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  #21  
Old 05-03-2012, 05:39 PM
NintendoKD NintendoKD is offline
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziggythewiz View Post
You could make a system that averages 56A@ 240V (13.4kW) but you will want your peak power to be higher than that. Most batteries will handle at least 2-300 amps no problem anyway.

A controller acts as a transformer, and yes you want it to be the only one. The motor is just the means of turning the electrical power into mechanical a mechanical force.

Do you already have a motor?
why would I need to have peak power higher than that. As I understand it true HP and Torque numbers are from the controller, and not necessarily from the batteries. "the batteries obviously matter" how/what is the most efficient way to utilize the genset? augment three phase from the genset to assist the motor? or convert to dc and not-so-efficiently charge the batteries?

thanks,

Nintendo
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  #22  
Old 05-03-2012, 05:46 PM
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

Because that's enough power to move a VW bug, slowly.

The most efficient way to charge the batteries would be through a DC generator, not converting it to AC and back to DC.
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  #23  
Old 05-03-2012, 09:15 PM
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ziggythewiz View Post
Because that's enough power to move a VW bug, slowly.

The most efficient way to charge the batteries would be through a DC generator, not converting it to AC and back to DC.
sure. Now to source a good dc genset, or is there a way to use the one I have as a brush DC? The onan I have is a brush A/C
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  #24  
Old 05-04-2012, 08:58 AM
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

I guess, upon a closer inspection, my questions all appear to be statements, and as such make it appear that I know what I am talking about, which I don't. I know that everything that I thought I knew must be wrong, which is why I need help and advice, I just need a face-to-face with someone to explain all of this to me to grasp it. This isn't my usual learning method, I'm usually self-taught, by just figuring it out but the easiest way for me to lear is with one-on-one experience, or hands on.

thanks,

Nintendo
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  #25  
Old 05-04-2012, 08:59 AM
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

looking for my local chapter of electric auto association.
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  #26  
Old 05-04-2012, 04:55 PM
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

now a member of the palm springs chapter, a lot like facebook
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  #27  
Old 05-05-2012, 12:37 AM
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

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now a member of the palm springs chapter, a lot like facebook
You would hope it would be quite the opposite. You want facetime with actual EV owners, while Facebook is far less useful than any virtual forum.
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  #28  
Old 05-05-2012, 01:04 AM
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

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Originally Posted by Ziggythewiz View Post
You would hope it would be quite the opposite. You want facetime with actual EV owners, while Facebook is far less useful than any virtual forum.
already talked to a member, on the phone. the layout and overall concept seems a lot like fb, but in reality, it is nothing like, this is certainly more productive. and....... forums are the bomb
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  #29  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:53 PM
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

Qouting PStechPaul here: "
I don't have experience with large motors as used in EVs used for passenger cars and trucks, but I have done extensive reading and I have these books:
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Your-Own.../dp/0830642315
http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Motor...ref=pd_sim_b_5
and one or two others.

After learning about the pros and cons of various motor types, especially for vehicle application, I decided that the three phase induction motor was the best overall, for reasons of cost, ruggedness, low maintenance, and ease of control. They can be tweaked for maximum efficiency at low torque, and can operate at up to 3 or 4 times rated torque before stalling. They can be used for regeneration and dynamic braking, and can be overclocked to obtain perhaps 2-4 times the HP at higher speeds and voltages.

I know that BLDCs are extremely popular, but they tend to be more expensive, and relatively fragile, with catastrophic failure modes. The advantages are small size, high efficiency, and high peak power and torque.

For raw power and torque, the series wound motor can be pushed as high as 10x rating, but only for short durations and at the expense of fast wear and damage to brushes and commutators. They are also difficult to control and don't make good generators.

So, yes, there are ways to "boost" the output from any motor. The limitations are as you have noted, based on temperature, conductivity of windings, voltage limitations of insulation, demagnetization, and mechanical stress and failure at high RPMs and torques beyond the original design specifications. "

Yhis and other reasons are why I want to go with 3-phase, the bigger the better, I am really liking the 4o Horse models, that I saw at the shop that may or may not be good "spin freely, no scorch marks" I want to know more about "overclocking these puppies, or is there a way to incerase the efficiency? I wish to seek this method, even though it is suggested to do a dc conversion first for ease, and price. I have many of the components necessary, I just need batteries, and controllers/charger. I want to do this as efficient as possible, with emphasis on efficiency. I also want to do it right.
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  #30  
Old 05-07-2012, 09:06 PM
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

big DERP here, I misspelled and made numerous grammatical errors in my last post "confucious say, remember grandson, haste make waste!" Ok, I am also looking at increasing the efficiency of my onan, and making it less of an environmental polluter. I don't neccesarily mean more output HP wise, but this equates to overall efficiency, and ease of work. I also seek to improve the output of the generator itself, how to do this? I assume that this is similar to what DC motor guys are doing to their motors to improve power output in HP/Torque how to do this? I know that there is a bigger one out there for free, but this will help me to tinker and learn all about these. the generator has single phase output, unless I am mistaken, so adding a diode will allow d/c output to help charge the batteries. I also have a military generator, 24v output @ 400A that came off of a detroit diesel, used in the LAV-25, wonder if output "once upgraded" from the onan can be used to power both?
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