[aproldan]

glad to see others taking interest in converting their rideons into electric... i have done 3 but only one for cutting the other 2 are for riding and hauling stuff... they are a lot of fun to convert and even more fun to ride... hope to be of anyhelp to others in here.... here is a link to one of my vids with all 3 tractors running
and my favorite one

[cgates30]

I'm interested in converting my Yardman Yardbug to electric. Can somebody point me in the right direction regarding the necessary components and good pieces of equipment to consider? Is a DC electric motor, switch/contactor, batteries and cable enough? Or do I need a motor controller? What about using the components from an old electric golf cart?

[Batterypoweredtoad]

Does anyone have a link to a source for individual deck/blade motors? I think surplus center used to carry them. One of the previous mower threads had a link, but none of my searches have turned up any results.
Thanks!

[DIYguy]

Originally Posted by cgates30

I'm interested in converting my Yardman Yardbug to electric. Can somebody point me in the right direction regarding the necessary components and good pieces of equipment to consider? Is a DC electric motor, switch/contactor, batteries and cable enough? Or do I need a motor controller? What about using the components from an old electric golf cart?

I haven't got into this yet...but I would like to do the same perhaps this winter. I think the system from a golf cart would be perfect. Motor, controller, contactor, pot etc.

[Jimdear2]

Originally Posted by DIYguy

I haven't got into this yet...but I would like to do the same perhaps this winter. I think the system from a golf cart would be perfect. Motor, controller, contactor, pot etc.

I just finished a conversion of an older Cub Cadet, The cub may not be one of the easiest tractor to convert, but when you are done you will have something that will last.

The one I did may have been over 40 years old and right now it runs and drives better then my one year old Husky. There are a wealth of parts and information available for the Cubs because of their toughness and the fact that they are one of the few tractors that will survive quarter scale tractor pulling.

You can generally find them without engines for $100.00 or less. They are very hard tractor to break so they can generally be broght back to life easily.

I used a rebuilt Prestolite HiLo pump motor and driect drive to the transaxle for mine, but the clutch and pressure plate system would be easy to adapt to an electric motor. I have an Alltrax 7245 controller and four 40ah agm batteries and a Tyco contactor. I put in an Albright Disconnect. I mounted all of the components under the hood on a plastic cutting board.

Two batteries went under the tractor on their sides in a combo footboard mountand battery rack and two under the seat/femder unit that doubles as a seat mount.

See the attached pictures of various stages of the conversion. Mine was done as a pulling tractor, and I think I can safely say it turnned out nice even with a quick rattle can paint job. You can see from a view of the transaxle why these things last, Thats a BIG lump of cast iron

Somre other tractors that should convert well are Wheelhorse, Allis Chalmers, Bolens, Sears Surburban and any other with a real steel frame cast iron transmission/axle and cast iron front axle.

If you want something that will last, stay away from hydros and anything with an aluminium transaxle unless you use a small motor, If you want something your grandkid will still be using, go with the older "real" garden tractors.

[cgates30]

That's a nice looking conversion you have there! Can you give more info on the conversion, maybe links for the parts and how much they should cost, etc?

Thanks!

[Jimdear2]

Originally Posted by cgates30

That's a nice looking conversion you have there! Can you give more info on the conversion, maybe links for the parts and how much they should cost, etc?

Thanks!

cgates30

I'll see what I can do tomorrow when I get home from work.

Jim

[slawking]

Originally Posted by zig06

I agree, do leave us hanging!, how did this work out? Any others out there with working EV mowers?

Here is a link to a video of my recently operating Sears Craftsman Conversion...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GEam4PWM2AA

- Bob

[PartsMan]

You really need constant rpm for the blades.
Has anybody done an inverter and AC motor?
It would try and run steady rpm all the time.

We have a John Deere 90 out back. It has separate blade motors.

If you are feeling lazy you could get this (caution product plug) http://www.hustlerturf.com/products....d=9&sobi2Id=19

[Dennis]

Way back when I was just a beginning member here I helped out someone who wanted a conversion with a tractor to electric. He needed a controller and wiring diagram to build his tractor. So I gave him a free Alltrax AXE4834 and give him a wiring diagram that I drew up in MS paint. So I suppose you guys are also looking for a wiring diagram. So here it is:







This circuit simply performs the AND function for safety as follows: the key switch, foot switch, seat switch, and throttle pot box lever switch must all be ON or HIGH in order for the lawn mower's traction motor to be active. The Key switch also engages the Negative side contactor. The reason a negative side contactor is used is so an extra safe guard is in place in case one of the contactors has a catastrophic failure such as welded contacts which makes it permanently ON. Also this actives the pre-charge circuit when the switch is turned on to avoid sparks being present when the user hooks up battery terminals to the batteries if this contactor was not present. Sparks at the batteries is not such a great idea so it also serves to reduce explosion hazards.

There is a warning that anyone who uses this wiring diagram should adhere to and that is the THE CONTROLLER MUST HAVE THE HIGH PEDDLE BEFORE POWER UP LOCK OUT ENABLED. FAILURE TO ENABLE THIS FEATURE IN THE CONTROLLER CAN RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH IN WHERE THE USER CAN HAVE ALL SAFETY SWITCHES ACTIVE EXCEPT THE KEY SWITCH WHICH THE USER MAY CUT THE KEY SWITCH TO THE "ON" POSITION RESULTING IN INSTANT TAKE OFF OF THE LAWN MOWER WITHOUT WARNING.