<?xml version="1.0" encoding="ISO-8859-1"?>

<rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/">
	<channel>
		<title>DIY Electric Car Forums - Technical Discussion</title>
		<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums</link>
		<description>Designs, Wiring, Adapters, Converters, Contactors, Switches, etc</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 21:53:31 GMT</lastBuildDate>
		<generator>vBulletin</generator>
		<ttl>60</ttl>
		<image>
			<url>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg</url>
			<title>DIY Electric Car Forums - Technical Discussion</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title>Contactor Failure</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49133&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 01:08:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>We had a pretty exciting evening when BOTH the controler (Curtis 1231) and the contactor (Tyco LEV200) failed in the on postion. After a lot of...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>We had a pretty exciting evening when BOTH the controler (Curtis 1231) and the contactor (Tyco LEV200) failed in the on postion. After a lot of smoke, sparks and a small fire we got things under control. Thank goodness for a manual disconnect.<br />
 <br />
I was VERY disappointed with the Tyco as it is rated at 500A and 360V and our system is 144V and with in-line 400 amp fuses that did not blow. I fail to see why the contactor failed. <br />
 <br />
I had an Allright 200SW that was working well but with a rating of 250 amps and 96V I thought we were pushing it too hard. The Tyco while having a higher rating was half the size but I was assured it would work. So if you have a Tyco I would test it to make sure it does work as a safety back up.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>dhrivnak</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49133</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Check out my Schematics</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49080&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Sep 2010 00:06:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I used the schematics from Gav's helpful website (http://www.kiwiev.com/14_2d_battery_install.html) as a base, and changed a few things to match my...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I used the schematics from <a href="http://www.kiwiev.com/14_2d_battery_install.html" target="_blank">Gav's helpful website</a> as a base, and changed a few things to match my build.<br />
<br />
One problem with mine could be that my pot box (pb-5) doesn't have a micro controller, so i cant run the KSI relay through it. Instead i just plan on wiring it straight to ignition does that work?<br />
<br />
Also i have a fan that normally runs off an outlet to use for trunk battery ventilation. I planned on wiring that directly to the charger so when the charger is plugged in the fan turns on. I may use a standard surge protector to link the fan, 12v battery charger and charger. Is that ok??<br />
<br />
<img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_pqtWpB7btpA/TH2YiFPWHUI/AAAAAAAABy0/uvpO1t1nckE/s800/Schematic%201.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
Thanks :)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>omonoid</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49080</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>EMI Shielding</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49048&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 31 Aug 2010 02:10:32 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So I have an arduino micro controller and I was trying out some new code on it b/c my old code is so crude. Each time I programmed the chip and...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I have an arduino micro controller and I was trying out some new code on it b/c my old code is so crude. Each time I programmed the chip and plugged it into my board replacing the old chip the motor took off by itself a few seconds after I turned the key the truck was in neutral of coarse :eek:. I tried a lot of different things to prevent this b/c thought my board may be receiving interference but none of them worked until I tried a different potentiometer one with shorter leads on it and it worked perfectly. The old pot had about four feet of wire so I thought shortening it and twisting the three wires together would work but it did not the motor just took off again but by then I just turned the key on and off really quickly to charge the caps and then all I got was the motor nudging a little using up all the energy in the caps instead of letting the motor go full bore.<br />
My question is could I put some shielding around the pot wire to limit interference?<br />
<br />
Here is the old code. There is a calibration number of -28 on the pot the new code does not have this though maybe that could have something to do with it?<br />
<div style="margin:20px; margin-top:5px">
	<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px">Code:</div>
	<hr /><code style="margin:0px" dir="ltr" style="text-align:left">&nbsp; &nbsp; int potPin = 2;&nbsp; &nbsp; // select the input pin for the potentiometer<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; int ledPin = 11;&nbsp;  // note onlly 5,6, 9,10,11 are PWM<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; int wait = 0;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  // variable to store the value coming from the sensor<br />
<br />
<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; void setup() {<br />
&nbsp;  //&nbsp;  Serial.begin(9600);<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);&nbsp; // declare the ledPin as an OUTPUT<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; }<br />
