[Alex Everett]

I know it has four wheels but...
Starting out small here on a automobile conversion later in the year. My practice vehicle is a Riding Mower with blown engine.

I have ordered the motor (48 volt golf cart motor) on e-bay for $125.00 I have allready stripped the mower and have installed the battery racks and the batteries. Should have the wiring done this weekend. The question is....
do I really need a controller with this? I figure since the motor will be run full throttle at all times because the blades run off one belt and the selectable speed trans off the other.....

Any thoughts, Ideas, input......
I have a 48 volt on/off switch so I see no need in a controller.

[major]

Originally Posted by Alex Everett

<snip>
Any thoughts, Ideas, input......
I have a 48 volt on/off switch so I see no need in a controller.

Hey Alex,

I say you should use a controller. First, an "on/off" switch? You need a contactor. You switch 48 volts of battery across that motor and you'll draw hundreds of amps. That will fry a switch. Also, across the line starting like that will pull wheelies and break things. Motor controllers have a current limit and ramp-up features which are there for a reason.

Next, is that golf car motor series or SepEx? If it is a series motor and you run without a controller, try to shift on the fly, when you disengage the motor it will self destruct.

Next, does the motor have a drive end bearing? Most golf car motors pilot on the axle bearing.

Have fun with it, but be careful.

major

[Alex Everett]

Originally Posted by major

Hey Alex,

First, an "on/off" switch? You need a contactor. You switch 48 volts of battery across that motor and you'll draw hundreds of amps. That will fry a switch. Also, across the line starting like that will pull wheelies and break things. Motor controllers have a current limit and ramp-up features which are there for a reason.

Next, is that golf car motor series or SepEx? If it is a series motor and you run without a controller, try to shift on the fly, when you disengage the motor it will self destruct.

Next, does the motor have a drive end bearing? Most golf car motors pilot on the axle bearing.

Have fun with it, but be careful.

major

I should have been more specific, I have switch run to 48 volt snap contactor

belts for blades and tranny have pedal/arm release features that will release tension allowing motor to spin and that will slowly engage/disengage drive and blade components preventing wheelie. I.C.E. was 5000 r.p.m. Electric is 4000. R.P.M. and it is a series wound.

I am building mounting plate, adapter shaft with bearing for support of motor end.

I am thinking about an amperage limiter of some sort without purchase of a $300. controller

[JohninCR]

CloudElectric has Kelly controllers that will work for you for under $200. I picked up a 200A/100A 24-36V Kelly for $99 on sale a couple of months ago. I also picked up a brand new 350A 36-48V Curtis controller for $122 on Ebay in April.

I've got a 4hp powerpack motor that turns 17k rpms. I've spun it using a controller, but I can't imagine running it with a direct connection. Even if you can force yours to work without a controller, you'll want one eventually, so for personal safety as well as the safety of your motor, batteries and vehicle you might as well bite the bullet now.

Take care,

John

[major]

Originally Posted by Alex Everett

belts for blades and tranny have pedal/arm release features that will release tension allowing motor to spin and that will slowly engage/disengage drive and blade components preventing wheelie. I.C.E. was 5000 r.p.m. Electric is 4000. R.P.M. and it is a series wound.

I am thinking about an amperage limiter of some sort without purchase of a $300. controller

Hi Alex,

That's the problem. You cannot run the series motor at full voltage unloaded and then engage the load. The motor will overspeed and disassemble.

And what is an "amperage limiter"? A resistor?

Regards,

major

[Mastiff]

belts for blades and tranny have pedal/arm release features that will release tension allowing motor to spin and that will slowly engage/disengage drive and blade components preventing wheelie. I.C.E. was 5000 r.p.m. Electric is 4000. R.P.M. and it is a series wound.

You can NEVER, NEVER remove the load from a Series wound Electric motor.

If your running the Series wound motor and you let the load off of the motor it will spin up to 10,000+RPM and literally Arc and explode.
This will happen even with a controller.

You simply can not run a Series wound motor without a load on it.

I would look on Ebay for a cheap Altrax 48volt golf-cart controller, just to be safe and take better care of the batteries and motor.

[Alex Everett]

Originally Posted by major

Hi Alex,
And what is an "amperage limiter"? A resistor?

Regards,

major

I was thinking a resistor of some sort or a voltage regulator of some kind but now that others have chimed in on the "DO NOT DO THIS" bandwagon, I believe I'll go with a controller. I was just looking to save a greenback or two.

Us old folks sometimes get brain farts that lead us off to places we don't want to go......

[EL Escort]

Alex Everett

Starting out small here on a automobile conversion later in the year. My practice vehicle is a Riding Mower with blown engine.

I have ordered the motor (48 volt golf cart motor) on e-bay for $125.00 I have allready stripped the mower and have installed the battery racks and the batteries. Should have the wiring done this weekend

I'm just a few days behind you on the mower. I have the Club Car 48 volt motor. A couple of battery cores for the fit and need to follow up on 2 junk golf carts which hopefully one might have a Curtis controller on it. I'll post pics on my thread soon.

[Alex Everett]

Here are some pics of what I have up to now. No wiring in yet but hopefully this weekend I'll have it running

[Alex Everett]

Forgot to mention, The electric motor fits the opening that was made for the ICE and it is a perfec fit. Drill the holes, mount the plate with bearing on the bottom then add pully for belts.