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  #21  
Old 06-10-2012, 03:42 PM
johnsiddle johnsiddle is offline
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Default Re: Converting my 2001 Volvo V40

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Originally Posted by Woodsmith View Post
The vacuum pump will self limit as it will just reach a point where it is completely unable to pull any more vacuum.

If the pump has pipe unions for oil you could just make up a small engine oil reserviour that is plumbed into it. An old brake fluid reserviour would probably do. It shouldn't need high oil pressure so just having a small supply should do it.
It has an input and output pipe so are you saying block the output pipe and just let it suck what it needs from the input pipe.

I will fetch it tomorrow maybe the bearings can be removed and replaced with high speed sealed ones.

Drilled and tapped the 25mm holes in the motor feet, unfortunately one went skew when I was tapping it but it should be OK still got about 40mm of thread tapped.
Given the size of these bolts it ain't going to go anywhere.

How is the leg doing????
John
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  #22  
Old 06-10-2012, 04:38 PM
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Default Re: Converting my 2001 Volvo V40

You could just put both pipes together to the reserviour so there is oil in there. If changing the bearings will work that will be the better option.



The leg is a pain. No driving, cycling or walking on it at all. I can't even put any weight on the cast if I stand so standing for any length of time is awkward at best and hard on the hip joints. Definitely no chance of doing any workshop stuff, especially after I fell over on the crutches the other day and mashed up my big toe. Hopefully not broken it.

Only just figured out how to wash myself and keep the cast dry.

I am wheeling myself about on an office chair with my leg in the air to reduce the blood pressure in it so even walking with sticks is out unless I have to. Arch is going to borrow a wheelchair for m to use though.


Also have to have an injection of anti-coagulant every day so I don't get DVT. I have to get my Dad in to administer that as I can't do it myself.
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  #23  
Old 06-11-2012, 07:09 AM
Ace_bridger Ace_bridger is online now
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Default Re: Converting my 2001 Volvo V40

I was looking at Volvo pumps too. The part number is UP28. It appears that the same pump is used on many vehicles but the price varies dependent on the make of car.

There was one on eBay a while back from a Landrover, brand new, and it went for 30!!! I missed it and ended up hunting down a brand new kit which was sold as it was no longer needed for a hot rod build. I fitted it earlier this week, in the rain (!), with no reservoir and it appears to work fine...although I haven't road tested it yet.
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  #24  
Old 06-11-2012, 01:35 PM
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Default Re: Converting my 2001 Volvo V40

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodsmith View Post
You could just put both pipes together to the reserviour so there is oil in there. If changing the bearings will work that will be the better option.



The leg is a pain. No driving, cycling or walking on it at all. I can't even put any weight on the cast if I stand so standing for any length of time is awkward at best and hard on the hip joints. Definitely no chance of doing any workshop stuff, especially after I fell over on the crutches the other day and mashed up my big toe. Hopefully not broken it.

Only just figured out how to wash myself and keep the cast dry.

I am wheeling myself about on an office chair with my leg in the air to reduce the blood pressure in it so even walking with sticks is out unless I have to. Arch is going to borrow a wheelchair for m to use though.


Also have to have an injection of anti-coagulant every day so I don't get DVT. I have to get my Dad in to administer that as I can't do it myself.
Thanks Ace-bridger.

I picked up the Rover 200 pump today and stripped it. Inside it is basically a 4 bladed oil pump, it sucks air thro the big hole and oil thro a very small pin hole ( this lubricates the vanes) they move round and pushes both the air and the oil out and into the area from where the oil came from.
The pump is the same as this one on ebay now 200677151526 I got mine for 15 tho.





So I think a small reservoir with a supply and return open to the air pressure will work.
The amount of oil that gets sucked in is very small I think, just enough to wet the vanes. I need to shorten the shaft that went into the alternator shaft and put a cover over it cuz some of this oil was used to lube the alternator

A good point is that the vacuum port has a non return valve built in so my modified 15mm plumbers valve will not be needed.

John
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  #25  
Old 06-11-2012, 01:44 PM
johnsiddle johnsiddle is offline
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Default Re: Converting my 2001 Volvo V40

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace_bridger View Post
I was looking at Volvo pumps too. The part number is UP28. It appears that the same pump is used on many vehicles but the price varies dependent on the make of car.

