[pedm]

My Kelly HSE 14801 for SepEx (kostov 9'' 120v). Blown up from the inside... what could it be?

It was programmed at 25% and regen. It was taking 120 Amps maximum.

I made a test whit the car, and after arriving to the garage, turned it off. Gone to my living room left the things over the sofa, came back to the car to put in the garage. Turned it back on, the car slided back a bit (i live on a hill), pressed the throttle and the circuit breaker turned off. Something wrong appened, so I followed all the cables and terminals to see if something was wrong, found nothing. Turned the circuit breaker back on. After turned the key on, the controller made an explosion and a lot of black smoke came from its inside.

Before that test it was at 20% of it's power and also I tested it more than one time.

I see people complaining about his controllers. Or it was my fault?

I was thinking about many possibilities to have caused this:
- Because the regen function was activated, and the car was sliding back, pressing the throttle might have shorted something?
- Bad insulation from kelly assembly to the chassis of the car, I mounted the kelly assembly (comes in a metal plate) directly to the structure I made.
- I live on the top of a hill, it was taking 120 amps continuously to climb during 3 minutes before arriving home. Turning back on with the controller hot maybe have caused any problem.


Possible Solutions:
- Opening the controller by myself and trying to fix it, because I lose the contact from kelly.
- Buy a new controller that is rated for my battery pack 120v 100AH HiPower.
- Or send it back to Kostov to wire it in series... more easy to find controllers.

I read somewhere that if F1 and F2 where disconnected it can send all the power to the motor, is it true? The F1 and F2 are connected but if it disconnected for an instace? Does the controller motorize it?

Thanks

[major]

Originally Posted by pedm

My Kelly HSE 14801 for SepEx (kostov 9'' 120v). Blown up from the inside... what could it be?....
<snip>
I see people complaining about his controllers. Or it was my fault?.....

Too bad pedm

That does seem to happen with his controllers too often. I would not consider it your fault from what you've said and from the appearance of your conversion. I would not attempt a repair to the controller. Send it back to Kelly and insist they make it right.

Also, F1 and F2 need be powered on the motor for it to function. Do not attempt to run the motor without proper power to the field (F1, F2).

Good luck,

major

[Ziggythewiz]

Did you precharge?

[pedm]

Originally Posted by major

Too bad pedm

That does seem to happen with his controllers too often. I would not consider it your fault from what you've said and from the appearance of your conversion. I would not attempt a repair to the controller. Send it back to Kelly and insist they make it right.

Also, F1 and F2 need be powered on the motor for it to function. Do not attempt to run the motor without proper power to the field (F1, F2).

Good luck,

major

Thanks Major,



It worked with the 12v PWR. I also changed the programing to 20% no regen. But after applying the 120v it started to burn from the inside again .

Now I have to call some friends to help to push the car for 5 meters into the garage. Thinking the positive way, at least it is at home.

[pedm]

It has a precharge resitance. That came with the HSE assembly:

[pedm]

Originally Posted by Ziggythewiz

Did you precharge?

It happens when the capacitors are not fully charged?

I connected the positive terminal of DC/DC converter to the controller terminal... that could cause this to happens.

I had the DC/DC + connection to the red arrow (at the fuse) and before making that test I changed to the green arrow(controller terminal):



Maybe this change was fatal to the controller.

When it was at the fuse the 12v Battery was always charging, to avoid that I changed to near the contactor to be sure that it just start to charge after turning the key on. Maybe I made a big mistake. So It was charging the battery instead of the capacitors?

[Ziggythewiz]

Originally Posted by pedm

It happens when the capacitors are not fully charged?

Just a possibility. The current slam w/o precharge certainly isn't good for a controller; shouldn't blow it just once, but one of few faults I could think of in a non/low load condition. Also, if it's a manual precharge it would be more likely forgotten after a quick run into the house.

Is the precharge always on then? If so the DC-DC would not be switched as you thought, but always sort of on.

[pedm]

Originally Posted by Ziggythewiz

Is the precharge always on then? If so the DC-DC would not be switched as you thought, but always sort of on.

No, precharge is only on when I switched the car key, and the contractor closes.

[major]

Originally Posted by pedm

No, precharge is only on when I switched the car key, and the contractor closes.

So you have another contactor?

[Ziggythewiz]

Precharge is what happens before the contactor closes. From the image it appears you have the precharge resistor hardwired across the contactor, so unless you have a secondary contactor that engages before that one, it's always precharging.