[EVDL List]

I hope this doesn't become a black hole of technical detail, but I'm
looking for what I hope is a simple answer.

I have one of the few remaining logisystems controllers that is still
running. It's a 120-144V model set up for a max of 750 Amps. There is no
user interface (i.e., you can't plug into it to get any readings on the
internal workings). I'm running a 120V system (floodies) and using a PB-6
potbox.

Mike Nickerson and I have been trying to trouble shoot a current drain in
my system and one of the things we want to try is to make sure we have a
proper pre-charge resistor on the contactor (only have one contactor).
There is "something" that looks like a pre-charge resistor in there at the
moment but it is unmarked. Mike says it could also be one of a couple of
other things.

here's my page: http://www.evalbum.com/3739

I know there has been some debate about whether or not you need a
pre-charge resistor for Logisystems controllers, but I'm going to assume
that I do. As far as I've been able to determine the company is defunct
and they will therefore be of no help. The very skimpy manual I have for
the controller is silent on the subject.

BUT assuming I need one, what do I need to install? In other words,* what
size (watts and ohms) of pre-charge resistor should I put there?*

I searched the archives and there was a discussion of this a few years ago,
but it came to no real resolution (i.e., no bottom line recommendation).

I remember hearing somewhere that Logisystems essentially copied the Curtis
controller and tweaked it a bit (sorry I don't remember where I heard or
read that). The nearest equivalent Curtis controller to mine seems to be
the 1231-8601 which is a 550 Amp model for up to 144V. Curtis recommends
a 25 watt, 750 ohm resistor for that model. Could I go wrong by putting
one of those in?

Please don't ask a lot of technical questions because I probably won't know
most of the answers.

Again, the question is: *what size of pre-charge resistor should I put in?*


- Peter Flipsen Jr
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[EVDL List]

[quote]SLPinfo.org wrote:
> I have one of the few remaining logisystems controllers that is
> still running. It's a 120-144V model set up for a max of 750 Amps...
> I'm running a 120V system (floodies)... we want to try is to make
> sure we have a proper pre-charge resistor on the contactor (only have
> one contactor). here's my page: http://www.evalbum.com/3739
>
> I know there has been some debate about whether or not you need a
> pre-charge resistor for Logisystems controllers, but I'm going to
> assume that I do...

Assume that you do. It can't hurt, and in my opinion, it will
significantly reduce the chances of your controller failing!

> what do I need to install?

It's not a difficult problem. The simple answer is that *ANY* precharge
resistor is better than none!

You need two parts: A resistor of some kind, and a relay.

Resistor: My favorite is an ordinary 120v light bulb. Any wattage from
25w to 100w will work. I like to use a "ruggedized" one intended for
garage door openers and work lights that get knocked around. It's cheap,
easy to get, and provides a visual indicator.

Or, you can get a "real" resistor. Anything from about 100 to 500 ohms
will work fine. But it needs to be high wattage; at least 20 watts for a
500 ohm resistor, or 100 watts for a 100 ohm resistor. If something goes
wrong and the controller won't precharge, this resistor will get hot. If
the wattage is too low, it will get *flaming hot* i.e. it could start a
fire.

Relay: One that is easy to chassis-mount, with a 12vdc coil, and a
2-pole normally-open contact (DPST) rated for at least 240vac 5amps.

Wire both contacts of the relay and the resistor in series. Connect this
series group across the main contactor.

Wire the coil of the relay to a 12v circuit that is only on when the key
is on.

When the key is off, you should have no power at the controller B+ and
B- terminals.

When you turn the key on, the relay pulls in and connects the precharge
resistor. If it's a light bulb, you'll see it momentarily light and then
go out. The controller now has pack voltage on its B+ and B- inputs, and
you're ready to go.

If the bulb lights and *stays* lit, something is wrong.

Your main contactor's coil should be wired through the switch on the
potbox. When the throttle is released, the contactor is off. It only
closes when you step on the throttle.

Make sense? Let's start wiring!
--
If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it?
-- Albert Einstein
--
Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart at earthlink.net

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[EVDL List]

Thanks much Lee.

-Peter
[quote] "Lee Hart" <xxx@xxx.xxx> wrote:

