[GloballyWarmDude]

Sadly I must sell my Electric S-10. We are moving to an area that is way out of range for this vehicle to be able to make it to civilization
and back, let alone be able to make the trip at 30 below zero in the winter. We live in British Columbia (Canada) near Vancouver.

The truck has been terrific and absolutely problem free.

Specs that are important…

1995 Chevy S-10 5 speed manual with about 188K on it. The body is in pretty good shape. The only vehicle issue is that the anti-lock brakes
no longer anti-lock. There is a warning light that blinks all the time to warn about this. I suspect that it is caused by the fact that the
engine computer is gone.

The stickers that are on the vehicle can be removed.

Zilla Z1K LV motor controller. Recently upgraded to the –A version. This allows for a switch to be installed that will make the tachometer
read RPM or Amps on the fly.

Manzanita PFC-30 charger. Charge time from empty on 220 volt supply is about 4 to 4 1/2 hours. This charger has the terrific advantage in
that you do not need to change anything if you plug into 110 or 220 volt supply lines. Just plug it in to either voltage and it will charge
up. Slower on 110 of course. If you do blow a fuse on the input there is a current control knob that allows you to turn the charger down so
that it does not blow fuses. The charger is currently very well aligned with the batteries. A gender bender is included for 110 volt
connections. There is a safety relay in place that prevents the vehicle from moving if the land line is plugged in. This charger also has
built into it the BatReg interface for easy upgrade to Lithium Ion batteries. LiOn batteries need more controls than lead acid.

26 6V deep discharge (golf cart) flooded batteries in very good condition. Battery pack is 156 volts 232 AH and all batteries are less than
1 year old. No melted terminals or replacement batteries in the time I have owned it and all cells read the correct voltage. There are no
known issues with them. I have run a range test recently and I made it to 77K with 115 amp hours consumed from the batteries. The terrain
was a bit hilly, certainly not flat. Having the tachometer display the amps is a huge advantage for maximizing range.

Xantrex Link-10 power meter. This meter automatically resets to zero after a completed charge cycle.

Advanced DC 9”

4 new tires with less than 1000K on them, high pressure, low Rolling Resistance type (44 PSI).

Rear suspension upgrade.

Electric heater (of course). The vacuum system is properly connected so if you change from defrost to heater then the air output does move
accordingly.

The flywheel has been balanced so I am able to spin the motor up to a fairly high RPM when required without significant vibration. This also
helps to make the vehicle very quiet even for an EV.

The only service or repair issue I have had was a melted terminal on the motor. I am certain that it was caused by my not tightening it in
the first place. This incident happened within a few days of the conversion. Since the repair there have been no issues.

Tachometer reads motor amps or RPM per a setting in the Zilla. A switch can be installed for on the fly display change.

Speedometer does work as it is driven by a Dakota Digital box. The engine computer was removed which used to drive the speedo.

The vacuum pump is mounted under the box in the back and I don’t hear it at all unless I am stationary and the windows are open.

If you would like a better look then go to http://youtube.com/user/globallywarmdude I can honestly say that it breaks my heart to sell it. The only reason I can live with this decision is because we are building an off-grid, passively solar heated home. Earthship style if you are interested.

Asking price is 24K. Call me if you have any questions

jp2mackay@dccnet.com I have put the digit "2" into my e-mail address to prevent spam. Just remove it before you send. (604) 886-5826 (Peter)