Quote:
Originally Posted by piotrsko
the only major problem that I can see is the place to keep your pressure accumulator tranny fluid for when you are at a stop light and the motor is off.
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There are a number of ways depending if you are running with a converter or not, although why you would run with a converter I dont know. The whole idea here is to get a light two speed transmission with very little slippage or internal friction. One that that can handle the huge torque that electric motors put out.
But I dont think it really matters, since nothing is turning, nothing needs lube. There would be a short (maybe un-noticable) lag as the pressure came up when the motor started turning again, pressure comes up, internal clutch engages and off you go.
Long coasting or regeneritive brakeing though, is why you want the circle track push start mods done or you would need a trans with a rear pump. You could also install an electric aux pump, somethind like an inline 100 psi fuel injection pump switched on when the trans is in gear and the motor is off, to keep up the pressure when the motor stopped, nothing that couldn't be handled. Normally the clutches would stay engaged for a short time as you coasted down until bleed off caused them to open and stop driving the pump. You could also keep a few volts on the motor to keep the pump turning until you were almost stopped.
By the way If I have given the impression I was talking about a fully automatic I didn't intend to . . . . although now with a little thought and a good trans man. Hmmmm an automatically shifted torque converterlees transmission . . . .
Ideally I would take a powerglide, remove the torque converter, (they make good mushroom boat anchors)
get the converter replacement shafts, go through the clutches, plates, bearings and seals, then do or have done the circle track modifications without the clutch pedal, or do some other mod as above and install a manual valve body. You will end up with a manually shifted two speed planetary transmission with reverse and internally applied hydraulic clutches. Move the lever and one gear disengages the other engages (reverse lock out needed of course), store bought shifters have all that, including neutral safety switches. You can even get solenoid shifters if you want paddle shift.
If I was using it in a situation where a bell housing would fit (also remember there are different replacement bell housings for many other engine types if you already have an adapter) I would make or get the necessary adapter plate and connector shaft. Since the circle track pump drive and input shaft mimics the normal flexplate and converter.
Note depth of pump drive insertion is important so the coupler instalation to the moter would have to be done with care.
If you are installing it in a tight location, saw off the bell housing and make your motor/trans mounts so it will bolt up to the front pump (using longer bolts of course). If you need it shorter yet get the shorty output shaft and end cover, install them, throw away the tail shaft.
Now you have a trans that is about 14 inches long and uses standard automotive in and out connectors.
Need a side winder, support the in and out shaft for lateral loads and chain or belt it as needed.
A standard circle track powerglide can be made for under $500.00 (your labor if you are careful and shop) or sometimes bought for under a $1000.00. A full out race shorty built to your specs, maybe $3500 but that is BIG torque area.
Go price a custom built 2 speed manual with those kind of specs, bring oxygen you'll be gasping.
I'm not saying this is off the shelf stuff but once its done the first time and the information passed around. These trans modifiers are sharp and used to dealing in small scale. You guys create a need, the trans will be there.
As I said before, I would love to do this. Just 3-2. . . . (to old, too poor, too sick)
You all be well,
Jim
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