DIY Electric Car Forums - Blogs http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php DIY Electric Car Forums - Information and community support on how to convert existing gas and diesel engines into electric and how to build new electric vehicles (EV) en Sat, 25 May 2013 19:52:26 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg DIY Electric Car Forums - Blogs http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php Might go without the BMS http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=852 Fri, 26 Apr 2013 05:48:56 GMT Despite the cost of the thing, my experience of two small shorts while wiring up the pack - 7.2v only - has scared me sufficiently that I don't want any unfused cabling where it could possibly short out the pack.

At the same time, fusing 100 cells would take days and my usage is likely to be only 30% of real pack capacity, so I can probably stay away from both ends. Anybody want to buy an unused BMS? ]]> sabahtom http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=852 Cleaning aluminium oxide off terminals http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=851 Mon, 15 Apr 2013 10:47:22 GMT Wiring up the pack. After doing 70% of it, I read on evworks that it's a good idea to clean the terminals with a wire brush to remove aluminium oxide. So disconnected all the cells and BMS cabling. A whole day "wasted" - except that it will hopefully perform better with the lower resistance. I was surprised at the change in colour/albedo on some of the terminals, I'd never noticed they were oxidised. ]]> sabahtom http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=851 BMS working http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=850 Sat, 16 Mar 2013 14:47:47 GMT Attachment 179 (http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=179) Attachment 180... Click image for larger version Name: DSC_3319.JPG Views: 88 Size: 603.4 KB ID: 179

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I don't want to pay up for a DC-DC unit until I can see the rest of it working. So I've been using a PC 500w ATX power supply for the 12v that my BMS needs. It may be enough to run the motor controller too, with the back wheels jacked up so I can see them spin. After 2 years of dragging on I would like that.

Unfortunately I mislabelled the outputs so I've been struggling to get the BMS to run on 5v without knowing; the manufacturer politely told me that it's very hard for them to troubleshoot remotely so I ended up doing what I should have done first, checking everything with a multimeter.

I found the 5v problem soon enough, if I'd done that in the beginning I would have been two weeks ahead of where I am now. The reason it eluded me was that the main module and LCD display seem to run fine off 5v, despite being labelled 12v. Only the data collection modules really need 12v, and they were the only parts not working, so I didn't think to check. ]]> sabahtom http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=850 BMS test http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=847 Fri, 08 Mar 2013 15:46:10 GMT Motor is in, main cables are crimped. Now testing BMS.

BMS is HiPower OEM. So far it powers up but doesn't collect data, only beeps at me and says theres no connection from the main data module to the data collection modules.
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]]> sabahtom http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=847 Etiquette In Charge http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=841 Fri, 04 Jan 2013 12:14:51 GMT It's applaudable to see so many plug-in vehicles on the roads... but at the public charge; it's a shock. Here's a scenario philisophis electricus:

You are beyond the range of no return... You pull into your strategic public charger to find it occupied by, let's say a Volt. You can not get home, the Volt of course, can. Do you unplug it?

Comments please... ]]> bruceme http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=841 Is an AC motor in your future? http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=840 Sun, 23 Dec 2012 13:53:52 GMT All major car makers use AC propulsion systems for a reason. That reason is simplicity, robustness and excellent, programmable operating... All major car makers use AC propulsion systems for a reason.
That reason is simplicity, robustness and excellent, programmable
operating parameters.

For the past year, there has been a group of people studying
AC propulsion systems. They all eventually noticed the huge
gap in the AC motor offerings from the many motor manufacturers.

The present AC50 and soon to be AC75 systems are at the top of
the "lower" cost systems out there for DIY people.

Among this study group, are engineers, scientist types and some
talented machinist /fabricators, as well as people like me (I'm more
like a Swiss army knife).

They have decided put their heads together to work out the
methodology and materials required to do a DIY Industrial AC motor customization.

Their findings, so far, are really simple and cheap. Our web site
includes selection, rewinding and controller optimization programming.


We have started a new forum dedicated to sharing this information
to the DIY crowd. www.ivanbennett.com/forum/

We even include machining operations.



So, anyone really interested in making their own AC propulsion
motor is encouraged to view, ask questions and contribute to
the discussion.



The forum is still very young, so please be patient, contribute
and help us grow.

TYVM, Miz
__________________________________________________ _______________
The AC Propulsion Study Group
__________________________________________________ _______________ ]]> mizlplix http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=840 Real needs in an EV transmission http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=831 Thu, 01 Nov 2012 08:31:29 GMT What do we really need out of our EV automatic? We want it to drive like a normal car while getting GREAT mileage.....LOL There are many... What do we really need out of our EV automatic? We want it to drive like a normal car while getting GREAT mileage.....LOL

There are many commonalities with an ICE transmission as it is doing the same job and it can not tell what is turning it. The huge benefit to electricity is that at stop lights, it can sit and not use any energy. It does not need to "idle".

