[DIYguy]

Originally Posted by toddshotrods

Actually, I would prefer having reverse in the transmission, to simplify the motor connections (no reversing contactor, etc)

+1 I'm thinking the same thing. This stuff is a pain for reverse.

Originally Posted by toddshotrods

- with the big DC motor we have. Beside the extra gear, that's one of the benefits of running it, over a Gear Vendor's OD. I think the 'Glide also provides a bigger split.

Actually, I don't see how it would remove the benefit of a GV. . . . unless you got a real high rear gear, maybe. The glide gives under drive 1.76:1 or 1.8:1 (cant remember exactly) in low, plus 1:1 in high. The GV would overdrive this by 22%. So, my preference would be the Glide with the GV on the back. This would be similar to what Metric is doing. . with the Lenco + GV, except half the length. (of course he has a double OD, . . + the LEnco reverse like mine)

[JRP3]

Miz was probably referring to our AC motors when talking about electronic reversing. I agree it's not worth it with series DC.

[DIYguy]

Originally Posted by JRP3

Miz was probably referring to our AC motors when talking about electronic reversing. I agree it's not worth it with series DC.

Ahh, ok. Thanks for that JR. I didn't think of that.

[toddshotrods]

Originally Posted by DIYguy

...Actually, I don't see how it would remove the benefit of a GV. . . . unless you got a real high rear gear, maybe. The glide gives under drive 1.76:1 or 1.8:1 (cant remember exactly) in low, plus 1:1 in high. The GV would overdrive this by 22%. So, my preference would be the Glide with the GV on the back. This would be similar to what Metric is doing. . with the Lenco + GV, except half the length. (of course he has a double OD, . . + the LEnco reverse like mine)

My brain might not be working right because I've been up almost all night working, but I was referring to the fact that the Glide has a bigger percentage split between the 1.76 or 1.82 1st and 1:1 2nd gear. That means if I gear the 1:1 for the top speed, I'm getting a lot more low-end muscle from the Glide. Put that in an application like ours (Inhaler Model E) with outrageous power in a very lightweight package, where we could actually get by with direct drive, and it provides the ability with (as you said) a really high (numerically low) differential gearing, to aim for even higher top speeds; without sacrificing low end performance. We would probably be geared so tall that it would be like driving a direct drive vehicle - almost all "normal" driving would be done in 1st gear, with 2nd being used for triple digits.

Originally Posted by JRP3

Miz was probably referring to our AC motors when talking about electronic reversing. I agree it's not worth it with series DC.

I missed that point too. Interesting though that it actually interferes with one of the advantages of the AC motor.

[JRP3]

Originally Posted by mizlplix

Note the direct drive coupler. They come in two Chevy types, Early & late. Early has a 3-5/8" bolt circle and two piece oil seal, and the late has a 3" bolt circle and a one piece seal. (Also called their "crate engine") Get the one that matches your adapter kit....!!! They all have an adjustment for length. on the first snap ring groove, the center shaft does not protrude from the flange (pictured). It cannot do so because of the supplied motor coupler inner bore is too small. Mine was 3/8" too long...PROBLEM....Option 1-Move flange to the 3rd snap ring groove to make the length correct. Then lathe turn my new coupler to open up the center bore to accept the center shaft. OR Option 2- shorten the shaft from the rear (my choice). Also shorten the transmission inner drive shaft 3/8" too. It was an hours work and easy to do at home. Now everything bolts up perfectly!

Relating to my possible use of a TH125 auto in my Fiero, any chance the GM transmissions use the same input shaft for the torque converters, and this adapter would work on a TH125?

[mizlplix]

Sorry, I don't have the foggiest. BUT:

the O.D. of the drive end with the slots is 1.870" (the front seal I.D.)


the O.D. of the input shaft splines is .885"


The input shaft spline count is 17

The depth of my bellhousing is 5.25" (from seal to block mating surface)

Maybe you can measure yours and compare?

Miz

[JRP3]

Thanks for the data. My "build" is still virtual, but once I get my hands on an actual transmission I can check it against your measurements.

[mizlplix]

During this time when I am rebuilding the powerglide, I am using the down time to do some other things I have been wanting to do.

Like remove the clutch pedal. Yes it was hooked up to the transmission dump valve. That was for the ICE motor to take off when placed in gear. Not needed.

Like removing the transmission heat exchanger, hoses and pump. Not needed.

Like removing the 18" Spaal fan on the aluminum 1932 Ford radiator up front. Not needed.

I need to rewire my ZEVA coil 12VDC + wire to battery direct so the 12VDC disconnect switch will not interrupt it. It needs to keep alive in order to keep accurate estimate of my pack current.

Same with my J1772 plug "spoofer" board. It needs to stay alive even after the 12VDC disconnect is off.

Please be patient with me on this transmission build. It is taking so very much longer because of the constant need to stop, take pics, upload, and document the steps. I am used to just blowing through these things and moving on. It is also taxing my will to not skip over things. There are SO many things I catch myself doing automatically and not talking about.

Example: Before putting the reverse piston in the bore, As part of the prep, I lightly run my finger with emery paper around the top stepped portion to eliminate any sharp or even square edges that will cut the new seal ring.

That is a standard "mechanic" thing you pick up over the years and just do and not think about it.

Like when sticking a shaft into a seal, and the shaft has splines, threads or grooves that will scratch the seal, I always wrap those spots with black electrical tape and oil it. After the shaft is past the machined spot, I pull the tape out. Protecting the seal is the whole point.

BTW: Seal 101: Every seal installed in everything needs to be lubricated. They will get extreme wear on start up until they get the natural splash oil on them. Dry seal = short life.

Miz

[ricklearned]

Originally Posted by mizlplix

During this time when I am rebuilding the powerglide, I am using the down time to do some other things I have been wanting to do.

........

Same with my J1772 plug "spoofer" board. It needs to stay alive even after the 12VDC disconnect is off.

.........
Miz

I am just installing my spoofer board. Mine is the AVC2 from Modular EV Power. I assume you want it on so that you can charge with the J1772 while the ignition switch is off. If you are using that board are you using the relay on that board for anything? Some one suggested to me that I use the relay to turn on a fan to exhaust hot air from my Elcon charger.

Another use I was thinking about for that relay is to turn on the programmable voltmeter that I use to shut off my charger when my pack voltage gets to a certain point. That voltmeter stays on all the time right now but it would be a good feature to have it only come on when I am charging or when the car is running. That way it won't be draining the 12 volt battery when not charging.

[mizlplix]

Yes, my aux relay #1 turns on my single cell monitor. It watches my "problem" cell. It is the highest cell when charging and lowest when driving. I have not as yet, but can use it to turn off my Elcon if that cell gets too far above the rest of the pack.

Miz