[mizlplix]

Happy fathers day to all us Dads. If we can scold ourselves, we can take a pat on the back too. Take a long look at our children/grandchildren and appreciate what they are. One of lifes truly great joys.


Didnt get much done today. Cut battery box pieces. Measured and diagrammed the motor mounts again. Darn, how i hate myself for correcting myself all the time.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a decent throttle pot? Some say the curtis pb6, some say the pb8, but I am looking for something better. I am going to drive the tires off of this and dont want to skimp or make do...

Miz

[RE Farmer]

Originally Posted by mizlplix

Happy fathers day to all us Dads. If we can scold ourselves, we can take a pat on the back too. Take a long look at our children/grandchildren and appreciate what they are. One of lifes truly great joys.


Didnt get much done today. Cut battery box pieces. Measured and diagrammed the motor mounts again. Darn, how i hate myself for correcting myself all the time.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a decent throttle pot? Some say the curtis pb6, some say the pb8, but I am looking for something better. I am going to drive the tires off of this and dont want to skimp or make do...

Miz

I would suggest getting a used Hall-effect pedal from one of the late-model cars like the BMW mini; BMW has been using this type of pedal since the late 1990's. I've seen them on Ebay for less than a PB6.

(Edit) I don't recall the exact details but BMW's pedals also use two signals to prevent errant (uncommanded) power signals, 0-5V for throttle position and a second 1-3V (I think) to verify that the pedal position corresponds to the original 0-5V signal.

[JRP3]

Do you have the means to reprogram the controller for hall effect?
I'll be interested in seeing how your water cooling for the motor turns out, but I don't think motor heat has ever been an issue for the HPEVs systems considering the limited power of the controllers. Of course you're in the desert so...

[mizlplix]

The supplier of my AC50/controller has tweaked the programming a little for me to start with. (Thx AL)

But I plan to get the software and Data link as I have a seven year old "stupid" lap top in my shop that I used to program a timing computer on a previous car. It will be perfect for this.


I am a 60 year old desert dweller and am very aware of vehicle heat issues and believe there is no such thing as overkill. LOL

I am interested as to the differences between dry and water. It will be entertaining.

I am more concerned about that motor air intake facing forwards, hanging open 2 feet behind the front axle and so close to the ground...dirt...water...



I have a front motor mount plate that has a 6" diameter flange on it so I can clamp on a 6" I.D. flex tube and get air up high under the hood.

Miz

[mizlplix]

Some progress. This is the rough unpainted front crossmember/ motor mount. It sets on my original frame mounts. It incorporates a 6" flange for a flex tube to run the motor intake air up high out of the dirt and wet.



Tomorrow, I plan to put my speed o gears and drive cable spindle in the trans. that will allow me to permanently mount the power unit and then make a cardboard template of the mid mount at the bell housing.

Next week the drive-shaft gets cut down. Mid mounts made and controller mounted so wiring can begin. I have to cut open my existing harness to redo it from ICE to EV configuration. The controller harness is awesome as-is.

<He smiles as he types> MIZ

[mizlplix]

OK, More progress. Saturday was good to me. I was able to get in 8 Hrs. of work before I was driven inside at 104 Degrees. It will be 110 by this afternoon, tomorrow and tuesday.


This is what it looks like sitting in the car permanently. I am making the mid-mounts at the bellhousing in this Pic.

The transmission speedo gears are installed and everything is bolted down.



When I look inside that motor and see the tiny clearance between the armature and fields, I can not help but wonder what dust and moisture would do over time. This is the plan to keep clean air supplied to the motor.

A 6" duct to put the air intake up high under the hood out of the dirt and water from the road....Maybe an air filter too... Or am I just paranoid?

OK, I did get the low and High voltage manual switches installed on the deck between the seats and the clutch linkage almost done.

I guess I have put it off long enough...The dreaded battery boxes are next.

Miz

[Tatsushige]

Being a Motor Rewinder when I was young we had a lot of motors that we burnt out because water or dirt got in the things and either shorted em, or got between the rotor and stator and jammed em... I would put an air filter on if it is not going to be protect any other way.

[mizlplix]

Hi Tat: i am currently lookingfor a decent 6" ducted fan to go inside the flex duct to assure an adequate air flow. Especially when there is an air cleaner.

An AC50 has a small radial fan at the drive end. It depends on the ram air effect of driving to assist it. A tube blocks that air and must be compensated for.

Miz

[JRP3]

Certainly a ram effect would help but my mid engined car certainly has very little if any and motor heat has never been an issue, even in 90F temps. The Curtis controllers are harder to keep cool than the motors. I agree you'll need some assist to overcome the restriction of ducting and filter, plus having a blower will cool the motor better at lower speeds and when stopped.

[Tatsushige]

Originally Posted by mizlplix

Hi Tat: i am currently lookingfor a decent 6" ducted fan to go inside the flex duct toassure anadequate air flow. Especially when there is an air cleaner.

An AC50 has a small radial fan at the drive end. It depends on the ram air effect of driving to assist it. A tube blocks that air and must be compensated for.

Miz

mmmmm just thinking, are you going to have a intake on the hood like a Cobra or Subaru WRX or something ??

I have a idea .. but need to know when your hood will look like