DIY Electric Car Forums > EV Conversions and Builds > All EV Conversions and Builds

alvin · #41 07-10-2012, 02:20 PM

Hi Rick

Have you charged your pack yet? If yes ,what kind of charger and to what voltage did you charge?

I got the same batteries and they are still in the boxes. They were all at 3.331 volts when they got here,now they are at 3.328volts. It has been 2 weeks now.

I am still doing some restoration work on the car. I am using floodies to move it around while working on it.

Alvin

ricklearned · #42 07-10-2012, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alvin

Hi Rick

Have you charged your pack yet? If yes ,what kind of charger and to what voltage did you charge?

I got the same batteries and they are still in the boxes. They were all at 3.331 volts when they got here,now they are at 3.328volts. It has been 2 weeks now.

I am still doing some restoration work on the car. I am using floodies to move it around while working on it.

Alvin

Alvin,

Yes I charged my pack yesterday. I installed 32 cells in two packs of 16 cells under the seats of my VW. I am using two Meanwell 48 volt power supplies in series. They can be adjusted and I have them set for a total voltage of 117 volts (3.65 per cell) I never saw the Amps decrease from the 11 amps I started charging with. They are now resting at 3.43. I am monitoring them with cellogs using a cellog board RWaudio sold me. I have one cell in the group that got to 3.70. My power supply won't go any higher so I think I am being conservative.

I have an EV Display which I bought from EV Werks and I can track Amps, Volts and Amphours. I also use a light objects programmable voltmeter that I can set to turn off the charger when it reaches a particular voltage.

I should add that I did cycle one of my unused cells with my Power Lab. I don't have the voltage detail but I got 47 Ahrs into one of the new cells and on discharge, to 2.8 volts, I got 94.5 Ahrs out of it. That would lead me to believe that they came to me at about a 50% charge leveI a My graph didn't save so I don't have other details. I will try another cycle but since I am limited to 6 Amps charging current it is going to take a long time.
Rick

ricklearned · #43 07-11-2012, 06:56 PM

I got my contactor today, put the tires on it and tried one more time to adjust the brakes. I had no luck with the brakes but got it running and did a three point turn in the drive way and garage.

Now I need to get the turn signals and brake lights working so I can take it to a local mechanic and get an alignment and the brakes bled and adjusted. The hand brake is the only brake I have that works at this moment. Fortunately the mechanic is 1/4 mile away but I have to cross Pacific Coast Highway. I will plan the time and my course carefully.

It was not enough to warrant an EV grin but I did just have a beer to celebrate. It was a long, but very rewarding day.

Ziggythewiz · #44 07-11-2012, 07:52 PM

What kind of brakes do you have? Drums are pretty easy to adjust with the wheels up. Alignment's not too tough, but is lots of trial and error.

ricklearned · #45 07-11-2012, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ziggythewiz

What kind of brakes do you have? Drums are pretty easy to adjust with the wheels up. Alignment's not too tough, but is lots of trial and error.

I rebuilt the front end with new discs. I also replaced the master cylinder and put new drums, pads and cylinders in the rear. I adjusted the rears so I have a little friction. I replaced every hose and all the pipes except the main one that goes from from to back. I tried to bleed the brakes and got a soft pedal. I didn't bench bleed the master cylinder like some have done. After going through a quart of brake fluid I bought some speed bleeders and went through almost another quart of fluid and still a soft pedal. I am ready to pay a mechanic to get the brakes bled and give me a sanity check that my brakes are good.

As far as alignment is concerned, since I replaced all the ball joints and tie rods I also want a mechanic to give me a sanity check on that as well. I want to run it with as little toe in as possible so I have less Rolling Resistance. I may adjust the alignment my self temporarily because I am thinking about going to a place that does alignment and has a four point scale. I want to get a reference of the weight balance for the next phase of my battery pack

onegreenev · #46 07-11-2012, 10:40 PM

Check the master cylinder again. To bleed that sucker you need to get a healthy wad of rags and with someone in the drivers seat with the foot on the pedal under pressure you need to slightly break loose the connections to each line going into the master cylinder. One at a time under pressure. Keep your wrench on the nut and tighten down before pressure is released. You may get some air out.

To bleed you bleed one at at time from the furthest away in the rear then the next furthest away then next and then closest. You also need to manually adjust your brakes prior to bleeding. How many bleeders do you have on your front calipers? Mine have two each and each one needs bleeding. Is the master cylinder the same as the one that was replaced? Did you move or adjust the master cylinder push rod get changed.

Could be that a line is kinked or the main line is clogged a bit. If your old lines looked ugly maybe changing all your lines is in order. I needed to change the master cylinder and main line and all soft lines. Rear wheel cylinders will be replaced as well. New drums and new front disc brake setup.

Have another good look at your setup. Try readjusting your shoes. Sure you have the right sized parts?

ricklearned · #47 07-11-2012, 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onegreenev

Check the master cylinder again. To bleed that sucker you need to get a healthy wad of rags and with someone in the drivers seat with the foot on the pedal under pressure you need to slightly break loose the connections to each line going into the master cylinder. One at a time under pressure. Keep your wrench on the nut and tighten down before pressure is released. You may get some air out.

To bleed you bleed one at at time from the furthest away in the rear then the next furthest away then next and then closest. You also need to manually adjust your brakes prior to bleeding. How many bleeders do you have on your front calipers? Mine have two each and each one needs bleeding. Is the master cylinder the same as the one that was replaced? Did you move or adjust the master cylinder push rod get changed.

Could be that a line is kinked or the main line is clogged a bit. If your old lines looked ugly maybe changing all your lines is in order. I needed to change the master cylinder and main line and all soft lines. Rear wheel cylinders will be replaced as well. New drums and new front disc brake setup.

Have another good look at your setup. Try readjusting your shoes. Sure you have the right sized parts?

Pete,
Thanks for the pointers. I manually adjusted the rears to the point that the shoes are dragging on the drums. I won't have a helper until Saturday and my arms are long but not long enough to hold down the pedal while I tighten the nuts on the master cylinder. I already replaced all the hoses and all the lines except the main one from front to back. I have two bleeders on the calipers and went through a quart with a helper and another quart after I got the speed bleeders.

I am really looking forward to working on getting the turn signals other miscellaneous 12 volt stuff. I am happy deferring to a nearby mechanic for my brake issues, since I am at a point of diminishing returns with regards to my brakes.

onegreenev · #48 07-11-2012, 11:43 PM

Adjust them until they are tight then back them off. Not just until they are touching. Once tight they might center themselves. They might not be centered yet. Yes, you may need to defer to a local brake mechanic. Be sure they are competent mechanics and willing to really figure out whats not right. I learned what I know because I do not trust most mechanics. Some are great. Most have no clue. Most can turn a wrench but can't diagnose.