<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; void loop() {<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; wait = analogRead(potPin) - 28; // read the value from the sensor<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; if(wait &gt; 950){ <br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW);<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; }else{<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // turn the ledPin on<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  delayMicroseconds(1023 - wait); // stop the program for some time<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // turn the ledPin off<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  delayMicroseconds( wait); // stop the program for some time<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; }<br />
&nbsp;  //&nbsp;  Serial.println( wait );<br />
&nbsp; &nbsp; }</code><hr />
</div>Here is the new code.<br />
<div style="margin:20px; margin-top:5px">
	<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px">Code:</div>
	<hr /><code style="margin:0px" dir="ltr" style="text-align:left">/* <br />
Timer/Counter2 PWM mode = 3<br />
Counting sequence : WGM21&amp; WGM20 in TCCR2 <br />
<br />
Compare Output mode , Fast PWM mode.<br />
COM21 = 1; COM20 = 0 ( non-inverting mode ) <br />
<br />
TCNT2 inc or dec <br />
OCR2 compare with Timer/Counter<br />
when TCNT2 == OCR2 <br />
PWM output == OC2 ( PD2 ???), will go low until counter reach MAX. <br />
Clock source == CS22:0<br />
<br />
Frequency = Fclk/( N.256) <br />
== 16 x 2^20 /( 8 * 256) <br />
== 2^24 / ( 2^3 * 3^8 ) <br />
== 2^13 == 8K cycles <br />
*/<br />
#include &lt;avr/io.h&gt;<br />
#include &lt;avr/interrupt.h&gt;<br />
<br />
int OCR2APin = 11; <br />
int analogpin = 0;<br />
int dutyCycle = 0; <br />
<br />
#define bit_on(BYTE, BIT)&nbsp; BYTE |= 1 &lt;&lt; BIT;<br />
<br />
void setup() {<br />
&nbsp; pinMode ( analogpin, INPUT);<br />
&nbsp; pinMode ( OCR2APin, OUTPUT);<br />
&nbsp; // set dutycycle == 50 <br />
&nbsp; OCR2A = 128 ; <br />
<br />
&nbsp; // SET PRESCALE == 8 page 119 ( 16M / 8/ 256) == 7812 ( frequency&nbsp; )<br />
&nbsp; TCCR2B &amp;= 0xF0 ; // preserve 4 msb bits <br />
&nbsp;  TCCR2B |= _BV(CS21) ;&nbsp; //prescale = 8<br />
&nbsp; <br />
&nbsp; // SET MODE 3 ( waveform Generation, fast pwm ) page 117<br />
&nbsp; bit_on ( TCCR2A, WGM21) ;<br />
&nbsp; bit_on ( TCCR2A, WGM20) ;<br />
&nbsp; <br />
&nbsp; // SET COMPARE OUTPUT, FAST PWM MODE ( PAGE 118) <br />
&nbsp; // CLEAR OC2 ON COMPARE MATCH, non-inverting mode<br />
&nbsp; bit_on( TCCR2A, COM2A1);&nbsp;  <br />
&nbsp; <br />
&nbsp; // TIMER/COUNTER INTERRUPT MASK REGISTER (TIMSK) <br />
&nbsp; // SET OUTPUT COMPARE MATCH<br />
&nbsp; bit_on ( TIMSK2, OCIE2A) ; <br />
<br />
&nbsp; // START FAST PWM MODE <br />
&nbsp; bit_on( SREG, SREG_I);<br />
}<br />
<br />
void loop() {<br />
; <br />
}<br />
<br />
ISR( TIMER2_COMPA_vect) {<br />
&nbsp; int analog = analogRead( analogpin)/4;<br />
&nbsp; OCR2A = analog ;<br />
}</code><hr />
</div>I wonder if I code subtract analogRead (analogpin)/4 by 28?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>Snakub</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49048</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Battery Maintenance</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49032&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 30 Aug 2010 15:54:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have an old car Toyota model 1991, it usually give me a problem regarding battery maintenance, is anyone here can give me great tips on how to...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an old car Toyota model 1991, it usually give me a problem regarding battery maintenance, is anyone here can give me great tips on how to maintain car's battery. Thanks.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>kazmee</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49032</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>What gauge wire for batteries, motor, controller?</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49030&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 30 Aug 2010 15:00:45 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi! 
 
I'm converting a 1993 Ford Probe GT. Check out the conversion thread...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi!<br />
<br />
I'm converting a 1993 Ford Probe GT. Check out the conversion <a href="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/ford-probe-gt-conversion-high-school-46798.html" target="_blank">thread</a>.<br />
<br />
I have 45 Thundersky batteries. They are 3.2V and 160Ah each. I'll have them all connected in series for 160Ah at 144V. The pack will be used with a WarP9 and a Soliton1. I probably won't draw more than 500 or 600Amps from the pack, and that's only for a few seconds.<br />
<br />
So what gauge wire should I use? I have about 12ft of welding cable that looks to be 4/0AWG. Should I get more? Should I go for smaller 2/0AWG wire? I believe the wire coming out of the charger I have is 2/0AWG. Is welding cable a better way to go than battery cable?<br />
<br />
And the wire-to-lug connections; should they be crimped or soldered?<br />
<br />
Thanks everyone!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>james42</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49030</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Ceramic Heater Relay</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49014&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 30 Aug 2010 01:12:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I was just browsing through ebay checking out the possible relays i can use for my ceramic heater. I came across this... 
