Ex-Ray goes in on the top triple but slightly below it for crash protection.
perfectly visible and on a cnc 2mm alu frame sturdy enough to push the buttons without flexing.
speed pickup on the back wheel for easy motor rpm conversion.
You can indeed set the start point and finish of the kelly throttle input, however new Kelly's don't like pot throttles. They operate much more smoothly on Hall effect 0-5v throttles I have found..
You assume that 0-100% rotation on the pot is 0-5k....
The magura I had a while back, I tested, 0-100% twist on the grip was 0-5k. After taking it apart and testing, the last part of actual rotation on that pot didn't seem to do anything, it would just stay at 5k.
Basically, if you set the top end to 80% and the bottom to 20%, then you only need to see 1-4v from the throttle. So no you dont need full operational range with a Hall effect throttle.
The Kelly throttles work well enough, but are a poor fit and shape (too short a body, and convex shape make it uncomfortable). They are nice and cheap though.
We make our own for TTX02, we may make these available to the EVMotorcycle world shortly..
Yes the belt did have the predicted effects and it looks fantastic.
have ordered the controller, should be here end of week ($2500)
the belt weighes about 350gr and a 520 race chain weighes 2.2kg !!
Ive had 9 goes at getting the pitch of the teeth right so the belt wouldnt climb up over them. ended up being 9.94mm and with the help of parametric geometry (Autodesk Inventor) the product of that dimension is the diameter of the pully (228mm).
lining up the belt over 1:1 scale printouts.
The first go I made in wood was way off. climbed up in quarter of a turn.
3D of layered assembly. Will be made out of white Nylon 10mm.
its not a motocross bike. Im not going to worry about jumping.
I will run an unsprung idler just after the front pully to increase wrap and traction as it will need it most there.
Oh and what motors are you going to use you can't still be thinking about the mars I mean even a noob like me knows thta 2 of those motors will give you a top speed of 140kmh whice still is not bad but... The faster the moer fun it is to race
This project is flying together faster than some other simpler projects Ive had. Even money is coming along, I should be testing this in July.
Yes of course the ME0913 is the only motor by far that will suit this bike.
Your only a noob in so much as you havent seen the true potential of this motor even though Ive already pointed out that the cooling system is inadequate for it. I wouldnt be surprised if the fan was the same part of the 3001.
As long as this motor gets massive air it will handle what Im throwing at it.
Youve probly already figured out what controller Im using and yes it does have the potential to turn my whole workshop into a black hole if the motor is not cooled properly.
You are also still in the habit of thinking the motor is where the power comes from.
Wrong The power comes from the battery / controller
The motor is the transmission, Ive already explained this. It will turn 15% of whatever it gets into heat and spit the other 85% out at the drive wheel. All I have to do is remove that heat out of the windings and make sure the windings arnt arcing or cross firing under full voltage.
Im a Mechanical Designer NOT an engineer.
An engineer reads the spec sheet and pushes the buttons on his calculator and thats it.
A designer doesnt do math. He first evaluates the design and sees where it needs to be improved and then improves the design. Everything has to be modified.
Neat, but two questions:
1. Is that really strong enough?
2. I wonder if the natural slipperiness of the material might make the belt more prone to slipping over the teeth?
In goes the controller. Had to completely redesign the subframe around the controller. The tray in 2mm alloy might act as a heatsink and the other 3 sides will get ducted air.
Nice work on the bracket. What's with the separate capacitor box, are those the capacitors for the controller in a separate box or are they extra capacitors?
That comes with the controller. Its good for motorcycles cause if they were inside the main box it would have been too big to put anywhere. this way its easier to fit.
been doing some of the low voltage work.
Using the harnesses supplied by Kelly was half the work already done.
I have a handlebar mounted precharge switch, reverse and boost button.
The boost function supplies full 1000 amps regardless of throttle position ??? not sure how effective this will be on track but wired it up anyway, likewise the reverse function...why ??? because its there.
I have a cheapo 200v voltmeter to let me know if the battery voltage is low enough to engage to controller. Over 136v and the controller goes into fault mode.
The cap box assembly is going in under here on another sheet aly tray.
I do suppose your Electric Race Bike will be used for a racing purpose. Then, why use a needle amp meter? The high G-forces implied in racing will make your reading impossible. Simply try to shake your meter and see if the needle is moving...
Yeah I wish
The Ammeter Im using is a Kelly one which taps straight into the controller ie no shunt. It reads out in percentage not amps.
Il test it first, if it wobbles Il try something else.
Why put a toggle switch on the precharge resistor? Its ALWAYS supposed to be connected. If you insist on doing that, you need to have a "toggle" that will work with Pack voltage. most are rated at 12VDC, 120VAC. 120VDC will NOT work on a 120VAC rated switch, it will arc.
I don't know why people think they need the precharge on a switch. Once the caps are charged inside the kelly, there is no current flow. You could keep that bike sitting there for months and the precharge will not discharge the pack. Just wire it across and be done, its not neccessary to switch the precharge.
I'm not sure what the motion ratio is on your swingarm but it looks like if you go over a large-ish bump your suspension linkage is going to go through the controller bracket.
(First picture of post #103)
EDIT: On second inspection, I may have mistaken non-moving parts for moving parts. Ignore.
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