[nucleus]

Dwayne from Kansas EV returned my call today.

I really like their transmission. He said that once you start turning the motor it has full pressure after 3-4 revolutions. The electric pump just keeps it primed to about 50 PSI and runs very little.

A larger Warp motor bolts right on. Two forward speeds, reverse and neutral manually controlled. You can shift under full power. They have shortened it so the transmission itself is only a foot long.

I think this is a better solution for a street car than a racing transmission because the straight cut gears in the racing stuff are ridiculously loud.

[somanywelps]

Did he say anything about power ratings?

[nucleus]

Originally Posted by somanywelps

Did he say anything about power ratings?

I forgot to ask him that, but automatics generally handle a lot more power than manuals due to their planetary gear sets with lots of teeth meshing.

Pickup trucks with stick shift have lower tow ratings vs. the automatic version.

Nucleus

[RET]

Originally Posted by nucleus

Dwayne from Kansas EV returned my call today.

I really like their transmission. He said that once you start turning the motor it has full pressure after 3-4 revolutions. The electric pump just keeps it primed to about 50 PSI and runs very little.

A larger Warp motor bolts right on. Two forward speeds, reverse and neutral manually controlled. You can shift under full power. They have shortened it so the transmission itself is only a foot long.

I think this is a better solution for a street car than a racing transmission because the straight cut gears in the racing stuff are ridiculously loud.

I sent them an email and never got it returned ???

I really wonder how loud a racing transmission is , never got to hear one especially without a roaring
engine running it .

Kansas EV's setup does look sweet , I am just wondering if I could build a similar setup out of my own powerglide .

[nucleus]

Originally Posted by RET

I sent them an email and never got it returned ???

Sounds like it is best to call these guys...

Originally Posted by RET

I really wonder how loud a racing transmission is , never got to hear one especially without a roaring
engine running it .

Kansas EV's setup does look sweet , I am just wondering if I could build a similar setup out of my own powerglide .

Sure you can. After you get the front end shortened, the back end shortened, and machine the adaptor, I'm not sure you will save any money. If length doesn't matter to you then you might be able to save some money.

Nucleus

[RET]

Originally Posted by nucleus

Dwayne from Kansas EV returned my call today.

I really like their transmission. He said that once you start turning the motor it has full pressure after 3-4 revolutions. The electric pump just keeps it primed to about 50 PSI and runs very little.

A larger Warp motor bolts right on. Two forward speeds, reverse and neutral manually controlled. You can shift under full power. They have shortened it so the transmission itself is only a foot long.

I think this is a better solution for a street car than a racing transmission because the straight cut gears in the racing stuff are ridiculously loud.

I talked to the people at TCI that build racing transmissions . The transmissions are not loud . These are the converterless 2 speed power glides and may be a good setup for EV needs . I am also looking at Gearvendors setups suggested by Rebirth EV . This might also be a solution .

[piotrsko]

before you decide on what style trans, also look at what adapter/bell housing you'll need along with mounting options. Gear vendors will need mods, a powerslush will come in any flavor motor you can think of.

Not pushing either, just making a comment. I like the kansas EV solution, but I'm a manual fanatic

[RET]

Originally Posted by piotrsko

before you decide on what style trans, also look at what adapter/bell housing you'll need along with mounting options. Gear vendors will need mods, a powerslush will come in any flavor motor you can think of.

Not pushing either, just making a comment. I like the kansas EV solution, but I'm a manual fanatic

Thanks , I am really gathering information at the time . I have many other things to do before I start buying materials for the conversion . But my main goal is to learn some things along the way , the reason I am talking to all the suppliers and hear on the forum they are all the best sources of information and I appreciate everybody giving their input . I do like the Kansas EV solution too, it is by far the
easiest adaptable transmission to a motor .

[mizlplix]

Been drag, oval and street rodding power slides all my life.

2000hp requires an aftermarket case, you don't.
The shorty rear mod requires a shorty bearing plate and a shorty output shaft.
The bell cuts off at the front pump surface. Use a saws all and sander to dress it.
New bell/ adapter uses the front pump bolts, just longer ones.
There is a push start adapter we used to use that manually engaged the low band. That could be used to engage low gear. Then oil pressure that engages the high clutches could pull it out of engagement if set up properly. No electric pump needed...

Another project. For another day.....

Miz

[RET]

Originally Posted by mizlplix

Been drag, oval and street rodding power slides all my life.

2000hp requires an aftermarket case, you don't.
The shorty rear mod requires a shorty bearing plate and a shorty output shaft.
The bell cuts off at the front pump surface. Use a saws all and sander to dress it.
New bell/ adapter uses the front pump bolts, just longer ones.
There is a push start adapter we used to use that manually engaged the low band. That could be used to engage low gear. Then oil pressure that engages the high clutches could pull it out of engagement if set up properly. No electric pump needed...

Another project. For another day.....

Miz

Thanks for the info . I knew it could be done . and you just showed that to me. Could you run a manual valve body and shift between low and high
gears or is that what you are saying above ?