[adeyo]

Thank you both. ...my motor is a 60 HP continuous. Would i need to rewind to another voltage?? or could i leave this as is. Seems like this motor would be a strong performer, but i dont want to change it...but run it how it was designed. Here is a spec sheet...

[subcooledheatpump]

Since this is a dual voltage motor, you could use either 340 volts DC into an industrial inverter (240 volt motor wiring)

or 680 volts DC into an inverter (480 volt motor wiring)

you should have 177 FT LBS torque (239 nm) at nominal current, and with the right inverter, 3 to 4x more.


What does the original engine output?

The Wavesculptor controller would be good if you don't want to attempt to modify an industrial inverter, but there are other low voltage 3 phase controllers if you get it rewound for lower voltage.

http://www.tritium.com.au/products/TRI74/index.html

[Ivansgarage]

Originally Posted by subcooledheatpump

Since this is a dual voltage motor, you could use either 340 volts DC into an industrial inverter (240 volt motor wiring)

or 680 volts DC into an inverter (480 volt motor wiring)

I just got one question, how many batteries does it take for 340 volt dc
or 680 volts dc.

[adeyo]

Originally Posted by subcooledheatpump

What does the original engine output?

135 HP at 3600 rpm, 210 ft-lbs torque at 1800 rpm.

Originally Posted by Ivansgarage;

I just got one question, how many batteries does it take for 340 volt dc
or 680 volts dc.

well, since i am new...i'm trying to understand all this. but this is a legitmate fear. are all EV's run at lower voltages? ie. 72 volts and such?? I thought many were actually operated in the 300-400 Volt range???

[Ivansgarage]

Originally Posted by adeyo

135 HP at 3600 rpm, 210 ft-lbs torque at 1800 rpm.



well, since i am new...i'm trying to understand all this. but this is a legitmate fear. are all EV's run at lower voltages? ie. 72 volts and such?? I thought many were actually operated in the 300-400 Volt range???

Thats my point big voltage lots of bats Kevins truck at topeka electric
motor is proof you dont need 300 volt and 500 amps.

You could allso build your own controller..
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...9&postcount=33

[Hollie Maea]

Originally Posted by adeyo

are all EV's run at lower voltages? ie. 72 volts and such?? I thought many were actually operated in the 300-400 Volt range???

People mostly use low voltage because high voltage either takes a lot of work or a lot of money, while low voltage can be implemented cheap and easy with components that people are very familiar with: At low voltage you can use 1. A brushed DC motor. 2. A few high capacity batteries (such as Thundersky or CALB) that are super easy to install and set up. 3. A ready to use commercially available controller made for the DC motors mentioned above. You can easily find step by step instructions on this forum and copy people who have done successful conversions with the same components.

At high voltage, things are different: 1. An AC motor must be used. 2. Your batteries have to be smaller capacity and a lot of them must be put in series. Most of the available smaller capacity cells, for example A123 cells, require a lot of work to get into a usable battery pack. 3. A high voltage AC controller must be used. AC controllers are a lot more complicated, and in general are not readily available. In a few rare instances you can get a high voltage AC motor/controller paired set for a ridiculously high amount of money, but generally you are stuck either designing a controller or modifying an industrial controller, both of which are tasks beyond the abilities of most people. In your case, since you have some random AC motor, you would probably have to end up trying to do that.

[Ivansgarage]

Originally Posted by Hollie Maea

People mostly use low voltage because high voltage either takes a lot of work or a lot of money, while low voltage can be implemented cheap and easy with components that people are very familiar with: At low voltage you can use 1. A brushed DC motor. 2. A few high capacity batteries (such as Thundersky or CALB) that are super easy to install and set up. 3. A ready to use commercially available controller made for the DC motors mentioned above. You can easily find step by step instructions on this forum and copy people who have done successful conversions with the same components.

At high voltage, things are different: 1. An AC motor must be used.

WRONG the ac50 is 70 volt rms its an ac motor

2. Your batteries have to be smaller capacity
WRONG why

and a lot of them must be put in series.
Wrong dc or ac motors

Most of the available smaller capacity cells, for example A123 cells, require a lot of work to get into a usable battery pack. 3. A high voltage AC controller must be used. AC controllers are a lot more complicated, and in general are not readily available. In a few rare instances you can get a high voltage AC motor/controller paired set for a ridiculously high amount of money, but generally you are stuck either designing a controller or modifying an industrial controller, both of which are tasks beyond the abilities of most people. In your case, since you have some random AC motor, you would probably have to end up trying to do that.

_________________________

[Hollie Maea]

Originally Posted by Ivansgarage

_________________________

Ivan, pay attention to what I said: I said at high voltage you have to use AC. I didn't say that if you use AC you have to use high voltage. An AC system can be made at high or low voltage but a DC has to be at low voltage. So yes, the AC50 is AC but runs at low voltage. But you can't run a DC motor at high voltages because the brushes arc.

As far as the AC50 goes, I view it as a way to mimic the standard DC setups that most people do, but in AC. So, it is low voltage high current and you can easily use the usual batteries. It's not much more expensive than a DC setup. And it's a "standard" setup with a specific motor matched with a specific controller. The downside is that it's kind of junky. The motor is undersized and helps perpetuate the stereotype that AC is wimpy. And the controller isn't really well suited for the task. And it does not take advantage of the advantage available to AC systems of being able to operate at higher voltages.

[Ivansgarage]

Originally Posted by Hollie Maea

Ivan, pay attention to what I said: I said at high voltage you have to use AC. I didn't say that if you use AC you have to use high voltage. An AC system can be made at high or low voltage but a DC has to be at low voltage. So yes, the AC50 is AC but runs at low voltage. But you can't run a DC motor at high voltages because the brushes arc.

As far as the AC50 goes, I view it as a way to mimic the standard DC setups that most people do, but in AC. So, it is low voltage high current and you can easily use the usual batteries. It's not much more expensive than a DC setup. And it's a "standard" setup with a specific motor matched with a specific controller. The downside is that it's kind of junky. The motor is undersized and helps perpetuate the stereotype that AC is wimpy.


And the controller isn't really well suited for the task. And it does not take advantage of the advantage available to AC systems of being able to operate at higher voltages.

You should read the second post. Here is a curtis ac controller, low voltage
and it kicks ass

[subcooledheatpump]

Don't know about anybody else, but I use 50 sealed lead acid batteries in series for 600 volts.


Yeah thats my destroyed controller you linked to Ivansgarage.

You'll be happy to know my replacement controller is just a day away from being tested in my van.

Speaking of custom high voltage controller, it has been done before with very good results. Etischer on this forum is probably the best example. If i'm not mistaken he's had his custom controller going for a little more than 3 years.


Others like acmotor on the AEVA forums have had success with standard industrial VFDs driving standard industrial induction motors, no modifications needed.

So it is possible. Ideal, probably not but possible

adeyo: the motor in question should have no problems at all moving your vehicle under nominal ratings