DIY Electric Car Forums - All EV Conversions and Builds

setup help for a newbie!

Rasta — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 04:53:35 GMT

Hi guys,

Yes i am a newbie from New Zealand and i am looking at doing my own ev.
Here is by thinking so far-

Donor car is a 2 door 1995 Toyota trueno (levin)
Adcanced DC L91-4003 or maybe FB1-4001A
96v running off 8v flooded lead batteries (this means ill need 12 batteries right?)

Thats about as far as iv got. Just a few more questions, is it better to have 12v or 8v batteries? and because you cant take flooded lead acid batteries past half way charge does this mean i would need to have double the batteries to get the performance im looking for?
I know there must be allot of posts like this out there but any ones help would be super sweet!

Peace and thank you for your time.

Senior Design Project

UCFdave — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 17:38:31 GMT

Hey Guys,

I'm a mechanical engineering student from UCF (University of Central Florida), my senior design project has been to build an electric sport bike, with the aim of making it cheaper, and having comprable (or better) range than the Brammo/Zero competition. Really a proof of concept - to improve market visibility to electric auto movement.

We've got an idea of where to start; Find a donor bike and use the frame/fork/wheels/brakes/etc and retro fit the electrical hardware into the bike, or use a donor bike frame as a starting point to build our own.

I've gotten some good advice from people, but I know this project is going to boil down to 3 things: the controller, batteries, and motor.

I've heard that Lead-Acid are easier and more affordable to work with, but the possibility of LiFeMgPO4 (or similar batteries) are tempting. Weight, physical dimensions, kwhr output will all be factors in the descision process.

As far as the controller goes I've been steered in the direction of the Alltrax 7245, although I'm seeing plenty of options from Alltrax; I'm just not sure where to start from.

Motors: I keep hearing about the Agni R95, although with a price of around $1400 this would eat up a lot of the total budget. I've seen other options like the Etek-r and the Perm PMG-132, I'm just not sure what the best bang for the buck would be.

One of the biggest issues I'm having right now is the battery situation; From what I've read so far, it seems like 72 volts is the sweet spot for operating voltage- that would mean 6 optima batteries.

Our team has a estimated budget of $3-4k USD. We have access to machine shops and are all mechanically inclined.

What are some good sources of info (other than this website) to help me educate myself in the finer aspects of a project such as this. In addition, since I will most likely have to buy most of components from the internet, where are some good places to order from. Thank you for your time,

UCFdave

my VW golf conversion, (video link)

EV_dub — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 10:36:22 GMT

A short video of my Converted Golf on the link below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9OIvCuUVDk

just a link to a posibility

Quadranut — Sun, 29 Aug 2010 23:55:53 GMT

http://greenbay.craigslist.org/bfs/1890810348.html

figured I would post this Maybe someone here can use it. I don't have the 750 right now

Tentative First Build...

karellen — Sun, 29 Aug 2010 01:32:04 GMT

Hello all!

I've had a conversion in the back of my mind for a long time now, and I'm just getting around to it, with the help of a possible donor car popping up recently. Now I get back to all these questions I had, and I need some help. :)

First off, the possible donor car is a 1970 Porsche 914, so I have a lot of other cars to look at for examples. However, I'd like to keep the purchasing of machined steel parts to a minimum, as the university I attend has a strong engineering department and I think I'll be able to get help with stuff like battery boxes and adaptor plates. Do you think this is alright? Will I be able to flesh out a DC motor to clutch/tranny adaptor plate alright? Are there resources for designs for cnc'ing one yourself?

Also, I was looking at the 192V 11" Kostov DC motor as a possible selection. Would this be foolish? My hope is to get fun speeds/accelerations out of it, and I'd like to get 40-50 miles range, more if possible (but unlikely it seems.) Finally, I'd be going lead acid, can't afford the LiFePO's.

If I left anything out, let me know! I need all the help I can get. Thanks!

Help via blog

rmacey — Sat, 28 Aug 2010 01:49:16 GMT

First, thanks to the folks to manage this site and to those who contribute. This has been a big help when I've posted questions. I am sure there are questions I should be asking and am not.

I'm starting to make a better attempt at using the Blog feature on this site to document my progess. If you are so inclined, I'd be very pleased if you would follow my progress and make suggestions about things I'm doing (wrong) or am not doing but should be. I'm posting pics and putting questions that are on my mind in my blog.

