[Jason Lattimer]

Hey I was wondering, does anybody know anything about this motor.

It is on the Kelly controller webpage. States it works with a 15" Buick wheel, has disk brakes and is good for 160kph.http://kellycontroller.com/car-hub-m...7kw-p-711.html

According to the website, it is good for 72 volts and the controller they suggest pairing with it is good for 400 amps for 1 minute and 200 amps continuously.
Should be good for 38 horsepower for 1 minute if I did my math right.

[Jason Lattimer]

O.K pic didn't work so here goes again.

[major]

Originally Posted by Jason Lattimer

http://kellycontroller.com/car-hub-m...7kw-p-711.html

According to the website, it is good for 72 volts and the controller they suggest pairing with it is good for 400 amps for 1 minute and 200 amps continuously.
Should be good for 38 horsepower for 1 minute if I did my math right.

Those look like about 18 AWG phase leads, maybe 16. What'd you think? 200 Amps???? Motor spec says 7 kW. I'm thinking maybe 1.5 kW continuous, about 2 hp. But it fits a Buick wheel

[Jason Lattimer]

Yes I know, it is confusing to say the least. Here is a kit that they sell. For 799 dollars if it works it might work for a low weight reverse trike.








96V/120V Dual Car Hub Motor Kit

Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Price: $3,899.00

Weight : 166.00 lbs
In stock

Provide free disc brake.

The top speed can arrive at 160km/hr with 96V system.

The kit can work for 96V Lead Acid Batteries or 96V Lithium Batteries.
Please note the kit can work with 120V Lead Acid Batteries, but with 120V Lithium Batteries it may report overvoltage fault.

For 96V System:
KBL12401I(120V 400A Regen)*2
The assembly*1
Car Hub Motor(12-inch)*2
F9607-96V/7A Charger (110VAC Input)*1
Throttle*1
PC RS232 cable*1
USB to RS232 Converter*1
Control box*1
Kelly 96Volt Charge Meter*1
Ampere meter*1

Can do regenerative braking.
Best for car.
Can upgrade to HWC4B Series 96V/12A smart charger with $199.
Please note charger input voltage, 110VAC or 220VAC.
110VAC Input: F9607-96V/7A Charger
220VAC Input: F9607-96V/7A Charger


Can upgrade to 120V System with paying price difference $200.
Upgrade the following items:
HWC4B Series 120V/8A Charger (110VAC Input)*1
Kelly 120Volt Charge Meter*1

[dexion]

Having destroyed and ripped apart a 6kw hub motor (on my lithium evd.) Let me explain the weakness of these motors.

If you look closely you will see all the wiring going into the axle of the hub. At that point is where the wires melt together (on the cheaper chinese hub motors I worked with.) There is just no good way to cool the wires at that point. I melted my hall sensor wiring together at that point with 700 lbs (bike and 2 riders) going up hill at 40mph in 80F weather. Its a fairly easy fix. One must disasemble the motor and replace the wiring with something much higher rated (insulation) than what is there. But ultimately (unless you shut down the motor when it gets hot) it may happen again and again.

I would love to get hub motors it would simplify any conversion but it looks like they all have this weekness. However, Jack R is getting a set from Chry for a smartcar conversion. So perhaps we will see better quality at work and the problem will be solved.

The above motor looks like the one that a place here in Ann arbor uses for their scooter. They replace the hall sensor wires with high temp ones before they even put it on the bike. That takes care of the problem but their bikes are 700lbs with 2 riders and the bike itself. Not 2000 lbs.

There is no reason aside from cooling that a hub motor wouldnt work in your application as long as you understand its failure mode and its for a light weight car. Acceleration however will be marginal with 2 of them now if you did 4...

But ultimately a mars or D&D even would work for light weight cars and an altrex controller. But it really depends on your application.

[Jason Lattimer]

Thanks for the input. I think that the best thing to do would be to use a small motor separate from the wheel in case the motor needs to be made bigger. It looks like a wonderful idea from a packaging perspective, but when you tell me of the problems inherent in the design it looks less appealing.

[AussieRav4]

I would like to know more on your thoughts on this hub motor.
I'm toying with the idea of using these to power a Toyota Rav4 conversion.

I do agree with dexion on the cooling aspect of the cables. this is a particular concern of mine as i live in Australia where the summers can be good and hot.

knowing that my car might be approximately 1200kg [2650 pounds] I'm now wondering if my thought on the use of these motors might be a little optimistic. I was toying with buying 4 of them for my car to keep the whole AWD system going.

I'm still in research mode on my plans so I'm looking for the best information sources i can find.

[Salty9]

Looks similar to: http://electrichubcap.creativesystem....com/weel.html

[PStechPaul]

I looked at their test curve data and I think there is something wrong with the readings - or the motor itself.



I added the column with the product of volts and amps which should equal watts, but it's a bit off. However what really stands out is the very low efficiency at low torque output. There are fixed losses of more than 1000W at all loads at nominal RPM. I'm not that familiar with BLDCs but using a 2HP 3 phase motor, the total power used by the DC-DC converter, the VFD, and the motor itself, is about 5 amps at 24V or 120 watts. For a 7kW 10HP motor it should be no more than 5 times that, or 600W.

I realize that it may be an unusual condition to run the motor at 1300 RPM under such low torque conditions, but even the best efficiency of about 83% is not impressive. And $800 seems a lot to pay for a 10HP motor.

[jeremyjs]

It seems like many have tried high powered hub motors, and to date, all have failed. The problem is, everyone who's tried it seems to simply abandon it without giving the reason, so people/companies keep trying. I have to ask. For what. If it's such an issue keep it inboard and connect it to the wheel with an axle.

One theory I've heard is that the motor bearings simply can't take that kind of load, but, like I've said, all that have tried and failed have been curiously quiet about why. So no one, but those that have tried it, seem to know the actual answer.