[EVDL List]

Hey, Bob - I still have a few of those old twist switches around, I think.
my dad's house still has a few, but they're on the list to be replaced!

Joseph H. Strubhar

Web: www.gremcoinc.com

E-mail: xxx@xxx.xxx


----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Rice" <xxx@xxx.xxx>
To: <xxx@xxx.xxx.edu>
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 7:34 AM
Subject: [EVDL] Fw: [NEDRA] Re: Pid for a heater control?


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bob Rice
> To: xxx@xxx.xxx
> Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 10:26 AM
> Subject: Re: [NEDRA] Re: Pid for a heater control?
>
>
> Hi Jack;
>
> I went through all the below with a heater switch, and ended up using a
> 200 amp contactor, a Sonka? or something?Overkill? I was thinking of
> swiping one of those OLD rotery light switches from my Mom's old house,
> wired in 1915. Remember those ancient, round, flush mount, ones with the
> little sorta square knob that rotated, when you turned it off it
> "snapped", about most of the way into a turn? MY reasoning, in 1915 alota
> homes were wired for DC OR AC so they(electricians) covered all their
> bases?With "snap" type switches? Never tried it, as Mon sold the old place
> BEFORE I tried my theory.Sigh.
>
> WHERE can ya buy good old KNIFE Switches, anyhow? THEY would work, and
> DO have a sort of antique charm , us RR buffs like! They work just FINE in
> locomotives! EVEN newer ones, you KNOW for sure ,if the battery switch is
> open! Right in yur face when you look in the electrical locker ,behind
> the engineer's seat! Of course they are arc-ed up from misteaking the
> polarity on jump starts!
>
> I TRIED various capaciters on the contacts of misc. Relays. Worked
> MOST of the time, but not enough that I could be SURE the heater was OFF?
> Never tried a diode? Wouldn't that snub an arc?
>
> Seeya
>
> Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: marionrickard
> To: xxx@xxx.xxx
> Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 9:51 AM
> Subject: [NEDRA] Re: Pid for a heater control?
>
>
>
>
>
[quote]> --- In xxx@xxx.xxx, "chris stephens" <stub@...> wrote:
>
> >
> > I just posted on EVDL but I figured I'd harass you fine folks as well.
> >
> > Has anyone tried using an industrial PID and SSR relay as a controller
> for
> > an electric heater? Ebay has boat loads of em between $30 and $200.
> >
>
> Yes, I tried it on a ceramic heater for the Speedster - twice. It was
> supposed to be a 40 amp 240v SSR and I was switching 15-20 amps at 105v.
> It turned on really well. It didn't turn OFF at all afterwards.
>
> I repeated it with a snubber circuit, which doesn't make a lot of sense,
> but I thought I would try it anyway. Three cycles and it failed full ON
> again.
>
> Finally went to a small Kilovac. Works great. My experience with these
> SSRs has been poor.
> In fact, my experience with most current rated semiconductors lately has
> been poor. They are putting huge numbers on these devices, which require a
> heat sink. But whatever heat sink they are using to justify those numbers
> must be some heat sink.
>
> With what LOOKS like a pretty good heat sink to me, I'm routinely failing
> to get half the rated current capacity on almost all heavy semiconductor
> devices.
>
> But I may be a klutz. I burn up an awful lot of stuff.....
>
> Jack Rickard
> http://evtv.me
>
>
>
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