There was one on eBay a while back from a Landrover, brand new, and it went for 30!!! I missed it and ended up hunting down a brand new kit which was sold as it was no longer needed for a hot rod build. I fitted it earlier this week, in the rain (!), with no reservoir and it appears to work fine...although I haven't road tested it yet.
I assume you are still using a vacuum reservoir, if not your pump will have to run all the time using up 12v.

My pump is going to be driven by the main motor so when I stop I still need some braking power.
John
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  #26  
Old 07-01-2012, 04:40 PM
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Default Re: Converting my 2001 Volvo V40

Not been on for a while due to a short holiday, but been back a week and been at it constantly.

A few changes of plan, I put the motor back together and tried a dummy fitting..... Didn't fit, the 50mm box I used for the frame took up all my space and left none for the motor to tilt in to engage the coupling.
So out came the frame and so did the cutting disk to make the forward box sections into u-sections.
Then decided the best way is to do what Volvo do and build the motor and gearbox up outside the car and fit as a single lump.
So that is the plan, the gearbox is out and I am just waiting for the steel plate on which to bolt my motor to arrive.

A change of plan on the coupling front ( this will please Woody) I am using all of the clutch (minus the friction disk) and bolting a 3mm thick aluminium disk using the rivit holes to it and then bolting my motor coupler to this disk.



The vaccuum tank has been mounted in the tunnel and plumbed into place, the vaccuum pump is going to be driven by a ribbed belt fitted on the back end of the main motor, plan A was to drive it from the coupling but if the belt broke I would have to remove the whole assy to replace it.
I am going to weld a ribbed pulley from the alternator onto the boss that was used to hold the bearing in place and provide a rev counter in the original milk float. Just hope I can weld it central and not out of balance too much.

Found out that volvo used the crank position sensor to generate the rev counter reading so removed that and fitted it to the motor, had to make my own flag for it cuz I couldn't get the crank nut off the ICE.
Fitted a duct for my blower to provide additional cooling when stationary (or any other time if the motor gets hot) and fitted a lifting eye on the motor back.

Message to Woody, how is the leg coming on, you back mobile yet????

Regards John
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  #27  
Old 07-02-2012, 04:23 AM
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Default Re: Converting my 2001 Volvo V40

Looks interesting now!

You know, now you have the gearbox out I will revert back to the original suggestion of using nice thick bits of aluminium plate as the adapter and aligning the motor to the gearbox by standing it all on end.

However, we now have a cradle.
Where you have cut the box section into channels it would be good if you can close the channel by welding the cut sections back in. The transition from the square section to the flatter rectangular section can be blended with a taper to reduce stress risers. Some reinforcement around the internal corners of the cuts will be needed to replace the lost strength and rigidity.

The bolted sections that don't need to be removed should be welded when their location is certain. The brace across the top will need some location lugs welded on to rigidly locate it prior to bolting. Once you have that in the right place clamp some bits of angle to the underside of each end of that brace and weld them to the brace. That will prevent any chance of the cradle closing up when the bolts slip, they will slip. It is easier to show you but I can't get down to you at the moment.

But that brace will move, and let the cradle sag, if you don't have some positive location on it. I'll have to give you a call at some point and we can talk about it.



I am still not convinced that 3mm aluminium plate will be able to transmit the loadings in the coupler. If you consider how hard the steel clutch center is compared to how soft the aluminium is and that the torque from your motor could damage the clutch centre....
I reckon you will shear the aluminium very easily.


The vacuum tank looks good as does the cable duct and cooling duct. Do check for clearances between the brushes, brush conductors and the cooling duct bolts/rivets. It looks ok in the photo but hard to be sure.


I am still immobile. No driving, no workshop, no chainsawing logs, no stone wall building.
I spend all day on the couch or scooting about on an office chair to get around one room and I use crutches to get down to the granny flat for dinner once a day. Arch pushes me about in a wheel chair each weekend to get some air.
I have another hospital appointment on Thursday where I will find out if I can put any weight on my leg at all.
Likely four more weeks before physiotherapy to make me mobile again.

Must look into getting that Land Rover axle too.
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  #28  
Old 07-02-2012, 07:09 AM
Ace_bridger Ace_bridger is online now
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Default Re: Converting my 2001 Volvo V40

Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsiddle View Post
I assume you are still using a vacuum reservoir, if not your pump will have to run all the time using up 12v.

