[dimitri]

Hey guys,

I got a weird problem with my PakTrakr, it goes bananas when the motor is running, but works perfectly when motor is off. Strangest thing is that it only started happening since I installed my upgraded Soliton1 yesterday. I don't suppose its controller's fault, since its made from solid aluminum and well grounded to the chassis. I checked all wires, made sure there is no high voltage on the chassis ground, I don't know what else to check.

For past 2 months I was running beta controller I had no issues with PakTrakr, but now its useless while the motor is running, it shows garbled data, random digits, pixels, etc. As soon as I shut off the motor, it settles down and shows correct data.

Any ideas?

[TheSGC]

It's not the controller entirely, but the noise in the battery cables resulting from the PWM the controller makes to controller the motor. Mine does it too, depending on what controller settings I have running. I also find it goes nuts when I am pulling over 200 battery AMPs, or if I let off the throttle really fast. This is with the Kelly set to SPEED, but if I set it to BALANCED it will not go crazy.

I have been adding EMI chokes to the serial cables on the PakTrakr, and I am hoping it will go away when I get my Synkomotive controller. I am also going to rearrange the Remotes further away from the battery cables, and if I can't, put the Remote wires perpendicular to the battery 2/0 cables.

[dimitri]

Originally Posted by TheSGC

I have been adding EMI chokes to the serial cables on the PakTrakr, and I am hoping it will go away.

So, did EMI chokes helped at all or is it still pretty bad? Can you provide a link to where I can get those chokes? I don't have experience with this type of thing...

[racunniff]

Originally Posted by dimitri

So, did EMI chokes helped at all or is it still pretty bad? Can you provide a link to where I can get those chokes? I don't have experience with this type of thing...

I also have had this problem. I have an AC system (Azure Dynamics) which might be contributing. Working with Ken Hall, I tried:

• Adding ferrite beads
• Relocating cables to avoid parallel power / data cable runs
• Rewiring the order of sensor modules

The only thing that "works" is to avoid the use of the ammeter option. Without that, it runs pretty reliably. But adding the ammeter into my system causes it to go insane.

At some point, I need to hook up a data logger to send the results to Ken, but I have other priorities keeping me busy.

[BWH]

There are always snap on Ferrite cores. http://www.bestofferbuy.com/emi-nois...e-p-14754.html <-- Random Google link, not a company endorsement.

Looping your data cables through one of these a few times should clean things up a quite a bit. I think they sell them at Radio Shack as well.

[TheSGC]

Originally Posted by dimitri

So, did EMI chokes helped at all or is it still pretty bad? Can you provide a link to where I can get those chokes? I don't have experience with this type of thing...

They helped A LOT! My Paktrakr went from complete garbage (showing weird voltages from 10 volts to 300 volts, fake errors and resetting the gauge) to pretty much usable, except when exceeding 200 AMPs, which I try not to do as much as possible as its pure murder to my floodies.

I am using those Snap on EMI Chokes that BWH made a link to an example of, but I got mine from the Rat Shack. I have one on each of the Remote's serial cable, right up to the Remote and that seems to work well. If one slips down, but PakTrakr goes wacko again, so I ended up taping them down.

This is what I have: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2996360

I'll try and get some pictures this weekend of how I set mine up.

[HDS]

Hi all:
I am a novice here with no EV experience, but are you using shielded cable for your data? If it is shielded and you are still getting the interference, try grounding the shield on one end only.

In traffic signal controls, it is not uncommon to get interference on the interconnecting data lines that link multiple controllers for the coordination of sequencial intersections. The above technique can often solve the problem.

Good luck,
HDS

[dimitri]

Unfortunately PakTrakr remotes do not come with shielded cables, although for what they cost they should be better built to resist interference.

I will be implementing your ideas over the weekend, and will post results here. Thanks all for your feedback.

[BWH]

Originally Posted by TheSGC

I have one on each of the Remote's serial cable, right up to the Remote and that seems to work well. If one slips down, but PakTrakr goes wacko again, so I ended up taping them down.

You should loop the wire through the core as many times as will fit and still reach the plug. This will both further reduce the interference (to a point) and keep the cores from moving around.

[tj4fa]

I don't know if this is related, but someone recently told me that a rememdy for some jerkiness in a Curtis Controller was to take the short 2/0 cable from S1 to S2 of the motor and replace it with a 10' coil.

He said something about wrapping it around a peice of PVC pipe and reconnecting the ends to S1-S2.

I guess if the controller is too close to this cable on the motor it may pick up some eddy currents/line hysterisis from the wire and interfere with something inside the controller.

I have a little jerkiness about 35 mph that may possibly be from this condition and maybe instead of replacing the short S1-S2 cable and installing this large coil, installing a couple of those chokes you guys linked on the existing S1-S2 motor cable might help or be an easier remedy to try.

A fun thing to hear how much frequency noise your electronics (controller) is generating is to turn on your AM radio and tune in until you find the station where you can hear your frequency changing based on your throttle inputs while driving.