[onegreenev]

Here is an image of my Kelly on a huge heat sink. It IS needed.

Pete

Shameless plug: It is for sale.

[pedm]

The controller don't even gets hot.

Now I am having another problem with the controller.
Kelly have a great support and they are trying to find the solution.

But maybe someone have experienced the same problem, so I won't have to sent it back to them again.

The controller is giving an Internal Reset after pressing the throttle and also after getting the green light. The motor don't even spins.

I tested the motor with a 12v battery, and it works.

I tested the PB-6 and got a the precise readings: 1.61 to 4.23 kohms with no OL between, always constant...

The batteries are discharging for DC/DC and the current field.

But after pressing the throttle it repeats: No response to the armature.

Sometimes pressing the throttle will maintain the green light on and not even the Internal Reset error it reports.

I changed all the bolts to the Stainless Steel ones. All are well connected.

I get a 132V reading. Batteries are discharging -4 Amps to the DC/DC. Controller is emitting -15Amps to the field.

It worked before...

"Internal Reset: Reset caused by overcurrent, high battery voltage or low supply voltage . It is normal if occurs occasionally."
What could it be?

I should have ordered series wound motor or a AC one. I can see that sepex is not really the best way to go...

Thanks,
Pedro

[onegreenev]

What are the settings on the new controller at the moment? What is your supply voltage? if you are using a standard 12 lead acid battery then you may be having the voltage drop enough to kick things out of whack. I have seen it way too often. You think your battery is good but it is not holding a high enough charge. I am currently using a 4 cell Lithium pack for my Aux battery. My normal working lead acid aux battery is not allowing enough to even run the damn controller. When it is all put together I will be ONLY using a DC DC converter for my Aux power.

Pete

[pedm]

Originally Posted by onegreenev

What are the settings on the new controller at the moment? What is your supply voltage? if you are using a standard 12 lead acid battery then you may be having the voltage drop enough to kick things out of whack. I have seen it way too often. You think your battery is good but it is not holding a high enough charge. I am currently using a 4 cell Lithium pack for my Aux battery. My normal working lead acid aux battery is not allowing enough to even run the damn controller. When it is all put together I will be ONLY using a DC DC converter for my Aux power.

Pete

Hi Pete,

Thanks a lot for your reply. Yes the lead acid battery dropped once before.
Maybe something shorted inside the controller because of the 12v.

Using an external 12v supply the controller gives the same error.

I am going to ask if kelly can replace it again.

What type of 12v Aux batteries should be used on a EV conversion?

[pedm]

Sorry the configurations are:

The same as before but now it is at 25% motor and battery current and 50% field current: http://eletrificar.com/EV/2012/ (see at the end of this page)

[pedm]

It gives the same error, but because of:

Something shorted inside the controller maybe because of the low aux 12v battery. It could have disconnected immediately after I turned it on.

When I turn the car key on , the vacuum pump, and the controller connects at the same time. And some times the pump is discharging 50A, and the 12v aux battery as 55Ah. The DC/DC converter sends the amount of current to compensate the diference for the rest of the parts, but not the necessary for the system. So I can see the Touch Screen tuning off (because of low power) and turning back on.

Could this be the reason?

[DavidDymaxion]

A pump takes a huge surge of current when it starts, so yes that could be the problem. It should be easy enough to test, disconnect the pump and see if the Kelly is happy.

Originally Posted by pedm

It gives the same error, but because of:

Something shorted inside the controller maybe because of the low aux 12v battery. It could have disconnected immediately after I turned it on.

When I turn the car key on , the vacuum pump, and the controller connects at the same time. And some times the pump is discharging 50A, and the 12v aux battery as 55Ah. The DC/DC converter sends the amount of current to compensate the diference for the rest of the parts, but not the necessary for the system. So I can see the Touch Screen tuning off (because of low power) and turning back on.

Could this be the reason?

[onegreenev]

What is the output voltage of your DC DC converter? What is the output wattage of your DC DC converter? Aux battery seems small. I am currently using 4 100ah LiFePO4 in series for my Aux battery. It provides plenty when needed for the Aux system. If your pump is pushing 50A when turned on that will sag your little Aux and maybe even tax your DC DC enough to cause issues.

[pedm]

Originally Posted by DavidDymaxion

It should be easy enough to test, disconnect the pump and see if the Kelly is happy.

Not really, Kelly still respond the same error with a separated 12v external power: Internal Reset.

Originally Posted by onegreenev

What is the output voltage of your DC DC converter?.

It is only 20A:
http://kellycontroller.com/hwz-serie...25a-p-112.html
Not sufficient for the vacuum pump, the controller and the rest.

Maybe the controller did not like this battery and it could have shorted something inside it. Now it just gives the same error: Internal Reset.
But it should't do this for just a 12v drop.

I was thinking:
I changed all the HV battery bolts, from aluminium to stainless steel. Could this be the problem? After that I heard something shorting inside the controller, and then It started to give this error all the time. Also at this moment the 12v Battery was low.

Kelly asked me to make the following test before sending it but to them:
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...esi-75803.html
Maybe it will not solve the problem.
The unstable aux system already seems to have damaged the controller.

[pedm]

Hi,

After a long long time, I finally have the new controller with me. But this time I am afraid to connect it again without replacing the aux battery for a new one. I was thinking about buying a 130Ah gel battery. Because it is cheaper but I am afraid it can go bellow 12v again. Or go for an expensive 12v Litium battery. This battery will be always charged by the DC-DC (13.5v). So it is important to have a BMS system for the 12v aux battery also avoiding it to be overcharged.

After a long period of time I can feel a strange smell on my battery pack. Smells like silicon. HP may have fabricated the white boxes with plastic and white silicone.

The aux battery I was using was a 55Ah AGM. This may have caused the controller blow up. When pressing the break pedal the vacuum pump takes about 40A. Not enough for the rest - controller, lights, BMS ...

When the battery turned bellow the 9v the controller may have turned OFF and back ON at a milisec. So pre-charge did not occurred at this time because kelly HSE assembly as a direct connection from 12v to the contactor. If you have the 12v power on the contactor it closes and opens if the voltage drops.

So I have to change the HSE assembply to avoid the contactor to close and open before pre-charge on a voltage drop before powering the controller.
OR
Look for a 150 Ah rated aux battery and be sure that the voltage don't drop bellow 12v.

Maybe the second thought is more easy to do.