We can use a torque converter or not, but the automatic transmission does have one problem. On early automatic transmissions, it needs to be signaled when to shift up and down, but there is no vacuum signal to modulate the transmission shift sequence.

On the later units, they were cable actuated by using the engine throttle linkage
to set the relationship. There was a bell crank arrangement that tied the throttle position to the transmission shift pressure signal.

And finally, on the late electronic transmissions, it uses a combination cable and TCU module to over see the shift process.

All three can be "band-aided" in some fashion.

The early vacuum units can be made fully manual shift. The cable units can have a custom proportionating bell crank fabricated. The electronic transmissions can use an aftermarket shift programmer like the "Opti-shift" to regulate the shift.

Message: DO your planning way before you do the build.

Miz ]]> mizlplix http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=831 Motor in http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=824 Mon, 22 Oct 2012 06:20:11 GMT Bought most of the bits for the conversion in December 2010. They shipped in and I took delivery in May 2011. July 2012: Embarrassing mess. Wasted... Bought most of the bits for the conversion in December 2010. They shipped in and I took delivery in May 2011.

July 2012: Embarrassing mess. Wasted $$ in battery connectors made of tinned steel and copper mesh. Good lesson: make sure I post online any questions at least a week before I have to make a decision.

Eventually bought good ones and a vacuum pump for the brakes from

www.evworks.com.au/

The good ones cost 25% of what I paid for the bad ones.

8 Oct 2012: AC55 motor is in. Its resting on a chassis crosspiece, still needs to get welded to the motor mounts. The flywheel has been lightened by shaving off the outside, its around an 30mm smaller in diameter and around 1.5kg lighter. I didn't do anything to the vertical face because the machine they were using wasn't up to it. Also don't want to lose any strength on the clutch since the new motor has more torque.

18 Oct: I had a chain and sprocket fixed to the motor hub, to come out of the adapter plate and drive a shaft so I could use the traction motor to drive aircon and power steering. Lubrication, chain durability and too-low rpms are issues. Have to change the clutch friction plate anyway so I'll take off the chain when the clutch is being changed.

I'll try to get it running and do the aircon and power steering later. I want to test it on the driveway first. Already got the 12v brake pump, should be enough for a 20 meter trip.
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]]> sabahtom http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=824 The Plan for the Waiheke EV http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=822 Thu, 11 Oct 2012 19:23:32 GMT http://www.waihekeev.blogspot.co.nz

I bought Gavin Shoebridge's EV Secret's book, Kia Ora mate! and am starting down the path.

The first thing the ebook I bought said to do was plan. I don't have a donor vehicle yet, I am going to trawl trade me to see what I can find, and what I like, after I work out what my modifications will weigh!

So the requirements for my Waiheke EV.

Power

The highest speed limit on the island is 70km/h, and that's only on one 3km stretch of road. The rest of the island is 50km/h. So speed is not a big concern. I don't therefore need a high voltage motor, so I can keep my costs down. A 144v motor set up could get my car to 130km/h, but when will I need that?

However, there are lots of hills on the island. So when EV secrets tells me that a 48v motor can get my car to 50km/h, I think that would be less on a hilly island.

So: I think I will design myself a 96v or even a 72v system.


Range

The island is small. after looking it up on google maps, and working out all the distances I'm likely to need to cover, there's really no need for me to have a range of more than 30km.


Batteries

So, with a range requirement of only 30km, if i were to use Lead Acid batteries I would need to install a battery capacity of 60km, as those batteries do not like to get below 50% charge.


If I were to use the Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries, I would need only to build a 40km range, as these can discharge down to 20%. These are however much more expensive. yet lighter. the trade off.


The donor car

this is an important decison, and one I can make only once I've decided on the other parts, because the gross vehicle weight of the car once all the parts are in (and the passengers) cannot be exceeded.

What will I choose?

It must be:

  • no rust!
  • light, with a GVM able to hold the weight of the batteries.
  • no power steering or air conditioning!
  • looks nice
  • of a make where an adaptor plate already exists (Ideally)
Once I have the donor car sitting in front of my house, then I'll feel like I'm truly on my way.

This blog also exists at http://www.waihekeev.blogspot.co.nz

Please share your thoughts. ]]> WaihekeEV http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=822 <![CDATA["To shift or not to shift, that is the question."]]> http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=819 Fri, 21 Sep 2012 13:17:25 GMT You are running a transmission because you have admitted that you need two forward gears or need a reverse gear. (DC-without a reversing contactor.)... You are running a transmission because you have admitted that you need two forward gears or need a reverse gear. (DC-without a reversing contactor.)

