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  #11  
Old 05-25-2012, 11:37 PM
clonezero clonezero is offline
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Default Re: Rick's 1973 VW Super Beetle build

Im right in the middle of my 1973 super beetle conversion. The AC50 will fit in ok with little problems. I am using rebirthauto adapter which is a very nice unit. Using onegreenev's suggestion of lowering the transaxle helped.

Loosen the front mount disconnect the shifter linkage and remove the bolts holding the transmission in place, then lower it with a jack. Jack the motor from the bottom and line up in place and it should go right on. Then back the motor adapter back about 1 inch back from the transaxle and thread the studs (used threaded rod) put in from the back through the transaxle into the adapter. Seat the adapter to the transaxle and bolt tight. Replace and tighten the transaxle bolts/linkage.

I have the starter hole cover done, made a nice polished aluminum back and bottom plates. Next step is to make a holder for the controller/heatsink and contactor/fusebox.

Good luck with your project. I am having lots of fun.

Last edited by clonezero; 05-26-2012 at 12:09 AM.
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  #12  
Old 05-26-2012, 06:29 AM
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ricklearned ricklearned is offline
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Default Re: Rick's 1973 VW Super Beetle build

I picked up my motor yesterday and my transaxle should be available later today. I had new seals installed in the transaxle.

I was wondering about the starter hole. I think I will make a cover before I re-install the transaxle. It also sounds like it is easier to mount the motor to the transaxle before I re-install the transaxle.
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  #13  
Old 05-26-2012, 11:53 AM
clonezero clonezero is offline
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Default Re: Rick's 1973 VW Super Beetle build

Sounds like it would be easier to install all in one piece. Let us know how it goes.
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  #14  
Old 05-26-2012, 02:00 PM
Zak650 Zak650 is offline
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Default Re: Rick's 1973 VW Super Beetle build

Trying to install it all at one time may not be a very good idea. remember the main frame "fork" that the transmission bell housing bolts to sticks past the halfshafts making an all in one install difficult. If you have the transmission out of the car it's pretty easy to check fit the motor and bolt it up with lots of room around it and make sure it all mates up well. Then just remove the motor and know ahead of time it will bolt up once the transmission itself is installed in the car.

Zak
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  #15  
Old 05-26-2012, 06:00 PM
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Default Re: Rick's 1973 VW Super Beetle build

The idea behind the trick is to keep you from having to cock the motor in such a tight fitting area. The transaxle will just tilt down for you to mount the motor then tilt it back up into place. It makes for an easy install unless you actually have lots of room. With my 9" GE there is but an 1/8 inch gap between the body and end of the motor. Tilting the transaxle allows me to slip in the motor real easy with out binding or catching when the motor is at such a steep angle if I had not angled the transaxle down. By angling the transaxle you actually make a hard job easy. Removing the transaxle completely is more trouble than its worth. You'd need to remove the axles first. Not something to do under the car.

Pete


It really does not take much movement of the transaxle to get the job done. You will want two floor jacks but a jack stand for the trans will do in a pinch.
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  #16  
Old 05-26-2012, 06:31 PM
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Thanks for all the good input. My transmission wasn't ready yesterday so I will have to wait until Monday.

I have independent rear suspension so I will leave the half shafts off so they won't get in the way. I also removed the rear apron and rear fenders so I have lots of access. I will fit the motor to the transmision and then decide if I am going to do it in one piece or in stages.

In the meantime I mounted the taper lock to the motor shaft and then had to remove it because it was too close to the motor and that made the flywheel scrape on the adapter bracket. I used a puller to remove it but the parts came off as one piece, so now I need to figure out how to pull them apart. I should have just pulled it up about .125 inch but too late now.
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Last edited by ricklearned; 05-27-2012 at 01:36 PM. Reason: Clarification
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  #17  
Old 05-27-2012, 09:56 PM
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Default Re: Rick's 1973 VW Super Beetle build

I finally got the taperlock separatel and reinstalled with more clearance for the flywheel.

Here are some pictures of the flywheel and the adapter plate. That is a VW flywheel that has been lightened and balanced. It only weighs 7lbs vs the stock weight of about 13lbs. The only negative is that I can't use my gland nut device that runs on the starter ring. The picture on the right shows the clearance that I worked so hard to get.

This build has been a serial group of 1/8 " challenges. LOL
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File Type: jpg 211205 pic download 1886.jpg (75.5 KB, 20 views)
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Last edited by ricklearned; 05-27-2012 at 09:59 PM.
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  #18  
Old 05-28-2012, 01:25 AM
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Ziggythewiz Ziggythewiz is offline
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Default Re: Rick's 1973 VW Super Beetle build

You're doing great! When I first started it took me a week or two to realize I had one too many 1/8".
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  #19  
Old 05-28-2012, 12:01 PM
clonezero clonezero is offline
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Default Re: Rick's 1973 VW Super Beetle build

Why did you go with a lightened flywheel? On my bug I had the flywheel and pressure plate ballanced. But not lightened. Was this a mistake?
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  #20  
Old 05-28-2012, 12:04 PM
njloof njloof is offline
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They say every pound off the flywheel is like 10 pounds off the frame.

My car already had an aftermarket aluminum flywheel, so I'll probably leave it alone.
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