 
Potter & Brumfield...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I was just browsing through ebay checking out the possible relays i can use for my ceramic heater. I came across this...<br />
<br />
Potter &amp; Brumfield KUEP-3D15-110 Relay 110VDC 4 Pin<br />
<br />
Would this work. it's similar to the one the sell at <a href="http://www.evsource.com/tls_relays.php" target="_blank">here</a> ev source<br />
<ul><li>Manufacturer: Potter &amp; Brumfield</li>
<li>Model: KUEP-3D15-110</li>
<li>110VDC Coil</li>
<li>1/4HP, 120VAC</li>
<li>10A, 240VAC</li>
<li>10A, 150VDC</li>
<li>Used In Good Condition</li>
</ul><br />
<img src="http://www.ctr-surplus.com/lisa/ls11190-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>omonoid</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49014</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Precharge Diagram</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48941&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 28 Aug 2010 07:55:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I've been studying how precharging works and have deciding i want to use a 60 watt 120 v lightbulb (unless someones has a better bulb recomendation)...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I've been studying how precharging works and have deciding i want to use a 60 watt 120 v lightbulb (unless someones has a better bulb recomendation) and a relay so that when the key is in the first position the car precharges, and when it is in the second the contactor closes.<br />
<br />
My car is a 120 v setup and im still looking for a relay that does the job. Any suggestions would definitely help<br />
<br />
I am terrible at diagrams so sorry in advance<br />
<br />
<img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_pqtWpB7btpA/THjAi_zKNZI/AAAAAAAAByQ/GY1KnGILsD8/s800/Precharging%20Diagram.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
Hopefully you can read that. Is it right??<br />
<br />
Thanks for any feedback :)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>omonoid</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48941</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>broken shaft/15 miles into 1st test drive</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48918&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 27 Aug 2010 19:31:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My prior post is at this forum  under "Im so new to this"  .  
Well I got the car together and running:D with all the help from here .Thanks to all ....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My prior post is at this forum  under &quot;Im so new to this&quot;  . <br />
Well I got the car together and running:D with all the help from here .Thanks to all . But on my 1st run the shaft broke on the D&amp;D ES-15a, motor model#170-004-0003. I wasnt going fast or driving hard just regular driving on the flat ground. <br />
So I called wilderness EV  and as usual  they can help me but for $200 bucks.  Has anyone taken one of this D&amp;D electric motors  apart :confused:?  How hard is it to replace the armuatre shaft ? <br />
Any ideas would help this is getting to expensive !. thanxs</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>delivery boy</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48918</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Twin Motor Adapter for VW soon to be released</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48866&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 26 Aug 2010 17:29:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[RebirthAuto.com is soon going to be making it's newly designed twin motor adapter setup available.  We just thought we'd give you a sneak peek. ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>RebirthAuto.com is soon going to be making it's newly designed twin motor adapter setup available.  We just thought we'd give you a sneak peek.  Thanks.<br />
<br />
Seb<br />
<img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg225/rebirthauto/Classic%20VW%20Twin%20Motor/DSCN1111.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg225/rebirthauto/Classic%20VW%20Twin%20Motor/DSCN1093.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg225/rebirthauto/Classic%20VW%20Twin%20Motor/DSCN1100.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg225/rebirthauto/Classic%20VW%20Twin%20Motor/DSCN1104.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<img src="http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg225/rebirthauto/Classic%20VW%20Twin%20Motor/DSCN1118.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
If you want to see it go:<br />
<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUK3L2Z9QZo" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUK3L2Z9QZo</a></div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>rebirthauto</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48866</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>mechanical regenerative braking that will work in ANY vehicle</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48827&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 26 Aug 2010 02:10:05 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[got a clickie for ya :) 
 
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/hydraulic-hybrid2.htm 
 
It says this on the next page, but I don't know where they got...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>got a clickie for ya :)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://auto.howstuffworks.com/hydraulic-hybrid2.htm" target="_blank">http://auto.howstuffworks.com/hydraulic-hybrid2.htm</a><br />
<br />
It says this on the next page, but I don't know where they got their numbers (might be an interrnet source quoting an internet source...)<br />
<br />
 &quot;A gas/electric hybrid recovers 30 percent of braking energy, while a hydraulic hybrid can recover 70 percent&quot;<br />
<br />
This is basically just three common hydraulic components in an enclosed loop, a pump (geared onto your driveline, no matter what type it is... it could be rigged on ICE, AC, DC, even a bicycle), a low pressure storage tank, and a high pressure hydraulic accumulator (the bigger it is the more you can &quot;scavenge&quot; from brakes but the less &quot;braking power&quot; you would have on it. <br />
