[Rational]

Originally Posted by Joey

It will be a 911 afterall. I put a deposit on one today after work. I'll pick it up tomorrow. It is a 1983 SC and the condition was very nice. Service records going back over the last 40,000 miles.

On the 100 mile range, you have a good chance of getting better than 0.13 w-h/mile per pound of vehicle weight so for a 2200 lb vehicle you'd need 280 w-h.
Does that sound plausible?

And I can always use more [valid] data like that below\/

four wheeled electric vehicles
w-h/mile lbs w-h/mile-lb.. notes
217 .......2723 0.080 ............tesla roadster
275 .......4800 0.057 ...............truck
225
240
265
290 .......2020 0.144
300
310
320 .......3000 0.107
325
161 .......1250 0.129
400

3/4ths of the vehicles sampled did better than
312.5 w-h/mile
and better than
0.129 w-h/mile-lb

half the vehicles weighed between
3000
and
2020

[Rational]

Make that 28 kwh.
0.13*2200*100.

Seems I can't do arithmetic at this hour of the morning.

[dtbaker]

Originally Posted by Joey

It will be a 911 afterall. I put a deposit on one today after work. I'll pick it up tomorrow. It is a 1983 SC and the condition was very nice. Service records going back over the last 40,000 miles.

SWEET!

Your spec/expectations look about right. Lots of variables, and *your mileage may vary* But, I'd say you are safe with Warp9, Soliton, 156v worth of 180ah CALB to get well over 60 miles and probably closer to 80 depending on conditions and speed.

Was the engine blown, or still running? Did you get a good deal? how much?

[tomofreno]

100 mile range at what speed? I would guess to get that range at 60 mph and 80% DoD, no heater, no AC, you would need around a 32kWh pack. If you use the motor/controller dt suggested, you could use a 178V pack of 180Ah CALB to get the required kWh (the Soliton1 takes up to 340V I think) and limit the MOTOR voltage in the controller sw to about 160 - 170V (limit suggested by Jim Husted: http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...66&postcount=4) to protect against arcing brushes etc. Provided of course you can find room for 55 cells in the car and the money to pay for them.

[Joey]

Originally Posted by Rational

On the 100 mile range, you have a good chance of getting better than 0.13 w-h/mile per pound of vehicle weight so for a 2200 lb vehicle you'd need 280 w-h.
Does that sound plausible?

And I can always use more [valid] data like that below\/

280 w-h/mile does seem reasonable. I would expect anything between 200 and 325. I am hoping for 250. The car is probably closer to 2700 lbs. The weight creeps up the later you go in a car generation. The AC was removed, which saves a few lbs.

Originally Posted by dtbaker

SWEET!

Your spec/expectations look about right. Lots of variables, and *your mileage may vary* But, I'd say you are safe with Warp9, Soliton, 156v worth of 180ah CALB to get well over 60 miles and probably closer to 80 depending on conditions and speed.

Was the engine blown, or still running? Did you get a good deal? how much?

Thanks. The engine is in good working order. It car was in very good condition, inside and out. I paid $11,000. While not a steal, it was a good price. The cars I looked at in this condition, in my area, were listed as high as $16,000. I plan to sell the motor to offset some of the cost. I would have loved to find a deal on a 911 with a blown motor, but it seems motor condition and car condition are stronly correlated (at least over the 3 months I searched). Also, buying a car that doesn't drive adds risk in assessing the condition of the transmission, which I want to keep.

If a 100 mile range becomes an obsession (it allows me to get to the beach, and it sounds better - which is a consideration if promoting electric is a goal), I think adding 5 or 6 cells to the pack would do it. I will have to see how my budget is looking when the time comes to buy the batteries.

[Joey]

Originally Posted by tomofreno

100 mile range at what speed? I would guess to get that range at 60 mph and 80% DoD, no heater, no AC, you would need around a 32kWh pack. If you use the motor/controller dt suggested, you could use a 178V pack of 180Ah CALB to get the required kWh (the Soliton1 takes up to 340V I think) and limit the MOTOR voltage in the controller sw to about 160 - 170V (limit suggested by Jim Husted: http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...66&postcount=4) to protect against arcing brushes etc. Provided of course you can find room for 55 cells in the car and the money to pay for them.

Yes, I agree. Not sure if space or money will be limiting factor. 60 mile is the need. 100 miles is the want.

My 4 year old daughter loves the car, too. She asked Mommy if we now need to wear helmets when we drop her off at school. Sound like someone has been watching too many episodes of "Top Gear" on Netflix.

[PThompson509]

Something you will seriously want to do before doing ANYTHING to the car is to fix ALL of the 12v systems so they work perfectly. Since this is a relatively new car (unlike my 1975 914), you *shouldn't* have rust issues, but that should be looked for as well.

Take it to a Preferred Porsche Specialist for a very thorough checkout. You will find things you don't really want to know, but should.

As for the batteries, I second the recommendation to go higher in voltage - but keep it below 200v - there aren't many parts available to handle higher voltage (I'm all too aware of that - my pack is 370v).

Cheers,
Peter

[Rational]

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[cruisin]

Originally Posted by Joey

After 10 years, I'm finally able to begin my electric car conversion. My goals are 0-60 MPH in < 8 seconds, 100 mile range (60 is an absolute min) at 80% dod, >80 mph top speed, and 4 seats.

I've narrowed the donor car decision down to two: Porsche 944 or Porsche 911/912. I would prefer the 911, but not at the price they seem to be selling for in my area, $14 -20 k USD (1978-1989). The 944 goes for between $1,000 - $5,000 (1983-1987).

For components I don't think I will stray too far from what a lot of people have been doing:
9 inch Warp - keeping the clutch and flywheel
Soliton Jr, or Soliton1
56 cells at 130 aH CALB or 48 cells at 180 aH
Manzanita 20 - The idea of long recharging times (12 hours) doesn't bother me

Battery monitoring and instrumentation - not selected yet

I'm thinking that the batteries will be the system bottleneck and any money I can squeeze from the bugdet should go there. Not sure how many will fit without messing up the weight distribution too much.

Having to charge on the road for a long time will bother you I am sure. BAD decision on the charger. A 914 would be a much better donor car and a lot cheaoer than a 912/911.

[rwaudio]

Originally Posted by cruisin

Having to charge on the road for a long time will bother you I am sure. BAD decision on the charger. A 914 would be a much better donor car and a lot cheaoer than a 912/911.

How is the charger a bad choice if you don't know what charging station/electrical outlets are available? The PFC20 can max out a normal plug, if that is all that is available bigger helps how??

And for the car how is a 914 better than a 911? I can't stand the look of a 914, so I would never convert one, it's personal choice. Others don't like the 944 so they would never convert one. The best car for "you" is the car you will enjoy driving for the next decade or so, it could be a Bug, 911, 914, hummer or anything that fits you needs and wants.

If you have constructive input, like the transmission of a 911/912 won't last or shift or something related to an EV conversion then it may be useful to suggest one car over another, but it is very clear that the "dream car" is a 911 and unsupported comments about a 914 being better just don't seem to provide worthwhile input.

You may have valid points, but back them up and explain your reasoning, why is the charger a bad choice? What's wrong with a 911?