[mmoyer2655]

Hey Everyone,

First I wanted to thank everyone for everything I've learned watching you guys do your conversions. I've been prepping my '92 Celica for a conversion for a few weeks now and I think it's time I start posting some details.

I'm just about ready to start buying EV parts, so any input is appreciated!

Details
The Car: 1992 Celica GT 5spd w/ blown motor.
Purchase Price: $450 off craigslist. Took about a month of scouring craigslist daily to find this one. It was difficult when cars are scrapping for $600 or so around here.
Condition: Aside from a blown motor, the car is in excellent shape. It came from an upscale neighborhood. Before the motor was blown it had just received a new paint job, new rims, and Yokohama tires. Perfect for a conversion.

The Plan
Budget: I'm trying to keep this conversion low cost to see if an EV is even practical for me. I'm patient and learn quickly, so I'm hoping to keep costs under $2500.00. But, I could go as high as $5-6k if it works out.
Motor: Undecided. I need some help here. I've been searching for an old forklift to pull out the motor and scrap the metal, but it's been difficult. I've also been watching eBay.
Controller: Most likely an Open ReVolt. I can solder it together, and the flexibility will allow me to reuse it if I upgrade or build a second.
Voltage: I'm thinking either 96V or 120V. I only need to go around 45-55mpg. I don't plan on using this conversion on the highway.
Batteries: I'll start with lead acid. Hopefully find some used banks to start. I only need about a 20-25 mile range. But if the car works out, I'll likely upgrade to lith-ion pretty quick (putting me in the $5-6k range).
Charger: Not sure. Any input would be great. From what I understand 96V is all I really need for my speeds, but 120V chargers are cheaper/more economical?

Advantages
I have a few things working in my favor.
1. I'm very detail oriented and mechanically inclined. Although, I have no experience in EV conversions.

2. I work for a church that has thousands of dollars in snap-on tools and machinery as well as 2 hydraulic car lifts. I may use them as I please.

3. I have a mechanic friend who is happy to help when needed, but is not always around.

4. I have a metal fabricator friend who is also willing to help when needed.

5. I live in Sarasota FL. So no cold weather to slow down progress or hurt battery life.

Summary:

I'm looking to do my first low cost EV conversion. I'm willing to sacrifice performance to keep costs down on this first conversion. If it works out, I'll likely overhaul or build another one with higher grade parts. This is more of a learning experience for me, so I'll be doing everything myself with the help of a mechanic friend or two.

[mmoyer2655]

Here is where I'm at with the car.

1. I've removed all of the ICE components.
2. I've degreased and pressure washed the entire exterior and engine bay.
3. I've removed all of the interior components to shampoo and clean.
4. The previous owner had a fender bender that damaged the bumper. I've got everything back together properly.
5. Other misc improvements. (Removed peeling tint, replaced shifter boot, etc).

Here are a few pictures of the cars current state.

Pulling the engine.


Engine Bay Before.


Transmission Before.


Engine Bay After.


Transmission After.


What's Next
The next thing I need to do is tackle the wiring harness, metering and removing all of the components I don't need anymore and getting it out of the way.

In the mean time I need to start buying EV parts, specifically a motor and controller to start. I don't want to go out and spend thousands on a Warp9 or 4001A if I can get by with something used from a forklift.

I've contacted all of my local forklift shops and come up empty. I have one more lead to follow on monday.

Is anybody selling an old motor, or know of any eBay listings that look promising? I can spend the time cleaning, rebuilding and advancing brushes if needed.

I was also thinking about buying a D&D motor in the 750-1000 dollar range and just calling it a day. It's just hard to pass up the idea of a free motor if I can find the right forklift and scrap the metal.

-Mike

[EVEngineeer]

I do not really have any input for you as of now, but you should post your car in the http://www.diyelectriccar.com/garage/ It may help people get a visual when you post pictures of the car. They may notice things that you didn't just with pictures.

BTW Great Car Purchase I wish I could find a car for that price or less in such good condition.

[Ziggythewiz]

Budget looks tight, but may be doable with your resources. Definitely 2nd the open revolt to let you do a 96 if you want and bump up later. There are DIY chargers out there also that would help out.

I think the forklift motor's required to stay in your budget, so keep lookin!

[mmoyer2655]

Time for a little update:

Work has been slow but steady on the car. I've finally got the wiring harness all figured out. I've got headlights, blinkers, tail/brake lights, dash, radio, and wipers all working on 12V power like they should with all of the excess harness removed.

The car is officially ready for electronic parts.

So far I've ordered:

Open ReVolt Controller $635

Volvo UP-28 12V Vacuum Pump $60

I think I've found a lead on a motor, just waiting for a callback tomorrow morning.

With the UP-28 I've read that it can go without a reservoir, and that you can even bypass a pressure switch by wiring directly to the brake relay. But, I'd rather set it up properly with a pressure switch. So, I'll be ordering one of those tonight.

I'm also looking for a Pot Box for the throttle. kta-ev has the pb-5 for $73 and the pb-6 for $86. What's the difference between the two?

Also, is there any issue using a 5k pot box from something like an ez-go golf cart? Those can be found on eBay in the $50 dollar range.

Next step is finding the motor so I can begin work on the coupler/adapter.

-Mike

[ricklearned]

Originally Posted by mmoyer2655

Time for a little update:

.........
I'm also looking for a Pot Box for the throttle. kta-ev has the pb-5 for $73 and the pb-6 for $86. What's the difference between the two?
.....

-Mike

The PB5 has no microswitch. I am going to use one for a regen brake control.

[mmoyer2655]

Originally Posted by ricklearned

The PB5 has no microswitch. I am going to use one for a regen brake control.

What does the microswitch do? Is there any benefit in having them?

-Mike

[mmoyer2655]

Add a Curtis PB6 and vaccuum switch from KTA to my ordered parts.

[ricklearned]

Originally Posted by mmoyer2655

What does the microswitch do? Is there any benefit in having them?

-Mike

I think it depends on your controller. My 1238R prevents the motor from turning if the pedal is depressed prior to the contactor closing. It is a safety feature.

[mmoyer2655]

Huge Development

I got extremely lucky today and found a guy on craigslist selling off some EV parts locally. He was an awesome guy that helped me plan my build and then gave me an unbelievable price on a motor, controller, and contactor.

Here's what I got:

D&D ES-31B 72/144V Motor
Soliton Jr. Motor Controller w/ POT
Albright SW-200 Contactor

all for the the price of....drum roll

$1800.00

Even though it completely blows my budget out of the water, I think it is well worth it.

I've emailed Paul to see if it's too late to cancel my ReVolt order, and I can even return my PB-6 saving 85 bucks.

He also hooked me up with a machine shop locally that can build a coupler for cheap.

I'm super excited to get to work. I now have almost everything I need. Just missing wire, gauges, dc-dc, and a charger.

-Mike