Just a thought....
A reverse-trike with batteries and motor up front with the motor driving the front wheels with a limited-slip-diff will have better handling.The center of gravity should be slightly behind the front wheel ,regardless of reverse-trike or two-wheeled recumbent bike.You will otherwise get rear wheel slip in turns.You can also build the chassis with the Lotus technique of aluminum/epoxy/Ejot rivet screw construction.Zero welding and stronger/lighter than steel.All metal www.Alulight.com aluminum foam panels can also be bonded to a monocoqe fiberglass body for an even lighter bike.
Just a thought....
A reverse-trike with batteries and motor up front with the motor driving the front wheels with a limited-slip-diff will have better handling.The center of gravity should be slightly behind the front wheel ,regardless of reverse-trike or two-wheeled recumbent bike.You will otherwise get rear wheel slip in turns.You can also build the chassis with the Lotus technique of aluminum/epoxy/Ejot rivet screw construction.Zero welding and stronger/lighter than steel.All metal www.Alulight.com aluminum foam panels can also be bonded to a monocoqe fiberglass body for an even lighter bike.
how much would it cost with a top speed of 50 kmh and a range of 100km 16k mabey thanks this reminds me of the go-one (http://www.go-one.us/) migth be a good winter for you good luck
how much would it cost with a top speed of 50 kmh and a range of 100km 16k mabey thanks this reminds me of the go-one (http://www.go-one.us/) migth be a good winter for you good luck
My design is nothing like the Go-One.
The front-drive wheels and motor are more forward with the batteries behind the front axle.This gives a perfect CG.The motor to Honda limited-slip diff is belt-drive
The chassis is built similar to the Lotus chassis.
The trike can do what you are asking , if it is below 650lbs. and has a 45hp ac motor with a 96volt lithium iron phosphate battery pack.I would recommend using motorcycle parts,preferably a Ducati 1098.I have bought a wrecked one for mine.
There are some very good aluminum race-car front wish-bone suspension components in the UK and Australia for the reverse-trike chassis.You can even use late model front wheel-drive Porsche 996 strut suspension and drive axles.these are inexpensive parts at the breakers yard.You can even eliminate the shock tower and use a custom upper wish-bone,then add a Ducati 1098 rear shock.
Last edited by sunworksco; 12-19-2009 at 05:34 PM.
There are some very good aluminum race-car front wish-bone suspension components in the UK and Australia for the reverse-trike chassis.You can even use late model front wheel-drive Porsche 996 strut suspension and drive axles.these are inexpensive parts at the breakers yard.You can even eliminate the shock tower and use a custom upper wish-bone,then add a Ducati 1098 rear shock.
Please tell be about these aluminum racing arms.
The Porsche components are almost certainly too heavy for my vehicle, and "inexpensive parts" is a matter of perspective, I suppose. As parts go, the Ducati rear shocks may not be very pricey, but AWD Porsche parts will never be cheap in the US.
The Corvette has been using them for many years. Same with some Audi, Ferrari, and surely others in the high-end class. The OEM arms are all forged, which would be a huge undertaking for an aftermarket supplier of something as low volume as, say, kit car or hot rod chassis parts.
Steeda makes aftermarket aluminum arms, for Mustang suspensions, but only on the rear.
Jerry Kugel has made arms out of cast stainless steel for his hot rod suspension kits for many years. It isn't so much that they are lighter, but that they are much dressier for a fenderless hot rod. That's usually the case with stainless and billet parts of any kind...
My design is nothing like the Go-One.
The front-drive wheels and motor are more forward with the batteries behind the front axle.This gives a perfect CG.The motor to Honda limited-slip diff is belt-drive
The chassis is built similar to the Lotus chassis.
The trike can do what you are asking , if it is below 650lbs. and has a 45hp ac motor with a 96volt lithium iron phosphate battery pack.I would recommend using motorcycle parts,preferably a Ducati 1098.I have bought a wrecked one for mine.
There are some very good aluminum race-car front wish-bone suspension components in the UK and Australia for the reverse-trike chassis.You can even use late model front wheel-drive Porsche 996 strut suspension and drive axles.these are inexpensive parts at the breakers yard.You can even eliminate the shock tower and use a custom upper wish-bone,then add a Ducati 1098 rear shock.
srroy for not posting erailer but I have been busy. thanks so much for all the info!! srroy but I am not going to build it. I was just wondering I didnt thinke you would pot so much time in this post. however I migth build it in a few yers (when I get my drivers lisnce, money and skills) but thanks so much for all the info and srroy for makeing you waste your time!
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What todayican and I have in common is the hub motor we intend to use- it is 10kW continuous and 30kW peak. That's many times more powerful than a velomobile motor, and it needs at least a road-licensed motorcycle to carry it and the batteries it uses. At 50+ lbs, the motor unit alone weighs almost as much as a velomobile. Two of these motors could power a very small car.
Think of it this way- the hub motor, from Mark at EnerTrac, really determines the class of vehicle one builds around it- ideally, about 300lbs-400lbs of curb weight per unit. That's the playing field here.
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TomA
Tom, could you comment more on motor 10 kw const. 30 kw peak?
about EnerTrac manufacturer only says:
"Power output: 10KW continuous @ 25c ambient temperature
Typical Voltage needed:
72 volts for 30 MPH with 18 X 3.5 tire
96 volts for 45 plus MPH with 18 X 3.5 tire
Typical current demand:
At 72 volts and 30 MPH < 33 amps
At 96 volts and 45 MPH < 50 amps" http://www.doingitall.net/EnerTrac/product.php#b?
thank you
I'm new to this forum, but not new to recumbent motorcycles. I'm building one using a Honda VF700 sportbike with an extremely modified frame and my own design front suspension. You can find my extensive website at www.ProjectVF.com Too many well-meaning recumbent builders gave me advice on steering and handling, yet their designs were based on "what felt right," so I built a relatively cheap & crude mule to test various combinations of rake and trail. If you're interested in seeing the results, I have a lot of data published within my site.
I did a lot of research in the past regarding electric vehicles, but it was the weight and size of the batteries, in relation to their output and range, that kept me from pursuing it further. There has been a fair amount of evolution in the technology since then, but I'm not quite ready to jump in and give it a try. I'm certainly going to watch the progress of your recumbent and see how it turns out.
I also visited your website and looked through the construction of your three-wheeler. I like how it looks and I bet it'll be a blast to drive. You definately have a lot of projects on your plate.
Re: Purpose built Recumbent Electric Motorcycle.
srroy but I am not going to build it.
I was just wondering I didnt thinke you would pot so much time in this post. however I migth build it in a few yers (when I get my drivers lisnce, money and skills) but thanks so much for all the info and srroy for makeing you waste your time!
Linear Mode
