[Woodsmith]

That sounds good.

I would advise boxing in the open channels as it will make them stiffer. They are the only parts that keep the cradle aligned to the gearbox in the front to back direction.

If I can organise it I will see if Arch wants to drive me down to have a look at your progress one weekend. It would be good to get out and about.

Any other tooling you need to borrow?

[johnsiddle]

Originally Posted by Ace_bridger

I was going to use a reservoir but looking around I found people who had sucessfully used these pumps without.

Mine has a seperate vacuum switch which is normally closed and opens when the vacuum is drawn down to the correct level.

The pump is run from a relay fed by the vacuum switch which has a time delay built in (not sure how this works). When I switch on the ignition the pump runs until the vacuum reaches the right level and the pump stops. When I apply the brake the vacuum obviously decreases and the switch cuts in and the pump runs.

I have not yet had a road test to check how well it is all working.

My reservoir was easy enough to fit especially as I had an old used fire extinguisher with an ally case, the top bit was brass so soldering a 15mm pipe was easy, it is T-ed into the vac line with a 10mm copper T fitting. I might fit another T piece in and fit a Vac guage to see what vac I manage to pull.
Electric vac pumps are like hens teeth to get so I will give my mechanical one a try.

[johnsiddle]

Originally Posted by Woodsmith

That sounds good.

I would advise boxing in the open channels as it will make them stiffer. They are the only parts that keep the cradle aligned to the gearbox in the front to back direction.

If I can organise it I will see if Arch wants to drive me down to have a look at your progress one weekend. It would be good to get out and about.

Any other tooling you need to borrow?

That would be good, might be better to leave it a week or two as I have a busy weekend this weekend coming, birthday party Sat and a Christening Sunday.
The only other thing I need for now is the power steering pump and an expert welder to weld my ribbed pulley onto that boss with the square hole in.
I have the two bolted together at present and am resurrecting an old (very old) metalwork lathe, it is the only thing I have with a chuck big enough to hold the boss so I can make sure the two pieces are in line and spinning true. It has not been used for about 35years and has lost its motor and some other bits and is very rusty, but it had a lot of grease on it when it was last used so what is there is moving OK, but all will be corrected in a day or so.

I will look again at boxing the cut sections, it will mess up my paintwork again tho.....

[johnsiddle]

Latest developements, Mk2 coupling and the box sections now re-boxed.

The old lathe worked a treat spinning my ally disk, just hope the clutch part is central. The measurments were taken from the center point so should be OK.

Latest thoughts on the vac pump is it is going to be electric either as bought or drive the mechanical one by its own little electric motor if I can find one with some sort of pulley.

I have ripped a vac diaphragm assy from the EGR assy of an old Toyota Surf I used to have and plan on fitting a microswitch to it to control the pump.
JS

[johnsiddle]

Gave up on driving the mechanical pump with a motor.... too messy, have found a vacuum pump off a Jag on fleabay.
It arrived today got it fitted and plumbed in but depending on where the pump stops the vacuum escapes so I need to fit a one way valve.
What degree of vacuum should I be aiming for?
I have my eye on a vac guage so I can see what is going on.

Drilled my motor plate and gave it some undercoat, top coat tomorrow.
Started assembling the heater bits on my backplate fitted to the bulkhead, the high current switches/relays have also been mounted on this plate the cables from the boot batteries will be secured here also.

Should have some more pics tomorrow.

[johnsiddle]

Latest developements, the motor is now mounted in the cradle, alignment is near perfect with just one thin piec of ally.
I am going to losen the motor plate tomorrow and whilst running the motor lift it on the bolts to see if there is room for any improvment. There is just a slight vibration at present, I doubt it will be a problem but will see anyway.

The coupling, after assembling with m7 ht bolts in place of the m6 bolts I used originally, is running pretty true, the center bit floats nicely.

The vac pump is all plumbed in now, just waiting for the vac guage to complete it.
The back plate is now complete, the high current relays are mounted, I just need to get a high power resistor to mount for my pre charge. What resistance is normally used for a bank of say 2000uf capacitor bank????

The next step is mounting everything
John

[johnsiddle]

I installed the motor and gearbox in the car today . It was a bit of a struggle doing it singlehanded but I managed not to crush any plastic bits.
Refitted the driveshafts and wheels and with 12v applied they turn... Yipppeee...

I have glued a small magnet on to one of the drive shafts and mounted a crankshaft position for a different model V40 to sense road speed.
I will put my oscilloscope on it tomorrow to see what sort of signal I am getting.
I have bought a Tacho chip from RS, I will configure it to switch a relay to turn off the power steering pump at about 20mph to save 12v power.

I am bidding on fleabay for a Peugeot 106 pump, it is local so no postage if I win it.

The bulkhead panel is almost complete, just need a length of hose to complete the heater line and a pre-charge resistor once I find out what value of resistor I need.

How is the leg/foot doing Woody, how did the hospital appointment go last week????

Regards John

[Woodsmith]

That's looking good. Running the wheels on 12v is a milestone to be proud of.

Hopefully the Forth Bridge will be strong enough. Do monitor it, maybe some discreet measurements for location at any potential weak points, checking the frame is, and stays, square in all directions.

Really don't want any flex in it as it will destroy the motor alignment, and all the hard work.

Hospital appointment was OK, very very long wait as it was running behind. I think the consultant isn't very bright. I am getting better advice from a cycling forum and YouTube.
I am getting some movement back and I can put a little weight on it to hobble about but still on two sticks for now.
Left leg muscles wasting away while the right is building up from all the hopping about!

With Arch's help I did manage a bit of one legged fire wood chopping at the weekend though! Good for the balance!

[johnsiddle]

Thats great news, you are loking good... very manly so is Arch (what is Arch short for?).
How much do you want for that Steering pump, I forgot you had it when I started bidding this morning.

Found out today I nicked the inner CV gaitor when I put the drive shafts back in, luckily it is easy to get to just behind the motor and in plain view. I love electric motors.

I thought this motor was as heavy as the ICE but it almost balances the gearbox and the suspention is right at the top. I guess that will all change when I get some batteries in.
John

[Woodsmith]

Originally Posted by johnsiddle

Thats great news, you are loking good... very manly so is Arch (what is Arch short for?).
How much do you want for that Steering pump, I forgot you had it when I started bidding this morning.

John

Arch is 'Archer', that's her name, most people just call her Arch. Not sure what she would make of being called 'manly' though.

I'm not sure what the pump would be worth, I'll dig it out at some point and see if I can get it to you first. Would it be worth that Land Rover axle you found? We can do a trade on that if that suits.