[mizlplix]

For this car, I still stick to my very first post on page 1.

My $.02.....

Corvair 3 speed transmission/suspension.
If you wanted an AC system, an AC50 kit.
If you wanted a DC system, a 9" motor/ Soliton Jr controller.

The heart of your car will really be the traction pack.

Either with a clutch or clutchless, depending on the drivers needs.

I like a clutch with a cut-down flywheel. I have owned two door slammers/clutch/lead -acid. They were both daily drivers about 3,000# and got about 40 flat land miles per charge and with new batteries could do 65MPH. The batteries eventually tapered off after a couple of years to half that. I had driven about 15,000 miles by then.

I should expect the same from your car.

Internet speculation is just that and is good for intellectual stimulation, Real-world, Hands on experience is just that also (Providing you trust the supplier)

Good luck with your car, it sounds like a good project.

Miz

[Xrayguru]

Trying to attach a picture of the car. we shall see if it posts.

[mizlplix]

I always thought of those as Mini Camaros...Lol

I used to have a 1963 Spider rag top.(I have a long list of ustas)

Your car will be doubly satisfactory because of all the extra body and resto work.

Miz

[Xrayguru]

That's my bigger little brother in the picture helping me. He has never hauled a car before. Miz I believe the camaro got it looks originally from the Corvair body style.
So I have some specs to share from my research. My overal tire size height wise will be around 24".

The rear end I have three ratios to choose from (3.27:1) (3.55:1) (3.89:1).

The Power glide ratios are low gear (1.82:1) and high gear (1:1)
Stall on torque converter is (2.6:1)

The original motor specs are 140hp@5200 rpm and 160TQ@3600RPM

I am not a mathematical genius so with all that I am unsure if I need the PG or direct drive is still feasible. I want to keep that height of tire for good stability and looks.

Miz you have proven to have RL advice and I trust your opinions. How does one go about matching up an electric motor with enough umph to match what the ice motor did or better?

[mizlplix]

Xray: First of all your requirements are determined by where you live. Hills, heat/cold, average daily milage needs.

On paper, a warp 9/soliton controller,3.89 gear, 24" tire, adequate pack size, looks really good, with a 3 speed transmission. It would MPH out at about 100 or so in 3rd gear at the motor max. RPM.

Go here to try combos: http://www.rocky-road.com/calculator.html

As stated, I like a clutch. (others do not) Try to drive a stick shift trans a little without using the clutch. Start out with clutch, accelerate, off throttle-press shifter gently, it will go to neutral, press gently, it will go to second with a 2-3 second lag.

Your pack size requires more info. go here and read at bottom of page.
http://www.evolveelectrics.com/Netga...FSUbQgodr279jA

More later.

Miz

[Mark C]

Subscribing.

I love the second generation Corvair coupe body style. Yours looks to be a nice example to restore. It was great your finding a '68 {'69 is good too, but harder to find} as I prefer the added standard safety features that started appearing in the late '60s. By '68 all were required to have dual reservoir brake master cylinders, energy absorbing steering columns and shoulder belts. Having survived some stupidity {aka car "accidents"}, I kind of like some safety equipment on board.

Sorry I don't have any EV building experience to offer, but I was thinking Warp 9 HV and Soliton Jr would make a sweet combo.

[TomA]

Originally Posted by mizlplix

As stated, I like a clutch. (others do not) Try to drive a stick shift trans a little without using the clutch. Start out with clutch, accelerate, off throttle-press shifter gently, it will go to neutral, press gently, it will go to second with a 2-3 second lag.

Miz

Also, keep in mind that an electric motor is both easier to shift clutchless, and easier on the synchros over time. That's because an electric motor has less rotational mass than an ICE, and no pumping resistance to overcome, resulting in far lower resistance for the synchros to overcome as they equalize the shaft speeds inside the transmission.

It still takes time, though, and 2 seconds is a long time to wait for the shifter to fall into place if you aren't used to it and planning ahead.

Also, if you delete the clutch, its critically important that you get a later Saginaw Corvair 3 speed with synchromesh gears on all 3 speeds, not one of the earlier units with synchros only on second and third gears. You'll only be able to downshift an early gearbox into first at rest without grinding it, making it unsuitable for clutchless operation.

With a DC motor, a clutch is also a safety feature, as DC controllers can fail shorted, which results in full power that can't be turned off. If you can't pull in the clutch, you'll have to break the high voltage circuit under max current to stop the car. You should of course have a system (contactor, "Oh, Scheisse" switch, etc.) to do that anyway, but the clutch is actually more reliable and easier to think of in an emergency. AC controllers don't fail in full power mode, so its not an issue is you go AC.

Lastly, I don't think the Soltion Jr. (or Curtis) controller is going to be satisfactory with a curb weight over 2600lbs, and a gross weight well over 3000 loaded. The extra 50% more current of a Soliton 1 is going to be very useful getting your car moving. Once you go to 1000A, you'll be much better off with 180Ah cells, which won't be nearly as stressed or sag as much as 100Ah cells at the current the Soliton 1 can draw. (5.5C versus 10C with 100Ah cells.) If you want anything like stock performance, 650A is going to feel slow.

[hjackson3149]

Good morning all

I to am planning a corvair conversion with a PG tranny
mine is a 69 moza
the information I have found about the diff ratios is that
there are several available

3.08, 3.27, 3.55, 3.89 and 4.11
also the PG diff can be made into a possi unit

I am planning to use
1) warp9 motor @ 144v
2) soliton1 contoller
3) Calb cells 48 @ 70ah (second pack to be added)
4) existing 12v system and battery at first
will DC/DC converter if deemed nessasary

I plan on starting with the installed 3.55 and see what happens

if need be then will make changes, or possibly goto a manual

also I plan to idle mine for simplicty's sake and possible A/C

mine is currently running and it runs real well for testing

will be following this thread intensly, and will start my own as soon as I get to the purchasing stage

any and all comments and suggestions are much appreciated

thanks
Hank
in south fla.