If you need help programming the Curtis 1238 on a AC system, email me at cruisin@live.com I can also help you with any problems you may be having with the operation of the AC system.
A lot of others do it. Sevcon for one. And those guys change the firmware in the handheld so it doesn't work with different models of their controllers. A real PITA......but I'll be damned if I'm going to shell out $450-$500 to change settings in a controller that I already bought and paid for. No other controller out there forces you to do so........
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elec...gramming-curtis-controller-15.html#post465186I have a Curtis 1238 controller and had trouble programming it. The software would never connect.
The problem ended up being the buffer settings for my USB to RS-232 serial converter. Go to device manager, then COM ports. Right click on your adapter and go to properties. On the port settings tab, click advanced. Then turn down any buffers as low as they can go and Especially turn down any delay that might be there. Then it should work.
I tried three different USB-serial cables. One was from Radio Shack, a GigaWare piece of crap that kept giving me the bluescreen. I think that the driver just did not support win7. (By the way, the Curtis software does work on win7 just fine.) The second was a Prolific chip based converter and I still was not able to make it work. The third was an FTDI chip based converter. This is the one that I was able to make work, after I turned the buffers and delay as low as they could go.
That's interesting coming from someone who want's to "help" us by selling us over priced programmers and software to use the controller we already paid for. No one is lying to be important, whatever that means, we are trying to find ways to program OUR controllers without being ripped off. I understand your position as a vendor but you aren't exactly helping your potential sales with your current attitude.Its time people stop lying trying to be important on these forums as our pupose should be to help each other.
I guess I'm a failure as a scammer since I don't sell any products I provided links to the information that I found, I didn't just make it up.Lastly, the other scammer that posted here, has a reputation of trying to correct everybody without the knowledge of the subject matter, and ALWAYS HAS TO BE RIGHT. He knows who he is. I noticed that nobody has come forward with proof of the working home brewed interface using the 06 software. I tried to tell you it wont work, yet the scammer keeps complaining about a overprice programmer and how everybody has made a cludge work. Both you guys need to step up to the plate and stop lying to feel important as a scammer. If the shoe fits, wear it.
Again, I sell nothing so I'm not a scammer, and I just touched the top of my head and didn't stick myself, so I guess I'm not a pin head eitherYou shouldnt tell others they are wrong because somebody else says they did it, unless you can VERIFY. Dont be a SCAMMER or a PIN HEAD.
I have a few questions cruisin:
1) Are you using a brake pot for input to pin 27 to control regen with a second pedal, which when depressed beyond a certain range then depresses the pedal for mechanical brakes? If so, what do you see as the advantage of doing it that way rather than using the Neutral_Braking parameter and accelerator pedal to control regen?
2) What parameter settings do you recommend for maximum vehicle acceleration?
3) What Base_Speed parameter setting are you using, and what is your pack voltage?
I'm using the Neutral_Braking parameter, Regen Limiting Map, Regen_Current_Limit, and accelerator pedal to control regen. The parameters I see that would seem to effect acceleration are Accel_Rate, Gear_Soften, and Drive_Current_Limit. Would be nice to compare notes to see if I've missed something.
What do you expect to see from altering the base speed?The manual describes how to set base speed. I think I'll try it and see what value the controller posts for base speed. I expect it would depend on pack voltage.
I was thinking of putting another pot in parallel with the throttle, that way I think I can effectively adjust the amount of regen by changing the off throttle "zero" value.I would think one advantage of using a separate pedal and brake input as you do for regen would be that you could set it up fairly high, 70% or so like you use, and most of the time you wouldn't go that high but when you need to brake quickly you would use more, adding to your mechanical braking and reducing stopping distance. I've limited it to 55% using the accelerator pedal.
I don't find it as difficult as you portray it. Most of the time I am supplying current from the batteries to the controller, just varying how much to control speed, or applying regen to slow for traffic or stop. I usually only coast when there is an opportunity on a slight grade with little traffic, or see a light change from far off and there is no traffic to impede by coasting. In those cases, glancing at the current meter once in a while, which is at eye level on the windshield post about 1 1/2 ft from my head, is no problem. On larger grades I have to apply some regen to stay within the speed limit. I find there isn't really much opportunity to coast, usually due to traffic.Its true that you CAN coast with 0 amps, but you you need to find the precise point by watching your amp meter to do so. NOT A GOOD IDEA.
