[goglahey]

Hi All

I have a Kazuma Cougar 250 Road legal! I wish to convert for my first EV project.
The original rebuild project was a Honda 1000cc engine on the Cougar, but already having done similar projects I wanted something new.
One evening watching discovery science (my favorite and only tv channel) mean green machines was on with the killacycle, and I was sold for an EV conversion J
After next time seeing mean green machines, and seeing the poorest attempt to make a ev atv i decided I could do better, or at least I hope.
Coming from the dragracing world and having allot of friends that think the idea is stupid, so I’m hoping to prove them wrong.

Skills:
Years as a dragracing mechanic on 2-8cyl up to 1500hp+, turbo/compressor, Nos, Data loggers, and little ECU programming with direct injection.
Rebuild several cars, bikes and atv. So I should be covered on ICE engines.

I have a 5 year degree in IT, and is currently a it department in a power distributer company (so i have allot of engineers at hand to help me out)

EV skills:
Very slim(or none)
Have done some c+ programming, and have had electronics classes as a kid, so I’m pretty god at soldering J


Parts I have already considered:

- 4 x Lifebatt XPS1E-14410144V/10Ah packs (maybe 5 packs depending on if there is enough amps)

- One L91-4003 (I like this motor for the HP, but dislike that I can’t use regen on it)

- Thinking of a Kelly converter but don’t know which one


Range:
100km on half voltage, I have no estimate on full throttle all the time.

Power:
What is possible with the setup?

Economy:
10.000usd on the engine, battery and controller. Seperat budget for other parts.

Weight:
I'm hopeing to keep it under 300kg. (the chassi is 70kg without engine and gas)

I have allot of future plans and projects for the quad, so I don’t want to get stuck with the wrong engine or battery types.
Although I don’t want to aim to high with the project in the beginning, so I don’t get stuck in it being to complex. For now the EV conversion is step one. Step two: Regen and super/ultra caps.

Maybe i have to cut back on the batteries, depending on the price, but want the correct engine to start with. Are there any alternative specs wise to the L91-4003 with regen possibility?

Regards
Allan, Denmark

[Bentzon]

Hej

Nice with some more danes converting even with our crazy road safety rules

For a ATV I would go with a permanet magnet motor like the AGNI or LEMCO. They can put out about 30HP peak , or more if you push them,and good enough amount of tourqe for light vehicles. If you need more power just run two of them in series or parrallel.
They do regen and offer the best power to weight ration and efficiency around.

Got one my self in my yamaha tdr 125 conversion and its about as fast as the original 30hp 125cc 2 stoke engine at only 300A peak. The AGNI will take 400 for short periods.
I got a kelly 500A controller my self and it works very nicely but dont trust their Amp ratings.

Insted of lifebatt why not headway 10Ah cells? they are cheaper and perform almost as good. They got them at evcomponents.com

With a 10kusd budget you could build something like a 144v 40Ah headway pack to power dual agni motors that would make a kickass atv

If you want long range sky energy or thudnersky is probably more affordable but wont give you the high amount of amps like the lifebatt or headway.

[goglahey]

Hi Bentzon

Thanks for your reply

We do have crazy laws when looking at automotive regulations.
But i found some holes in the law regarding road legal quads and Ev's.

For example if a quad have a TÜV approval, then all other laws regarding cars does not apply because they are in special category in Denmark. That’s why Chinese crap atv’s can be registered as road legal.

Also EV’s are tax free until 2012, because they think that there will be so many EV’s at that time that it will make a hole in the budget from lack off fax from ICE autos.

So I need to build my EV before 2012 if I want to make my oven chassi, instead of the Kazuma Chassis I have now. (that’s the dream J)

I have been looking at the Agni 143, peak 35kw an 100nm that’s sounds nice. Maybe 2 depending on the price/weight and if the battery pack can take it. I don’t want more that 150kg of engine and batteries, but I think that is fast spend.

About the motor: how can I compare the speed and strength of the motor to an ice engine? Because the Agni 143 has the same nm as a brand new 1000cc but the Hp as an old 400cc, so how do that work? Would that be like an diesel engine sort off pull?

And where can I find it, I only found the Agni 119 reinforced at http://www.electricracebikes.com/ev-products.html, pretty god specs, but I want the most powerfull motor I can get.

[Bentzon]

Wouldnt you still need a tuv or similar new aproval for the electric conversion to get it road legal? I would guess a tuv approval for a converted vehicle is not cheap.
I havent looked into getting my tdr road legel yet.

I got the 95 reinforced motor. It does 71rpm/V and will do max. 6000rpm and can take 400A for up to 2mins if I remember correctly. The higher rpm allows for direct drive with decent top speed and acceleration.
Geared for a top speed around 130km/h with direct drive this motor performs pretty much like a 30-35hp motorcycle engine. With a gearbox you could probably increase acceleration and top speed but its more complicated and less efficient. I would go for dual motors instead of a gearbox.

If you plan to build a 144v 40-50Ah system with lifebatt or similar cells like headway, powering dual motors like the agni wont be a problem. These cells are rated for 10c peak(or more) so that would give you 400-500A at peak from the battery. 144V*400A*0,8(My guess at overall efficiency) = 46kW

I think 150kgs for motor+battery is very possible:

2x11kgs agni motors = 22kgs
240x0,3kgs headway 10A cells = 72kgs

Add weight of controller, cables, sprockets/gear, other electronics like dc/dc and bms and it wouldnt be more than 110-120kgs is my guess.

Just contact stybrook directly for a order.

http://www.agnimotors.com/home/index...d=36&Itemid=73

[goglahey]

Just spendt 2 hours on a post and the post got wiped

[goglahey]

I only need a TÜV if the HP is more than 20% of the orginal HP.
But i don't intend to buy TÜV for the kazuma conversion. Besides the TÜV people can't tell how many HP the engine has and they can't bench it anyway.

I have been told that a TÜV for a motorcycle is 30.000usd WOW . But then you can call yourself a manufacture, and call it want you want.

With the EV the TÜV price is much less because of no engine testing. Also with no tax on EV undtil 2012 the price would be more than the double of the orginal selling price. (100% of the first 60.000dkk and 180% of the rest of the selling value)

So with a EV i think it could actualy be achievable, without selling my house.

I know the agni 95 is reinforced and proven very well, but i like to se the specs on the 143.
I'm hoping more like 70kw and 200nm. That will probely need a 1000amp controller and i haven't found a regen kind for this yet. Also this would probely not be realistic with the batterypack i have in mind. The 143 also rund 84v at the max so i could have lower voltage packs with more amps.

I have written to stybrooks about specs on weight, dimentions, price and shipping on the 143.

The agni 143 only runs 4500rpm so i would probely need a gearing/transmission on it.
I'm looking at a CVT model for this from an atv or snowmobile. (Maybe dual cvt because of IRS and the need for a Diff or two chain/sprockets)
But i need to do the math on i first.

According to agni faq: if km/h * total weigth = more than 30000 i would need a transmission. If a can hold 200kg (150+50kg chassi on the final model) i could be possible running 150km/h with the engine directly mounted.
I'm thinking on running 17" wheels so i need to figure out gearing on it before i decide.

One thing i'm learning about EV's is every component is dependent on eachother. You don't know the km/h without knowing the V/amp's of the engine and it needs the V/amp's on the batts, and they impact on the km/h on the kilos and then you start over again. And then is the gearing end the KW on the engine part. OMG!

Thanks for the replys and sorry for the poor english, i wrote it quite fast the second time.

/Allan