[PeterH]

How does the clutch work in an EV?

I've discussed going without a clutch but decided I want to retain it. But now that brings up a question of exactly how that is going to work. Normally, the pressure plate and the flywheel sandwich the clutch disk. The flywheel is mounted to the ICE crankshaft.

So, with an EV motor, is there still some sort of flywheel attached to the motor for the clutch and pressure plate to mount to?

I'm sure there is... I've just not seen a good diagram to illustrate this. Does anyone know where I might find a good visual description of the motor-flywheel-clutch-pressureplate arrangement for an EV setup?

Thanks,
Pete

[dtbaker]

Originally Posted by PeterH

How does the clutch work in an EV?
I've just not seen a good diagram to illustrate this. Does anyone know where I might find a good visual description of the motor-flywheel-clutch-pressureplate arrangement for an EV setup?

'clutched' adaptors typically keep the clutch/flywheel from the ICE motor. The hub on the electric motor shaft and appropriate design of the adaptor plate/spacer positions the clutch face and throwout in its original position.

I have some pictures of the parts and assembly in my photo gallery starting right around here
http://www.envirokarma.org/ev/galler...r.w.clutch.htm

[PeterH]

Thanks Dan, that is exactly what I was looking for!

Next question: What is the best method or material for strapping the batteries to prevent swelling? I've seen plywood used in several examples. Wondering if 1/8th inch aluminum plate might work and save a bit of space due to the reduced thickness. I just don't know how much force a battery that wants to swell will exert.

Also wondering why the batteries want to swell in the first place... voltage too low, two high, discharge rates too high? The idea that they might swell on their own while awaing installation is a bit alarming... I'd hate to spend almost $6000 on a set of batteries only to find out a bunch have swelled up on their own.

Thanks,
Pete

[gsmith191145]

Originally Posted by PeterH

Thanks Dan, that is exactly what I was looking for!

Next question: What is the best method or material for strapping the batteries to prevent swelling? I've seen plywood used in several examples. Wondering if 1/8th inch aluminum plate might work and save a bit of space due to the reduced thickness. I just don't know how much force a battery that wants to swell will exert.

Also wondering why the batteries want to swell in the first place... voltage too low, two high, discharge rates too high? The idea that they might swell on their own while awaing installation is a bit alarming... I'd hate to spend almost $6000 on a set of batteries only to find out a bunch have swelled up on their own.

Thanks,
Pete

I honestly believe it to be the heat that warps the plates when the cells are charged. I have had fast chargers and slow trickle chargers and both of them warped the battery plates. I did not have problems with receiving batteries that were bulging.

[dtbaker]

Originally Posted by PeterH

Next question: What is the best method or material for strapping the batteries to prevent swelling?

....well I think it is debatable whether or not compression strapping is needed or beneficial. I doubt that the plastic deforms unless it is hot from overchange or extended high-C discharge, in which case the batteries are suffering anyway. I am thinking that the tighter constraint would just make it more likely to vent out the top. I'd almost rather have it bulge a little if it got to that.

That being said, I just made my battery boxes a tight fit. I do NOT have foam insulation on the sides because we have mild winters and car is in the garage at night. My boxes are 1/4" polypro plastic sheeting, which is fairly stiff, but does have some give.

1/2" plywood would be stiffer probably.

[PeterH]

Finally got another project to the point where I can put it away for the winter and get focused on my EV project. Here are a couple of 'starter' pics.



The interior is a little rough but for the price, I can clean it up nicely.



Why is it that every potiential donor car has a broken windshield?? :-) This one does also... so that will be something to fix before it goes on the road again. Headed to the local EV group meeting tomorrow night where I hope to discuss some of the finer details of my design before I start ordering parts.

More to come...
Pete

[PeterH]

Started de-ICEing the donor today. The motor is still in place because I'm trying to sell it and having it run should mean a better price. This is what things looked like Sunday morning...



This is what things looked like Sunday evening:






Hoping to find more time tonight to work on this.

Also considering ordering a Kostov 10" DC motor for this project. Apparently, it is a slightly lighter, shorter and more powerful motor. Anyone have any experience with that motor selection they care to comment on?

Thanks,
Pete

[PeterH]

Hi there,

Still working on the donor vehicle while I lay plans...

Considering a 120 or 144 volt battery pack consisting of 100 Ah lithium batteries. At 100 Ah, the recommended charge rate is .3 C or in this case, 30 amps.

I'd like this charger to live on board so I can take advantage of Opportunity Charging. My questions, got any recommendations on which charger to use?

I will of course include a BMS so the I'll need a charger that can be shut off by the BMS when peak pack voltage is reached...

Thanks,
Pete

[PeterH]

This is the required photograph, right??



Took me most of Saturday to pull the motor... had a few distractions. Pulled the transmission from the motor Sunday and powerwashed the Tracker. Ordered the Soliton Jr. last week. It should be here Friday.

My motor supplier is at that big EV Conversion conference in Missouri so I'll order the motor soon as he gets back.

Ready to work on mounting the motor and trans in the donor now.



Lots of clean up to do before I can really install anything. :-)

[PeterH]

Progress to report. My Kostov 10 inch motor just arrived and I just ordered the adapter from CanEV. Hope to see the adapter by next Monday. Meanwhile, I've got to find some documentation on the motor because the crate didn't include any.

Ordered a bunch of parts for the roller, new clutch kit, new brake parts, etc. Should be a busy weekend.

Also heard that it is recommended to burn in the brushes by running it for a few days on 12 VDC. Anyone have any thoughts on that? I'll post a question about that in another forum and see what happens.

Pete