[toddshotrods]

First, the name "Inhaler" is meant to suggest that the car is like a medicinal inhaler for an ailing atmosphere.

I decided to take a few steps back and build a slightly more conventional hot rod first. The goal is a very light, really powerful, street-legal, electric, race car; in vintage American form. As for what the actual body, and registered make/model, will be: right I am leaning heavily towards a 23 Ford Model T, using a cheap aftermarket T-bucket body, turtle deck and custom nose, to start developing it. I say to start because after all the changes are made, molds would be taken for a carbon fiber or aluminum body.

The chassis is already under construction. It's a custom built frame with 2x3" rails, and 4-link GM (G-body) rear suspension. I still have to do the front suspension, which I think will be SLA IFS. It's currently in storage, as I relocated about five months ago. I should be going to get it soon, and will have pics then.

The theme for the vehicle is a heavy 60s Indy Car influence without loosing the identity of the original car. There will be a lot of things done to it that are contradictory to conventional EV think, such as wide tires for traction. This vehicle is first and foremost a marketing tool for me to promote my design skills, but I am also taking the opportunity to promote EVs seriously.

On to the technical side of things: I am guesstimating a final weight under 1200lbs. It will be a conventional front-engine/rear-drive layout, with the electric motor up front driving a solid rear-end in back. In between, I am planning to use a 3spd manual transmission as a mode selector. First gear will provide gearing for maximum acceleration, second for general driving, and third for top speed runs.

I waited until something actually happened beyond ideas and designs to post this thread, and today a truck brought this:



The plan is to use it as-is to get the car setup, and actually functional (at golf cart speeds) during events. Later I will have it rebuilt into a full-on race motor. I have a 300amp Alltrax AXE 4834 coming to go with the motor in the exhibition phase, and plan to run 48 volts of flooded cells. When I get to the racing aspect, I plan to run LiFePO4s.

When the guy actually rolled this thing in the garage I was grinning from ear to ear! Since my early conversations with JR3P about building an EV, I have been drooling over the thought of an 11" motor, and seeing it in person was beyond awesome. It's HUGE!!!

After I get the car here the next step is getting the motor hooked up to the transmission, and installed in the car. For that I will be doing a custom coupler and adapter. The coupler looks like pretty straight-forward fabrication stuff. The output shaft is drilled and tapped already in the end, which makes my idea for connecting the coupler very easy. I am going to design the coupler to fit all the way onto the shaft, with adequate clearance for the bearing, and be secured with a bolt that fits into the aforementioned threaded hole. This will positively lock the coupler, without worry of a set screw working loose. If possible, I will also try to set it up so the transmission input shaft is close enough to the lock bolt to prevent it from backing out - should Loctite Red, and a tapered seat, fail. I may start on CAD models of this setup soon.

As for the adapter plate: it will most likely be a fully CNC-machined custom part. I am itching to get started on the model, but can't do that until I get the transmission here.

Thoughts, comments?

[toddshotrods]

A question for those with experience with used forklift motors: What's the thing on the comm end?

[major]

Originally Posted by toddshotrods

A question for those with experience with used forklift motors: What's the thing on the comm end?

Looks like the parking brake to me.

[toddshotrods]

Originally Posted by major

Looks like the parking brake to me.

Edited to say: Yup, that's what it is. It works too, and has me thinking about keeping it. If it could hold a forklift, it should be able to manage my little 1200lb toy.

[toddshotrods]

Controller for the first phase arrived today.


If everything goes according to plans, I hope to get going on the chassis next week. Some parts I need for the front suspension are supposed to be here Saturday and, as soon as I get it rolling, the motor installation will begin. My goal is to be able to drive the chassis around the parking lot before the end of June; then get started on the bodywork.

[toddshotrods]

The parts are slowly trickling in, and I need some guidance to buy more stuff, so that when the chassis gets here (hopefully next week) I'll have enough stuff to keep the progress going until it actually moves.

1. Since my ultimate goal is ultra high performance, but my immediate need is for it to be able to cruise around at events under its own power, should I wire it now for the high volt/high amp intended purpose, or just wire it for what I have now? I know the lighter gauge cables can't be used safely beyond their limits, but is there any penalty for using the heavier gauge with low voltage/amperage?
2. Are there any specific types of wire and cable that need to be used, or is it just mainly an issue of size and capacity?
3. The wiring diagram for the AXE 4834 specifies the wire gauges for the battery pack to controller cables, but not for wiring the main and pot switches - any recommendations?
4. I am using the simplest version, with no reverse, because I have reverse on the transmission, and because I want the neatest, cleanest, installation possible. It shows a 6amp diode for reverse protection between the main switch and the fuse. Do I need this and, if so, where do I get one? I haven't seen one on any of the EV sites I have links to.
5. The diagram shows A1, A2, S1 and S2 for the motor terminals, but my motor has A1, A2, F1 and F2. Is my assumption to substitute F1 and F2 for S1 and S2 correct?
6. There is also a symbol with the word "FIELD" between the S1 and S2 terminals. What is this, and how do I do it if needed?

Here is a link to the acual PDF wirng diagram.

Here's a screen capture jpeg of it:

[JRP3]

Wire it for the maximum current now if you can afford to, there is no penalty for over sized wires, other than cost and some weight, but not that much.

You want fine strand flexible wire, usually welding cable is used.

S and F are interchangeable.

The "Field" symbol represents the field inside the motor, not an external connection you have to make.

[JRP3]

I used boat trailer wiring for the low voltage stuff. I didn't use a reverse diode, or a foot switch, or interlocks, just a key switch to power up the controller.

[toddshotrods]

Cool, I'm going the same way then. I had already ruled out the foot switch, from our previous conversations, and if I don't have to have the other stuff it won't be included. I'll be making my own "pot box".

What the heck is an Interlock anyway?

This makes my wiring nice and simple, it should be a really clean installation.

Thanks!

[JRP3]

The "Interlocks" are probably one or more safety switches, like a seat switch or something, that a golf cart might use as extra safety features. You might want to use a hidden switch somewhere that needs to be on to run the vehicle as a theft preventative, and/or one easily accessible to kill power to the contactor in case of an emergency. DC controllers tend to fail full on when they fail so killing power quickly is important. Most people also use a physical disconnect in case your contactor gets welded shut.