EV conversions need to be catagorized.

"Heavy"
"medium"
"light"
"Flyweight"

My car is in the light end of the "Light" class". It is almost capable of direct drive, without a transmission.

Several "Rules-of-thumb", need to be established.

More later..... ]]> mizlplix http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=819 Rebuilding the Powerglide for E.V. use. http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=795 Sun, 29 Jul 2012 06:18:18 GMT The rebuild of a transmission actually starts when it is still in the vehicle. It begins when you first get the idea that your trusty box is not... The rebuild of a transmission actually starts when it is still in the vehicle.

It begins when you first get the idea that your trusty box is not well. Any drive-ability information adds to the rebuilding process by helping you decide what needs the most attention.

In this case we know that reverse works but it slips in both forward gears.

Since they use different pressure apply passages, it is safe to assume that it has damage in at least two separate spots.

OK, Lets pull the transmission:
Drain the fluid by removing the pan (or drain plug).
Disconnect the coolant lines.
Disconnect the linkage and driveshaft.

We are pulling the AC50 motor with the transmission:
Disconnect all wiring, primary, control and encoder/thermister.

We have no hood to remove, So Attach the lift chains and tighten it up to the point of lifting the car (looking at the frame for reference).

At this time we can disconnect the rear transmission mount bolts as well as the front motor mounts and mid mounts if so equipped.

Gently lift and guide the unit out.

Separate the Powerglide from the motor unit and take it outside.

Always clean the outside before opening up the internals.

End of part one---------------------------------------------------------- ]]> mizlplix http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=795 Aloha Friday http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=793 Sat, 21 Jul 2012 02:08:42 GMT Today was constructive - I cut the rear off the body, cleaned and painted the transmission, and painted the new front spindles and rear drums. I'm converting the front to disc. I also received the "unused" Curtis 1231C-8601 from a fellow Ebayer at a great price. Earlier this week the VW adapter from Rebirth Auto arrived, so I ordered a lightened flywheel and a clutch kit in order to keep the assembly moving along. I hope to order the motor in a couple of weeks...

Robert ]]> Wolfswagen http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=793 <![CDATA[Wolfswagen '69 Baja Bug Project]]> http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=792 Fri, 20 Jul 2012 01:15:39 GMT On July 1st, 2012, I started my latest (and first EV) project. The donor is a 1969 VW Beetle we've owned since 2001, but it's been in storage since 2003. The body is in great shape, and it even has the factory floorpans still. The car was stripped to just a shell before putting it in storage, so getting the body off the pan was easy. The pictures show where I am in the process, and I plan to add more photos each week.

Although there are a great number of EV kits out there, I've decided to piece this car's conversion together from different sources. If all goes well, I should have this car on the road by Thanksgiving.
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]]> Wolfswagen http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=792 I have been slacking http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=790 Fri, 06 Jul 2012 11:48:32 GMT OK I had some time off well quite a bit recently but I am now back in the saddle again. I am stuck on some problems. 1. Had to make the clutch... OK I had some time off well quite a bit recently but I am now back in the saddle again. I am stuck on some problems.
1. Had to make the clutch adapter plate.
2. The gear box bell housing sit 20mm off the current adapter plate. So I have to fabicate a new one.

On the positive side I think I have a great deal on my lead acid batteries.

Fatboynotslim ]]> Fatboynotslim http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=790 Sevcon PCpak to Millipak - getting the connection http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=785 Fri, 22 Jun 2012 15:59:14 GMT for the benefit of all... I purchased a SEVCON millipak controller and PCpak software. To get connected with it took some experimentation because... for the benefit of all...
I purchased a SEVCON millipak controller and PCpak software. To get connected with it took some experimentation because the pdf documentation says very little. I got connected and this is the proceedure:
1) set your USB serial port to an open port and use 115.2K bps baud, 8 bits, 1 stop bit.
2) connect 2 12 volt batteries in series to make about 25VDC across terminals B- and B+ of the controller.
3) put a single pin into the pin 1 of the molex 16 pin connector on port B of the millipak controller
4) use a jumper to connect pin 1 on port B to B+ (25VDC). Note the green led next to port A on the millipak controller turns on Green and then begins to flash
5) open the PCpak software
6) go to [tools] then [options] and set the protocol (protocol tab) radio button to protocol 2 (millipak)
7) switch to the [options] connection tab and make sure the com port is set correctly - not sure - look up your com port under system / devices in your laptop control panel
8) pull down the connection menu item from the menu bar and click connect - that should get you online ]]> robert_t_bennett http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/blog.php?b=785