Prius as Electric Car very easily and cheaply ..All one has do is to remove the EFI fuse once ign. is no and you get "READY" indication. But now it well only go about 1.7 or less unit the HV battery down to far.So one well need to add Power to the HV Battery. It can be done by using, a 2nd gen Prius Boost converter. One needed about min of 160 volt. of battery power , the boost converter well increase the to about to about 306 V that should keep the HV battery (OEM) with enough, to drive the now Electric car (prius) until added battery goes to low ..the boost inverter should supply about 100 amps.see at :https://sites.google.com/site/20012003electricprius/ let me know what you think.

ken ]]> sparkswb6nov http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=448 Controller update http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=444 Wed, 20 Jul 2011 05:46:23 GMT Controller started turning off under heavy loads. Asked around and was told I needed to replace the filter board caps. $90 @ mouser, some heavy... Controller started turning off under heavy loads. Asked around and was told I needed to replace the filter board caps. $90 @ mouser, some heavy duty soldering, everything is still going strong two months later. Also, I did a measured 45mi and measured 9kwh (of 14kw). The entire trip was secondary roads (35 typical, 45mph max). ]]> bruceme http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=444 DIY Electric Car Wiki - A Tremendous Conversion Resource http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=427 Sat, 04 Jun 2011 17:50:31 GMT Some of the members here will find this obvious but I've spoken with several people recently who had no idea that we have such a fantastic resource built up. For those of you who don't know, we have an electric car conversion wiki which has tons of info for beginners and pros. It's the same one as the link on the top right of the page, but I admit, our site design is a little weak so I'm not terribly surprised that it gets overlooked. Hey, it's all about the content, right? Anyway, check out the wiki and feel free to contribute! It's a fantastic thing.

Special thanks to all the members who spent so many hours compiling and formatting all of the information there! ]]> rbgrn http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=427