My pump is going to be driven by the main motor so when I stop I still need some braking power.
John
I was going to use a reservoir but looking around I found people who had sucessfully used these pumps without.

Mine has a seperate vacuum switch which is normally closed and opens when the vacuum is drawn down to the correct level.

The pump is run from a relay fed by the vacuum switch which has a time delay built in (not sure how this works). When I switch on the ignition the pump runs until the vacuum reaches the right level and the pump stops. When I apply the brake the vacuum obviously decreases and the switch cuts in and the pump runs.

I have not yet had a road test to check how well it is all working.
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  #29  
Old 07-02-2012, 07:35 AM
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Default Re: Converting my 2001 Volvo V40

on mine, I added a 22000uF capacitor in parellel with the pump relay, keeps it open for an extra couple of seconds...

If you need any help with switches and fittings let me know

Cheers,

Mike
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  #30  
Old 07-02-2012, 05:17 PM
johnsiddle johnsiddle is offline
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Default Re: Converting my 2001 Volvo V40

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodsmith View Post
Looks interesting now!

You know, now you have the gearbox out I will revert back to the original suggestion of using nice thick bits of aluminium plate as the adapter and aligning the motor to the gearbox by standing it all on end.

However, we now have a cradle.
Where you have cut the box section into channels it would be good if you can close the channel by welding the cut sections back in. The transition from the square section to the flatter rectangular section can be blended with a taper to reduce stress risers. Some reinforcement around the internal corners of the cuts will be needed to replace the lost strength and rigidity.

The bolted sections that don't need to be removed should be welded when their location is certain. The brace across the top will need some location lugs welded on to rigidly locate it prior to bolting. Once you have that in the right place clamp some bits of angle to the underside of each end of that brace and weld them to the brace. That will prevent any chance of the cradle closing up when the bolts slip, they will slip. It is easier to show you but I can't get down to you at the moment.

But that brace will move, and let the cradle sag, if you don't have some positive location on it. I'll have to give you a call at some point and we can talk about it.



I am still not convinced that 3mm aluminium plate will be able to transmit the loadings in the coupler. If you consider how hard the steel clutch center is compared to how soft the aluminium is and that the torque from your motor could damage the clutch centre....
I reckon you will shear the aluminium very easily.


The vacuum tank looks good as does the cable duct and cooling duct. Do check for clearances between the brushes, brush conductors and the cooling duct bolts/rivets. It looks ok in the photo but hard to be sure.


I am still immobile. No driving, no workshop, no chainsawing logs, no stone wall building.
I spend all day on the couch or scooting about on an office chair to get around one room and I use crutches to get down to the granny flat for dinner once a day. Arch pushes me about in a wheel chair each weekend to get some air.
I have another hospital appointment on Thursday where I will find out if I can put any weight on my leg at all.
Likely four more weeks before physiotherapy to make me mobile again.

Must look into getting that Land Rover axle too.
Hi Mate
I hope its good news on Thursday.

On the question of re-boxing the cut sections, I dont think I would gain too much, the sections are 3mm steel making a U-section 25mm X 50mm X 25mm at 3mm. This stuff is very rigid and I am sure it is much stronger than the ally it is bolted to, it also means I can use shorter bolts and bolt straight to the ally, better than trying to fit spacers across the box.

I am commited to the cradle for now if things are not too good I can easily rip it down and go the ally plate way.

I will give the ally coupling a try, at least the clutch center is now buffered using the built in springs, these should take some of the shock.
In its original form the clutch has a very large diameter disk with friction material on so the added strength of steel is important.
The ally plate will be about 135mm dia, same as the clutch, my heavy steel motor boss is about 100mm with 10mm stainless steel bolts
As long as I get everything lined up I think I have half a chance, it can only fail.

I take your point about the pieces of angle to stop the cradle folding, I will fit these once everything is lined up, I will replace the bolts with some 12mm high tensile engine bolts I have. With the angle welded in place as well as these bolts it should hold unless I go off roading. I think I will change that stresser bar on top of the gearbox and fit it on the motor side and full width, it can not be welded on (was welded in the first version) because I would not be able to get the motor out in the future.

The ducting on the motor has about 20mm clearance from the brushes so no worries there, I need to get a temp sensor pushed up near the top field coil so I can decide when to power this blower, I should have done it before putting the motor back together but forgot.

Best wishes John
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