<br />
would cut down on the big draw you EV guys have when you start accelerating :)  <br />
<br />
The valving might be  a little weird, but the principle is sort of close to basic wiring 101...<br />
<br />
Pricey for a standalone system if you bought everything new, but all of this stuff could be done salvage a' la frankenswift, and the cost might get pretty reasonable going that route :)<br />
<br />
researching electric/hydraulic hybrid and found it, and I've seen a number of people show preference for A/C because of regenerative braking, and figured it was worth pointing out... <br />
<br />
regenerative braking can be done mechanically.<br />
Just food for thought ;)</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>Aelwero</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48827</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Some questions</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48804&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 25 Aug 2010 10:12:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi i know theres a few threads about these topics, ive read them, but im still a bit confused. Im a highschool student :) 
 
*Emergency Cutoff* 
I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi i know theres a few threads about these topics, ive read them, but im still a bit confused. Im a highschool student :)<br />
<br />
<b>Emergency Cutoff</b><br />
I know what the point of this is, but im looking for a cheap way of it. Maybe a pull switch down by the parking break. Im not sure how they work. Do i wire it to the battery cables to stop the current flow??<br />
<br />
<b>Precharging</b><br />
I homebuilt my controller using paul and sabrina's kit and it works great. Paul suggested precharging and explained it to me, but it would be great to know exactly what i need to buy for this to happen.<br />
<br />
<b>Fans</b><br />
I was thinking about installing a computer fan or two in my trunk battery box to ventilate the gas out a hole cut in my trunk, but i dont know the best method of doing so.<br />
<br />
I know this is alot of questions, but thanks in advanced to whoever helps me answer these</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>omonoid</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48804</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>aluminum wire last chance-tesseract</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48720&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Aug 2010 22:57:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hey guys I have this marvelous aluminum 4-0 guage house supply line ( left over from a housing rebuild) that I am dying to use for my small truck (...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hey guys I have this marvelous aluminum 4-0 guage house supply line ( left over from a housing rebuild) that I am dying to use for my small truck ( 9&quot; AMD motor 120v, curtis 1331c 500 amp,  #20 trojan t145's 28.8 kw I think!!). this stuff is the size of my thumb , new, and not that rigid......  with my house current being 120v x 200 amp service wouldn't that mean that this wire is rated at 24 kw? is that close enough? I guess I could wire it up and see if I have any heat or voltage issues?,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, and if not what guage would you use of the fine stranded vs. coarse copper stuff?  waddya think</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>lou-ace</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48720</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>wiring diagram</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48697&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 23 Aug 2010 01:02:46 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>well i finally got some1 possibly interested in helping me convert a car into electric but he is hesitant and tells me it wont work in Canada with...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>well i finally got some1 possibly interested in helping me convert a car into electric but he is hesitant and tells me it wont work in Canada with all the cold and what not and etc...<br />
<br />
so he is asking me for some wiring diagram or &quot;plan&quot; to wire possibly a geo metro or a hyundai accent<br />
<br />
does such a thing exist  by any chance ?<br />
<br />
thank you<br />
<br />
Chris</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>ragez0r</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48697</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>best gauge for aH in/out ?</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48642&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Aug 2010 15:55:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I am looking for some input on 'best' gauge for tracking my battery pack state of charge... tracking aH in/out since the old voltage drop style won't...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I am looking for some input on 'best' gauge for tracking my battery pack state of charge... tracking aH in/out since the old voltage drop style won't work for Li packs. I have been trying out a CycleAnalyst from ebikes.com with some success, but I would like to consider alternatives, especially one that might fit in the standard round mount.<br />
<br />
so.... any feedback of x-pert pro or other units that can handle a 120v Li battery pack? best source/price?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>dtbaker</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48642</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Proper setup for low speed high torque</title>
			<link>http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48624&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Aug 2010 01:41:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guy's I am a newbie and am looking for help. Basically i'm looking for a low speed high torque setup.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guy's I am a newbie and am looking for help. Basically i'm looking for a low speed high torque setup.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16">Technical Discussion</category>
			<dc:creator>wildacres00</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48624</guid>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>