> SLPinfo.org wrote:
> > I have one of the few remaining logisystems controllers that is
> > still running. It's a 120-144V model set up for a max of 750 Amps...
> > I'm running a 120V system (floodies)... we want to try is to make
> > sure we have a proper pre-charge resistor on the contactor (only have
> > one contactor). here's my page: http://www.evalbum.com/3739
> >
> > I know there has been some debate about whether or not you need a
> > pre-charge resistor for Logisystems controllers, but I'm going to
> > assume that I do...
>
> Assume that you do. It can't hurt, and in my opinion, it will
> significantly reduce the chances of your controller failing!
>
> > what do I need to install?
>
> It's not a difficult problem. The simple answer is that *ANY* precharge
> resistor is better than none!
>
> You need two parts: A resistor of some kind, and a relay.
>
> Resistor: My favorite is an ordinary 120v light bulb. Any wattage from
> 25w to 100w will work. I like to use a "ruggedized" one intended for
> garage door openers and work lights that get knocked around. It's cheap,
> easy to get, and provides a visual indicator.
>
> Or, you can get a "real" resistor. Anything from about 100 to 500 ohms
> will work fine. But it needs to be high wattage; at least 20 watts for a
> 500 ohm resistor, or 100 watts for a 100 ohm resistor. If something goes
> wrong and the controller won't precharge, this resistor will get hot. If
> the wattage is too low, it will get *flaming hot* i.e. it could start a
> fire.
>
> Relay: One that is easy to chassis-mount, with a 12vdc coil, and a
> 2-pole normally-open contact (DPST) rated for at least 240vac 5amps.
>
> Wire both contacts of the relay and the resistor in series. Connect this
> series group across the main contactor.
>
> Wire the coil of the relay to a 12v circuit that is only on when the key
> is on.
>
> When the key is off, you should have no power at the controller B+ and
> B- terminals.
>
> When you turn the key on, the relay pulls in and connects the precharge
> resistor. If it's a light bulb, you'll see it momentarily light and then
> go out. The controller now has pack voltage on its B+ and B- inputs, and
> you're ready to go.
>
> If the bulb lights and *stays* lit, something is wrong.
>
> Your main contactor's coil should be wired through the switch on the
> potbox. When the throttle is released, the contactor is off. It only
> closes when you step on the throttle.
>
> Make sense? Let's start wiring!
> --
> If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it?
> -- Albert Einstein
> --
> Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart at earthlink.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
> | Please take those discussions elsewhere. Thanks.
> |
> | REPLYING: address your message to xxx@xxx.xxx.edu only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
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>
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| Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
| Please take those discussions elsewhere. Thanks.
|
| REPLYING: address your message to xxx@xxx.xxx.edu only.
| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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[EVDL List]

I have a pre-charge resister on my logisystems controller. I do not remember exactly, I think around 500 ohms.
damon

> Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 08:26:01 -0600
> From: xxx@xxx.xxx
> To: xxx@xxx.xxx.edu
> Subject: Re: [EVDL] pre-charge resistor for logisystems controller??? Help please!
>
> Thanks much Lee.
>
> -Peter
> [quote] "Lee Hart" <xxx@xxx.xxx> wrote:
>
> > SLPinfo.org wrote:
> > > I have one of the few remaining logisystems controllers that is
> > > still running. It's a 120-144V model set up for a max of 750 Amps...
> > > I'm running a 120V system (floodies)... we want to try is to make
> > > sure we have a proper pre-charge resistor on the contactor (only have
> > > one contactor). here's my page: http://www.evalbum.com/3739
> > >
> > > I know there has been some debate about whether or not you need a
> > > pre-charge resistor for Logisystems controllers, but I'm going to
> > > assume that I do...
> >
> > Assume that you do. It can't hurt, and in my opinion, it will
> > significantly reduce the chances of your controller failing!
> >
> > > what do I need to install?
> >
> > It's not a difficult problem. The simple answer is that *ANY* precharge
> > resistor is better than none!
> >
> > You need two parts: A resistor of some kind, and a relay.
> >
> > Resistor: My favorite is an ordinary 120v light bulb. Any wattage from
> > 25w to 100w will work. I like to use a "ruggedized" one intended for
> > garage door openers and work lights that get knocked around. It's cheap,
> > easy to get, and provides a visual indicator.
> >
> > Or, you can get a "real" resistor. Anything from about 100 to 500 ohms
> > will work fine. But it needs to be high wattage; at least 20 watts for a
> > 500 ohm resistor, or 100 watts for a 100 ohm resistor. If something goes
> > wrong and the controller won't precharge, this resistor will get hot. If
> > the wattage is too low, it will get *flaming hot* i.e. it could start a
> > fire.
> >
> > Relay: One that is easy to chassis-mount, with a 12vdc coil, and a
> > 2-pole normally-open contact (DPST) rated for at least 240vac 5amps.
> >
> > Wire both contacts of the relay and the resistor in series. Connect this
> > series group across the main contactor.
> >
> > Wire the coil of the relay to a 12v circuit that is only on when the key
> > is on.
> >
> > When the key is off, you should have no power at the controller B+ and
> > B- terminals.
> >
> > When you turn the key on, the relay pulls in and connects the precharge
> > resistor. If it's a light bulb, you'll see it momentarily light and then
> > go out. The controller now has pack voltage on its B+ and B- inputs, and
> > you're ready to go.
> >
> > If the bulb lights and *stays* lit, something is wrong.
> >
> > Your main contactor's coil should be wired through the switch on the
> > potbox. When the throttle is released, the contactor is off. It only
> > closes when you step on the throttle.
> >
> > Make sense? Let's start wiring!
> > --
> > If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research, would it?
> > -- Albert Einstein
> > --
> > Lee A. Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, leeahart at earthlink.net
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
> > | Please take those discussions elsewhere. Thanks.
> > |
> > | REPLYING: address your message to xxx@xxx.xxx.edu only.
> > | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> > | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> > | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
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> >
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[EVDL List]

On Sat, Jun 23, 2012 at 08:27:49PM +0000, damon henry wrote:
>
> I have a pre-charge resister on my logisystems controller. I do not remember exactly, I think around 500 ohms.
> damon

With no pre-charge resistors, I went through about five Logisystem
failures. :-(

I still have two freshly repaired Logisystems. If there are any takers
out there.

--
Willie, ONWARD! Through the fog!
http://counter.li.org Linux registered user #228836 since 1995
Debian3.1/GNU/Linux system uptime 95 days 10 hours 42 minutes

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