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  #21  
Old 05-03-2010, 08:36 PM
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Default Re: dc-dc converter

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRP3 View Post
How about just running a small 12 volt battery, charged separately when you charge your pack?
dc-dc converter is smaller, lighter, and *never* has to be replaced....
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  #22  
Old 05-04-2010, 05:29 AM
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Default Re: dc-dc converter

As an alternative to the Vicor: Densei-Lambda (TDK-Lambda?)
Theses DC-converters (I got four of them) have although a great input range and a adjustable output.


300W (25A) per unit will be more than enough, so I can perhaps leave one out of the car.
Nice feature: If I wire them parallel, they will (hopefully) share the load.
I hope that this will hold the temperature down.
Everything theoretical, not tested yet.

TDK-Lambda:
http://us.tdk-lambda.com/lp/products/ph-series-ff.htm

documents:
http://us.tdk-lambda.com/lp/ftp/Specs/ph-ff.pdf
http://www.ic-on-line.cn/IOL/datashe...80-_278821.pdf
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  #23  
Old 05-04-2010, 05:46 AM
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Default Re: dc-dc converter

Quote:
Originally Posted by JRP3 View Post
How about just running a small 12 volt battery, charged separately when you charge your pack?
On the tractor I'm already planning on charging each of the pack batteries individually with one 12V charger, it would just add to the charge time.
For summer use/play it isn't a problem but later on in the year I want to have lights on in the evening and I have worked out that I will need a larger battery then I want to give space for. I will have a small battery but want the converter to charge it from the pack.

Mainly I wanted to use one just to see what they are like to use before I get a bigger more costly one for the car.

So I have figured out that most automotive stuff expects 13.8V and that 12V may cause a slightly low voltage to be seen and can't charge a battery.

What effect does isolation and no isolation cause?
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  #24  
Old 12-27-2011, 06:56 PM
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Default Re: dc-dc converter

Wow just learned about these things. I'm planning to convert mine from an Iota before it craps out.
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  #25  
Old 12-28-2011, 12:21 PM
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Default Re: dc-dc converter

I found some 150v@100watt vicor units for 20.00 each, so for the halibut I will put 2 in parrallel to make 200W as I rarely use headlights, only electric steering. Good experiment for $40.00

francis
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  #26  
Old 12-28-2011, 01:15 PM
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Default Re: dc-dc converter

Francis I don't think you're supposed to parallel these things like you do with batteries, if they're Vicor models anyway. They make a master and a slave unit for added watts. Just an FYI.
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  #27  
Old 12-28-2011, 01:22 PM
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Default Re: dc-dc converter

You can parallel the standard models, but putting a standard with a booster is more efficient.
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  #28  
Old 12-28-2011, 01:37 PM
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Default Re: dc-dc converter

Delete

francis

Last edited by spdas; 12-28-2011 at 01:39 PM. Reason: my internet is flaky
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  #29  
Old 12-28-2011, 01:38 PM
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Default Re: dc-dc converter

It will be a good test of these vicors. If no worky, then I will use one on my trike that SOMEDAY I will finish.
BTW. If you have an Iota 55 (1000watt unit) and using 100 watts, will it use more or less overall watts compared to a Vicor 100 watt unit putting out 100 watts?

Theory to me is that a car with a big V-8 motor will use more gas than a moped, both traveling at 30mph.

francis
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  #30  
Old 12-28-2011, 02:10 PM
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Default Re: dc-dc converter

Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectriCar View Post
Francis I don't think you're supposed to parallel these things like you do with batteries, if they're Vicor models anyway. They make a master and a slave unit for added watts. Just an FYI.
Nice thing about putting them in parallel is doubling the ah and being able to increase voltage to about 14.5v which is what we should all be using. Is very simple, been doing it sice 2002 on Li-ion conversions as only 12v-15v source without any batteries for system source..
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