I've kept the throttle body from mine too, not checked the position sensor yet but I figured that it would be useful either way.
I've seen some couplers that have kept the springs from the clutch centre as it helps absorb some of the shock loadings in the system if there are any. I don't know if there is any advantage over the solid couplers.
woodsmith cost was the decider. I had that coupler to hand from an abandoned project.I looked at keeping the clutch and flywheel but the hen's brain that wrecked the engine burnt the hell out of the clutch and i couldn't afford the cost of a new kit. The release bearing fell to pieces and there was more duct then lining
More work on gearbox / motor adaptor. Used two 12mm steel plates , one on gearbox and one on motor. Gap required is 60mm so need to make up 4 spacers. Transfer punches made the job of locating the holes a snap. Still need to work out how to secure the clutch center to the coupler.
I will need to look for something to make my adaptor with at some point. Initially I think it will be birch ply though 2" thick of quarter sawn oak would probably do just as well as aluminium plate.
Not too heavy. About 10 to 12kg per piece. I'm using a standard pilot bore jaw coupler with a plastic center insert of the type used to couple shafts in industry. I had it to hand from a previous project so i'm giving it a shot. Not sure if it will work out. One side is bored and keyed to fit the motor and other side is bored to fit the clutch center spigot. I'm not sure as yet how i'll secure the spigot to the coupler.
the big advantage of this type of coupler is that they allow for considerable misalignment between the two shafts. The plates themselves were cut from one length of steel and are as flat as I can measure so fingers crossed. I'm making 4 spacers from 60mm round stock and will drill and tap it to m16 to bolt the two plates together.
I'd have loved to use ali but its way too pricey. I'd have been looking at 200 euros for two plates and the steel only cost 40.
Another day at the office. Made up 4 spacers from 60mm round steel stock. Each spacer is 62mm +/- .05mm. Drilled and tapped them m16 center. Took a long shot at the hardened clutch disc and it paid off. Used the tig on low current (70a dc) to heat the 4 corners of the disc to bright red. Drilled 5mm no problem and opened up to 7mm to tap m8. The 7mm bit struggled so at least i know i only softened a small area. Tapped m8 down into the coupler and have ordered some m8 high tensile allen bolts. Just used some grub bolts to get an idea and seem to be ok.
Just one thing.
Are you tapping both the clutch centre and the coupler together?
Surely the holes in the clutch centre should be a plain snug fit on a bolt and the hole in the coupler should be threaded and then counter bored a little way for the unthreaded part of the bolt?
That way you can tighten down the clutch centre to the coupler and have it flat and properly registered on the mating surfaces.
If both parts are threaded together then they will never be able to tighten down flat and if you don't orientate the parts correctly then the theads won't line up and thre will some uneven jacking up in the joint.
I've found a bit of aluminum plate on ebay for my adaptor now.
Thats the idea exactly. Main problem i had was the hardness of the steel on the clutch disc. I hope this setup will handle the torque. Had the coupler been steel i would have just welded the thing. I don't honestly know why these couplers are made from cast iron.
Re: Brushed Motor Works
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