[marc02228]

Some nice progress, today.
Motor, exhausting system and fuel hoses are out.

I might use the K9 220 if everything goes well, i can install a 2nd K9. should I take the 220V or the 144V, then?
Didn't really thought about using two motors, before.

[drgrieve]

Use the Dual K9 that comes pre-built in that case. This way you don;t have to couple them yourself.

[marc02228]

Actually nothing new, here. But I finished designing the PCB for the batteriepack.
I will build the Pack out of nine modules à 10s3p and one module 6s3p.

If anyone needs a PCB, let me know. I had to order a couple more, than I needed to get a reasonable price.

This is what the design looks like as a 9s3p version.

[kerrymann]

Originally Posted by galeson

evlowrider has a thread on here somewhere where he shows how to take it out through the top. That's the way I did it. I used a reciprocating saw to cut the corners off the tank. Of course make sure it is totally empty in case you cut into the tank.

I pulled mine from the top but if I were do it again I would do it from the bottom. You have to pull the rear sub frame but it's a good time to replace all of the old suspension bushings.

http://www.miata.net/garage/fueltank.html

BTW nice looking donor! You got a great start on a conversion!

[marc02228]

Finally the PCB's arrived
All fits well and looks pretty

[marc02228]

Does anyone know, how many pulses per turn the original Miata tach expects?

[marc02228]

Still testing all the cells.
278/400 done. I'm gonna use 96s3p, so I actually just need to test 10 more cells, but I wanna pick out the best and actually have some time left for the cells.

Removed the dash board, took out all the unnecessary Miata wiring harness and added some new cables.

Because I am to tall for the original seats, I bought some Elise MK2 seats which are almost in. Just need to optimize a bit.

Today I picked up motor (K11Alpha), controller (Soliton 1) and other components. Hope to finish the main work at the car in August...

Next steps:
-finish seats
-remove fuel tank
-install motor
-put the car on scales to keep weight distribution
-keep testing cells
- etc. pp.

I am not sure, whether to mount the motor directly to the chassis or to use stock rubber damper. I've seen both.
Any suggestions, what's better?

[Ziggythewiz]

Stock mounts are good to keep vibrations/noise down.

[cpct]

Originally Posted by marc02228

-BMS (don't know which one, since i need a EMI certificate for it) actually I
wanted to use Orion or EMUS.

We are also converting a Miata and have chosen the Electromotus/EMUS BMS. It is not cheap but the software and support is really good. After some issues with the top/bottom modules, replacements were sent right away. Not sure about EMI conformance though. Having it tested at a qualified lab can be very expensive (+1000 EUR)

[marc02228]

Stock mounts are good to keep vibrations/noise down.

That was my thought, too. But I am not sure, if it can handle the torque, even though most of it should be transferred by the motor/Gearbox adapter.?

We are also converting a Miata and have chosen the Electromotus/EMUS BMS. It is not cheap but the software and support is really good. After some issues with the top/bottom modules, replacements were sent right away. Not sure about EMI conformance though. Having it tested at a qualified lab can be very expensive (+1000 EUR)

I ordered the EMUS BMS a couple days ago. Good to hear, that it works well.
What diameter are the connecting holes for the cells? How long are the cell units (A/B)? I am not sure if it fits to my A123 Modules. Maybe I have to cut off the connecting holes and connect it by cable or connect the cell units by some L-bracket or so.