[TTmartin]

Originally Posted by Woodsmith

Another idea would be to turn your motor upside down so the foot is at the top. You can then go straight from the foot to the rubber mount. It does mean the terminals are underneath but that shouldn't be an issue if you can get to them from under the car.

Good call from woodsmith putting motor upside down, but if you don't want connection box at the bottom you could also mount the motor so the feet are at 90degrees to the ground then fab steel work to suit

[Woodsmith]

I guess it depends on how waterproof the engine bay is!

Side ways would work well but could make the mounting design awkward due to the torque that the weight would impose on the mounting frame, needs to be very stiff to counter that.

[tomcameron]

what I could do is: get my metal parts from punchbag mounts? they can lift up to 150Kg to 200Kg. the motor is 65Kg. if I cut it to lenght, so the welder could create a frame for it.
will this be lighter and a cheaper that angle iron? angle iron will do the job but it is very heavy.

[tomcameron]

or howabout a ladder or a ladder stand

will this do the job, way cheaper than angle iron

http://www.amazon.co.uk/V-Type-Ladde..._sim_sbs_diy_2

[Ziggythewiz]

You really can't be comparing stationary load ratings with motor mounts. I think you're best off using what's there. It shouldn't be too difficult to protect the terminals.

[Woodsmith]

If cost is an issue you could source your steel from a scrap yard, that is how I get pretty much all of the stock for my tractor and trike projects.

If it were me I would use square box section steel, probably 1 1/2" x 1/8" thick.

Mount the motor sideways, bolt two bits of box section to the foot mount so that they point upwards to the same height as the rubber mount. Join them at the top, with more box section, to form and inverted 'U'. Then take two more lengths of box section, to the mount, forming a triangle. Then triangulate the triangle to the upright box section near to the motor foot.

It all depends on how much space you have above the motor and if you have any plans to use that space for the controller or batteries.


I would avoid using bits of ladder or ladder stand off brackets. The aluminium, if you can weld it, is a bit on the soft side.

[tomcameron]

Had a look in the engine bay and I think it would be best to turn the motor upside down and using box section. Do you think the feet would still be good to take the weight, it doesn't say in the manual to not place it upside down?
Also it would cut the wieght of the mount more than 1/2. With the motors feet faceing up it gives a flat surface for my batties to sit on.
I don't want to put the batties up front because it's dangerous in case of a crash.

thanks guys, i think that's the way to go.

[jk1981]

It's not just the motor weight you need to support, equally important is the very large gearbox output torque.

Where are the original mounts, above the gearbox, above the ICE cam drive and low on the firewall?

jk

[Ziggythewiz]

I like batteries in the front, they'll go through the other guy's car before I do.

[tomcameron]

of coures, I will make sure that everything is is safe, with the right mounts and torque bars.
I will get it checked so its safe to use on the road aswell.