[david85]

Hey, welcome to the forum.

Currently I don't have a mount on the motor end (YET!!)

Hoping to get that worked out this weekend. The idea is to try with only one mount at the motor and if there is too much flexing, then I'll figure out a second mount for the motor to take up the extra torque.

Splines worked fine in both test runs without any funny noises or vibrations. I was planning to use grease on the final assembly. The smaller spline coupling on the transmission shaft is interference fit. The larger one has some slight slack but the larger shaft is 33mm on measured across in the valleys, 36 overall. I think it can take it if there is any slight error in location.

Soft coupling has its advantages, but it would have also increased the length of the motor/transmission assembly.

[dtbaker]

Its a safe bet that there will be a LOT of wind up and movement unless you have solid triangle of mounts for the motor... There is a LOT of torque, and if it 'winds up' under torque it will be slamming into whatever is close by, and maybe ripping the other motor mounts apart in the process. Don't skimp on solid mounting with at least opposing mounts to prevent rotation under load.

[david85]

Time for me to eat my words.

What I had in mind was to rely on one mount for the motor, and the 2 mounts on the tranny side. The transmission as one support mount underneath, and the torsion mount on top. Didn't work. Just rocking the powertrain back and fourth by hand was enough to get a collision of the CV joint against the chassy. Hate to think what could happen if I ran the motor.

Took a lot of thinking and needed some help again, but got something that I am satisfied with. The motor has 2 rather stiff engine mounts instead of one off to the side. Its very rigid and you can actually feel a "torque bump" in the seat of the car when flooring it. The pulse from the motor gets transmitted strait through the engine mounts because they are so firm. No chance for anything comming loose now.

[Dave Koller]

Originally Posted by david85

Time for me to eat my words.

What I had in mind was to rely on one mount for the motor, and the 2 mounts on the tranny side. The transmission as one support mount underneath, and the torsion mount on top. Didn't work. Just rocking the powertrain back and fourth by hand was enough to get a collision of the CV joint against the chassy. Hate to think what could happen if I ran the motor.

Took a lot of thinking and needed some help again, but got something that I am satisfied with. The motor has 2 rather stiff engine mounts instead of one off to the side. Its very rigid and you can actually feel a "torque bump" in the seat of the car when flooring it. The pulse from the motor gets transmitted strait through the engine mounts because they are so firm. No chance for anything comming loose now.

David don't know if this will help now but here is how I mounted my motor in my 99 Saturn SL2 .....

[Dave Koller]

That was dumb of me as I remembered you have no rear engine mount place like ADC - but you have to cradle it and strap it some way - how did you do that? Or did you have a shot of that motor mount?

[david85]

I'll post some more pictures as soon as I get the chance. Might be a couple days.

[El Rayo]

I've got a comment on the connectors. Do you really need them? Each connector is a source for a possible fault, sometimes intermittent and difficult to trace.

I think connectors are a product for ease of assembly in mass production.

I use these heat shrink tubes to connect electrical wires permanently. They come in four sizes ranging from .3 - 6 square millimeters. In the center is a low melting point solder. The inside is coated with glue that makes the connection water proof. It works well on new wires. Old wires should be pre tinned for good contact.

[david85]

They are only sensor wires, so I don't see a problem with having connectors (no significant amount of current). Whenever I modify or work on a vehicle I always pay attention to how easily serviced it is.

Since the sensor wires for the throttle go through the firewall of the car, I'd rather not have to break a permanent connection every time I have to remove the controller. Not that I hope to be in that situation very often, but I do want the car to remain easy to work in even if the worst case scenario ever happens.

There will be bolt connections for the main battery leads and the wires from the motor to the controller.

That heat shrink looks great though. The stuff I am using is simply a cheap 2:1 shrink ratio with glue lining the inside (no solder).

[david85]

Here are some pictures of the motor mounts. They nearly killed me but now that its done, I'm very happy with how it turned out. The mounts are rock solid.

I later connected enough of the car wiring (12V systems) to get a reading off the speedometer, and well......RPM won't be a limiting factor. The speedometer can be burried in 5th gear. 2nd gear takes it up to about 70 KPH.

Have my doubts that the car will do 180kph that on the road but I have no idea how fast it will actuall go. Not gonna make any predictions

[david85]

Ok, it might not look like it right now, but this is where the home stretch is within view. I have the car on stands and the engine cradle/forward chassis is removed for some cleanup and paint. That was really the only part of the car other than the rear door sills that has any noticable rust. As always, I will use a fluid undercoating inside all the enclosed tubes of the frame after its painted.