I am considering a baldor premium efficient 60 hp electric motor a friend has access to...but it weighs 830lbs! here are the basic specs:
60HP
230/460 V
FL Amps 135/67.8
My question is, if I put this into an old FJ-40 w/ a 4 speed manual transmission and 4 wheel drive (similar to a jeep body style)...w/ a curb weight 3200 lbs (4000lbs w/ the motor), will it have enough power to handle the hilly terrain i live in and modest highway speeds? how will it be on batteries?
please give me some feedback if this is a good motor for my project...THANKS IN ADVANCE!!
i checked it out! thanks...actually, i saw another post somewhere that you referred to it and i looked it up earlier ...but, that motor is 50 HP (ok, close enough) but it has 362 amps and 72 Volts, so I don't know how those differences will compare to my motor (not to mention mine weighs 340 lbs more!!!) ...so what will happen in my case with those differences????
well find out how much you can make by selling it for him, be a good friend, and split the profits, and use your share to buy EV parts, not industrial parts.
My goal is to find something that will work on the cheap. Even if i tried to resell etc, i am going to fork over much more cash to buy something ideal. I'm wondering if this motor could still manage hilly terrain, highway speeds with reasonable battery usage.
ADEYO
Ok going to try and keep this basic. You really need to figure out what voltage you are going to run (motor and controller) The higher the voltage the more batteries you will need, and lith. batts. are not cheap... So with that in mind, that is why i choose to go with the Curtis 1238 controller.. I am only gone to run 30-32 200amp hour lith batts.. You allso need to look at motors, not just the hp and amp, but the continuous rating. Like Kevins motor is 50hp CONTINUOUS unlike the ac50 says 67-70 hp, sounds good, but it is only 20hp continuous.. Big difference.. I was originaly planning on using the ac50, but i live in Tucson AZ, it is 108 today, I feel that motor would not push my extended, loaded 1999 sonoma pickup. I am buildin a little bigger motor and building a water jacket for the housing. So since i am using the 1238 curtis controller with a output 70 rms volts, I need to rewind the motor for 70 volts..I hope this helps a bit more.
Just installed the trans and motor in the truck today. Need to build the water housing and rewind stator..
Thank you both. ...my motor is a 60 HP continuous. Would i need to rewind to another voltage?? or could i leave this as is. Seems like this motor would be a strong performer, but i dont want to change it...but run it how it was designed. Here is a spec sheet...
Since this is a dual voltage motor, you could use either 340 volts DC into an industrial inverter (240 volt motor wiring)
or 680 volts DC into an inverter (480 volt motor wiring)
you should have 177 FT LBS torque (239 nm) at nominal current, and with the right inverter, 3 to 4x more.
What does the original engine output?
The Wavesculptor controller would be good if you don't want to attempt to modify an industrial inverter, but there are other low voltage 3 phase controllers if you get it rewound for lower voltage.
Don't know about anybody else, but I use 50 sealed lead acid batteries in series for 600 volts.
Yeah thats my destroyed controller you linked to Ivansgarage.
You'll be happy to know my replacement controller is just a day away from being tested in my van.
Speaking of custom high voltage controller, it has been done before with very good results. Etischer on this forum is probably the best example. If i'm not mistaken he's had his custom controller going for a little more than 3 years.
Others like acmotor on the AEVA forums have had success with standard industrial VFDs driving standard industrial induction motors, no modifications needed.
So it is possible. Ideal, probably not but possible
adeyo: the motor in question should have no problems at all moving your vehicle under nominal ratings
Thanks! ...what kind of range do you get? what are the amp ratings of each of the batteries in that series?? also, I hope your new controller works out! I'll follow that closely
also, i called topeka electric motor and they were very helpful. it turns out, the ac50 motor that is in the silverado isn't the "ac50" that is a low horsepower ac motor from the golf cart company. they said it is actually a baldor 50 hp continuous ac motor, made specifically to their specs.
My batteries are 18 Ah, so all in all about 10 kWhr. Range is probably something like 10 miles. I didn't really pay full price for the batteries (or anything else) so it's not really a big deal, it's just an experiment of mine really. I might get lithium someday, but that won't be for a while.
My new controller is working, I tried it out yesterday. No explosions. A few bugs to work out with it but all in all it's going well. (just for the record, the old one worked for one year without problem. It only blew because of my own silly ideas that I didn't think through)
Just personally, if you want a much eaiser conversion process, I'd get a smaller motor. Again something like 30 HP should be more than enough. My van is 8000 LBS with a 30 HP motor, and I've had it up to 45 MPH, and I believe it can go up to 60 MPH. I used to have a 15 HP motor in it, the acceleration wasn't as good, neither was the top speed but it did work.
Also, I don't really know your personal prefrence or experience, but a DC system would be alot eaiser. AC can be just as pricey unless you do make your own controllers,(not easy) and it can be alot more difficult especially since you still have some programming to do even if you buy a controller
Thanks for the reply. I've definitely thought about dc. ...but when it comes down to it, i want to get components that i will be able to use in my final vehicle, whatever that may be. The motor is new under warranty, is a super efficient and retails on baldors website for $8k ...I'm getting it for a little over $1k, so I figure it's worth it. Not paying for a donar vehicle. So really, cost will be the controller and the batteries. (a little other misc.) Just don't know if I'll ever get range out of a high voltage motor that is this heavy.??? Hoping it will work somehow. I'm willing to pay for a good controller -especially if i can use it if i ever replace the motor.
Yes, you seem to be correct. I was extrapolating from the specs on my 240V 2HP Fuji/GE drive, which allows 200-400 VDC. My 7.5 HP Toshiba G3 drive specifies the bus voltage range to be 395 to 720 VDC. The 680 VDC you stated is the peak voltage of a 480 VAC sine wave.
50 12V batteries topped off and charging at 14.4V is 720 VDC. At maximum current draw, they might go as low as 10V each, which is 500V. That's for lead-acid, but for Lithium the same principles apply.
Good luck to the OP on his project. I think the 25 HP motor for $675 might be a good choice. The 30 HP drive at $1450 is also probably ideal. You can't go too far wrong on those components, and making your own high power drive is a major project which can be dangerous, frustrating, and costly.
The battery pack is the biggest (and heaviest and most expensive) part of the project. 24 x 12V 105 A-H lead-acid batteries will be at least $2000 and weigh 1500 lb, and will optimistically give a range of 48 miles, but more likely 20-30. Personally, that's what I would do. For a total cost of $4125 you'd have an EV that might need little maintenance for a year. Then you would have enough experience to decide on a replacement battery pack which would probably be at least $6000 but would last 5 years or more. The biggest piece of the puzzle is the actual W-hr/mile (I used 300) which will depend on overall efficiency, weight, aerodynamics, rolling resistance, and driving habits.
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