Kostov

gottdi — Sat, 28 Aug 2010 01:25:03 GMT

My Kostov 11" gets its new lightened flywheel and 2100# Empi Pressure plate, clutch disk, throw bearing and gland nut. I need new pressure plate mounting bolts but so far the trial fit is perfect. Nice to see that. We also picked up some parts for the Buggy like a new body to pan gasket and some steering components and new soft brake lines for the rear and new ball joint rubber covers to replace the ones that went bad in the sun. The pan was sitting in the sun for a couple years and they are not designed to live in the sun year in and year out. Things are looking good and moving forward. After the Kaylor test we will be putting in the Kostov for now as the Bus will need more time before it's ready for the electrics.

Pete :)

http://greenev.zapto.org/63ev/63_EV/Kostov.html
http://greenev.zapto.org/63ev/63_EV/Blog/Blog.html

Attached Images

DSCF0003.jpg (96.9 KB)

Aux Battery question

rmacey — Sat, 28 Aug 2010 00:31:07 GMT

I'm in the middle of converting a 1985 VW Cabriolet. I'm picking an auxillary battery. Is this battery ok (see link)? It's an xtreme 12v designed for lawn mowers I think. Since I don't need it for cranking the engine, I thought I could use a smaller battery giving me more room under the hood. http://www.batteriesplus.com/product..._78/11_78.aspx

If it's not ok, suggestions appreciated. Thx

High Torque/Low Speed Puller Using An Auto. Rearend

Jamie b — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 13:58:04 GMT

Hello All, New to the site. Starting to build a High Torque, Low Speed (Max. Speed Around 15 MPH) Vehicle using an Automobile Rearend. Want to power with an Electric Motor (24 volt?) Any helpful advice would greatly be appreciated. Thank You Jamie b

Planning 1996 Chevy Cavalier conversion

Wesley J — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 19:28:44 GMT

Hi guys,

I'm following the recommended method to get this started. Here we go.

Your skill level with auto mechanics and fabrication

Very high.

The range you are hoping to get (how many miles/charge)

Commute to work and back, 30-40 kms (20-25 miles)

What level of performance you are hoping to get

No real expectations other than there is one section of road I need to go 80 km/hr (50 mph)

How much money you are willing to put into your project

I guess <$5000 would be optimal

What parts you've already considered, if any.

Nothing really, I'm just starting out reading. Oh, the car, I have that.

A bit of background on me. I'm a 30 something year old Engineer working in the Oil and Gas industry in Western Canada. I live in Calgary, Alberta so cold weather performance is definately an issue for me. I do have multiple vehicles so in the dead of winter I can use an alternative, what do you guys call it, dino drinker.

I have a well equipped shop including the following plus a bunch more:
TIG, MIG, Plasma
English wheel, brake, bead roller, shrinker stretcher etc
Metal lathe, mill
etc

I've spent most of the last few decades building cars and motorcycles. I built the chassis and suspension of my '70 F-100 from scratch as well as the suspension/underpinnings of my '67 Mustang which is my current daily driver. Have built/modified many ICEs and trannies.

The '96 Cavalier has been my daily driver for years so I was looking to re-purpose it as an EV test. It currently gets about 7.5 L/100 kms (31 mpg) in town. But, I love the idea of EV commuters etc etc.

So, other than devouring the vast amount of knowledge here, what equipment etc would you recommend.

Cheers,

Wes

Motor per wheel?

Aelwero — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 18:21:39 GMT

What's the advantages and disadvantages of running a single motor at each wheel?

I'm thinking one "supply system" (controller) with output to all four motors, with individual contactors on each motor so that any one can be individually "shut off"... (for two main reasons... first being efficiency, sort of like how modern ICE's shut off half their cylinders at speed, and the other is for off road purposes... It's not uncommon to have one or more wheels leave the ground)

How big would the motors need to be at a minimum if there were 4 drive motors and max speed expectations were very low (so long as torque is kept fairly high)... say 55MPH top speed with a 20 mile range on cheap car batteries for starters?

my newbie questions :)

Aelwero — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 01:17:02 GMT

HI :) I'm the new guy...

My "I'm considering it" vehicle is a 1971 Jeep. It's a DJ-5B, and AM General actually made a handful of them electric originally, so :)

My automotive experience is pretty healthy, but all ICE based... my fabricating ability is purty darned good, but more along the lines of macgyver than chip foose and overhaulin...