Will post it here. I'm not expecting much difference, but want to check.Let me know how your changes to the base speed effects acceleration and other things.
Thanks. Looks very clean. Where did you get those Hall throttles?I have added a picture of MY pedal assembly which turned out to be the best of all the designs I have come with. VERY VERY smooth in both acceleration and braking and extremely controllable with precision.
Do you mean the brake pot you use has an integral switch, or are you using a separate switch, or the original switch that was in the car?Use a brake pot 3 wire with switch so that you can hook up the switch for the brake light, otherwise your light will not come on until Disk Bracks are used.
What are you talking about here? The ksi? HPEVS included that relay with the kit, a solid state automotive type.If you are using a cheap AC mechanical relay for the 1238, throw it away and get a SSR DC relay off EBAY for about $12.00.
I agree on all points.I don't find it as difficult as you portray it. Most of the time I am supplying current from the batteries to the controller, just varying how much to control speed, or applying regen to slow for traffic or stop. I usually only coast when there is an opportunity on a slight grade with little traffic, or see a light change from far off and there is no traffic to impede by coasting. In those cases, glancing at the current meter once in a while, which is at eye level on the windshield post about 1 1/2 ft from my head, is no problem. On larger grades I have to apply some regen to stay within the speed limit. I find there isn't really much opportunity to coast, usually due to traffic.
They look like Kelly units, though Kelly gets them from some other supplier.Thanks. Looks very clean. Where did you get those Hall throttles?
He's probably using the micro switch in the Hall throttles.Do you mean the brake pot you use has an integral switch, or are you using a separate switch, or the original switch that was in the car?
Can't you just use the throttle micro switch to turn on the brake lights when off throttle?That's a downside of using the accelerator pedal for regen. I sometimes have to touch my brake pedal to turn on the brake lights while regening to a stop if someone is close behind, but it is normally not an issue. I've been asking HPEVS for about 6 months or more to add some code to send a signal from a D.O. port on the controller which could be used to drive a relay to turn on brake lights. They have said they will do it, but they are always too busy to get around to it. I may try out your third pedal design for that reason.
I don't see how a simple on/off switch could work. Throttle position for regen varies, as it depends on relative motor rpm and wheel rpm. The wheels have to be driving the rotor, and that occurs at different motor rpm and hence different throttle positions depending on vehicle speed and gearing. Such a switch works fine on a brake pedal like cruisin uses since when you depress the pedal, no matter how much, you are applying some regen and the brake lights come on. Doesn't work that way on the accelerator pedal.Maybe you could switch it to a NC unit? Or mount a NC switch that contacts the throttle arm when off throttle. Of course it would have to be switched by ignition as well or your brake lights will be on when parked.
SSR's fail shorted, and cheap ones are not reliable. I'll look for a replacement.Yes, its the relay that is provided and its not SS. Its not even DC. When they fail, they are in the closed position. For $12.00, it isnt worth taking a chance.
You don't want your brake light to come on with light to moderate regen, and your strongest regen will be when you are off the pedal, or nearly so. When I want to stop quickly my foot is off the pedal. I think you could find a position for a switch that would work well most of the time. I can't say it's been an issue for me but I have my regen set a little lower than you and I don't usually drive in heavy traffic.I don't see how a simple on/off switch could work. Throttle position for regen varies, as it depends on relative motor rpm and wheel rpm. The wheels have to be driving the rotor, and that occurs at different motor rpm and hence different throttle positions depending on vehicle speed and gearing. Such a switch works fine on a brake pedal like cruisin uses since when you depress the pedal, no matter how much, you are applying some regen and the brake lights come on. Doesn't work that way on the accelerator pedal.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/ssr-relay-failure-fire-no-fun-51178.htmlSSR's dont fail shorted. When they fail, which is rare, they fail open as the LED has burned out.