My job is a bit fluid, and I can't say "X miles of commute" at all.

mmm... what else? oh yeah, expectations... I ain't got any :)
currently, my jeep does not go over 50MPH... it physically can, but it doesn't... very dangerous! The wheelbase on it is tiny, it's a brick (aerodynamically.. weight wise, it's pretty light on it's feet, and has a LOT of room to lighten up) with wheels, and at speed, the air becomes a very physical thing :) hence the consideration for electric... it's already got an edge in being a "compact" vehicle.

Ok.. so my newb questions... just gonna toss em out there and get em out the way right off the bat ;)

Hydraulic drive trains? the idea makes a TON of sense from a newb perspective...

er, transmissions? why would an electric motor need a transmission? Is it unfair to think that the same function could be performed by varying the voltage? like a high voltage dimmer switch :) from my limited understanding of electric motors, they have torque down to zero... is that wrong? I'm assuming it's an issue with current and loss, but assuming is bad so I'm asking ;)

Motor per wheel vs. single motor? Since I have a Jeep, i have to consider my ground clearance, and a motor per wheel, with the gearing at the top of the wheel, would eliminate a VAST majority of the things that are under my Jeep! this, like hydraulics, makes a TON of sense for a newb :)

So I reckon that's a fair start... mechanically speaking I could do the whole thing with what I know now, and electrically, I could manage, but to be cliche, I'm "thinking outside the box" before I start getting into details....

Generator to direct-power EV for distance

m38mike — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 20:57:17 GMT

I've got an opportunity to showcase EV's in an unusual forum in two years, but I need some advice about how to get it done. I own the Electro-Willys, a 1952 Willys military Jeep that has a LA 144vdc pack and a WarP11 motor. In 2012 the Military Vehicle Preservation Association (MVPA) is hosting a convoy up the Alaska Highway from Dawson BC to Anchorage AK to commemorate the construction of that highway during WW2. I made that trip with a Jeep many many years ago. I'd like to do it with my Electro-Willys. I've had several members of the MVPA encourage me to look into it.

So here are some of my challenges:
1. What size generator do I need to power my EV with a trailer at a top speed of 50 mph? Continuous service?

2. How do I convert the typical generator output from 120/240VAC to something like 120-160 VDC?

3. I'm thinking that the generator will be in the trailer, and that I'll use 2/0 welding cable to bring the power to a contactor then to the controller. The generator contactor would be parrallel to the pack contactor. Only one contactor could be closed at one time, so the controller would receive power either from the pack or the generator, but not both. Does this sound reasonable? problems?

4. Are there other configurations that would be more efficient or more effective?

5. Would it be better to have the generator feed about 170VDC into the pack, and use the pack as a buffer between the generator and controller?

I've got a little over a year to design and build this long-distance-configuration. I'd like to take some 100-1000 mile test runs before I run it to Alaska. Maybe push it to failure to see where my weak points are. I'm looking for all the help I can find to make this a reality.

E-Buggy update

gottdi — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 04:31:29 GMT

Just another update. Got the Buggy body off the old crusty pan. It was one hell of a job and most of the bolts needed cut off to remove them. I got lucky on some of the ones that would have been near impossible to cut off had they been rusted shut. We can now begin the process of sanding and prepping the body for paint and installing on the new pan that is just sitting and waiting for a new body.

Pete :)

http://greenev.zapto.org/63ev/63_EV/Buggy_Pics.html

Attached Images

	DSCF0019.jpg (79.5 KB)
	DSCF0021.jpg (85.0 KB)

my ontario conversion EH?

OMT — Sun, 22 Aug 2010 04:48:56 GMT

so heres my conversino so far. its a 99 hyundai accent gsi conversion. the car weight stock was about 2050 lbs, and in my opinion had very good aurodynamic potential which is why i chose it. the motor is a 9" X 12" forklift drive motor, with about 5 degrees advancement. the estimated end cost is only about 3000$ CND including a laptop that goes in the dashboard for motor/controller temp,rpm,amps...ect

i got the drive motor, the pump motor, all cabling, and a lot of contactors from the forklift for 55$ cnd hehehehe :)

so heres some pics ill update on my first test drive which will probobly be in about 3 days woohoo!

this car was pretty rusted and i spent alone about a month of weekends/ odd days getting rid of all the rust, so the clean blackness of the suspention was once, before the hard work a peice of rotten metal. im doing a full on auro mod, with no sideview mirrors, and cameras instead, front bumper block, full underpan, and more i estimate about 75-100 km range

thanks for all the help you guys have given me in answering my questions!