[hoowahfun]

Originally Posted by PStechPaul

The melted necklace is one reason why most outlets are now wired with the ground pin up. That way it is usually the first pin that will be cointacted by a metal object such as a neclace or clothes hanger. If the current goes through the object to the hot blade, it should trip the GFCI. But if the object strikes the hot and neutral, it is seen as a normal load by the GFCI and it won't trip. The main breaker will probably trip eventually, unless the load burns up or melts first, as in this case.

I couldn't find the part number for the motor but it looks like a 1/3 HP HVAC belt drive blower motor something like this:
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/AO-...E63?Pid=search

A split phase motor has an auxiliary starting winding which has less inductance than the main winding and creates a rotating field that starts the motor. Then a centrifugal switch removes it once it reaches close to its design speed of 1725 RPM. The 6.5 amp rating indicates it may not be very efficient. 120V at 6.5A is 780VA, while 1/3HP is about 250W, so you are losing almost 500VA which is probably about half reaactive and half resistive (or actual power wasted as heat). The motor listed above is rated only about 60% efficiency.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/AO-...&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1
This motor is 1/2 HP and is about 65% efficient, with a full load current of 7.2 amps. About the same current as your motor but twice the power. It is also split phase.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELECTRIC-MOT...item3a698c7029
This motor is 1/2 HP, 120/240V, and 5.2A. It is capacitor start and run, and is rated at 86% efficiency, which is excellent.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genteq-5SME3...item336d8c8714
That's a 1HP 1050 RPM motor which is higher torque, but it is not sealed so maybe not good for outdoor use.

Your motor might do the job for you, but if not, there are many available at reasonable cost on eBay or Craigs List. Good luck with your project.

I'm not very familiar with various motor types (split phase, capacitor, etc.) or their uses, but this is good information. My biggest concern now is having an undersized motor and even the possibility of ruining the motor if stalled. Although it's free I hate to let something go to waste due to bad planning. The other part of me is eager for first hand practical experience. I'll have to think about this as I may put the tiller on hold and use the motor for another conversion of some kind.

[rwaudio]

Originally Posted by hoowahfun

Hello everyone, new to the forum but I've been browsing through and reading many of your posts for a while now.

I've decided that my first EV build will be a conversion of an old gas tiller to a corded AC electric one. Thought this would be simple enough to get my feet wet.

The tiller, as far as I can tell from research, is a 1968 Ariens Jet. I remember using this in the garden when I was a kid. My grandpa said he thought it was his dad's....so it has some history to it which means a lot to me . While it would be cool to completely restore it to an original state, I feel the need to carry it on into the future .

Anyways, I have drawn an electrical diagram that shows how I intend to wire it up. Being no electrical engineer, I'd like to get some input from your experience as a check on my work so far. The diagram is below. In case you're wondering, the motor came out of the attic fan in my house...wouldn't be surprised if it dates back to when it was built in 1970. Thanks!

Attachment 13367

If I was going to tackle a project like this I would probably look for an old table saw motor, (Ideally the belt driven style) it has good torque but a stall won't damage it. Find a saw with other problems and the motor might be virtually free. It also has a suitable switch and wiring to simplify requirements, even if they have to be replaced you know what you need. Some models are loud, but the older ones I've used are fairly quiet.

[Dennis]

The motor catalog number I posted is used in table saws. Hence, the reason it's for woodworking applications. It is a capacitor-start, capacitor-run motor that if stalled for a short bit will not damage it, unlike a split phase motor. I would not use a motor from an old saw because it could be a universal motor which are not very powerful and are very unreliable since they have brushes.

The motor I selected for you also has very good speed regulation under load in that its full load speed is 3512 RPM and at 1.5 times overload the speed drops to 3455 RPM which is an overall speed change of just 1.6%. Just to prove that I know what I am talking about and am not some fake internet expert. I will BUY this motor for you and have it shipped to you. I know what I am talking about and am willing to put my money where my mouth is, that if this motor fails then you can tell the this whole forum that I should not be listened to for advice.

You know you are dealing with someone who knows their stuff if they are willing to spend their own money to prove it.

[hoowahfun]

Originally Posted by Dennis

The motor catalog number I posted is used in table saws. Hence, the reason it's for woodworking applications. It is a capacitor-start, capacitor-run motor that if stalled for a short bit will not damage it, unlike a split phase motor. I would not use a motor from an old saw because it could be a universal motor which are not very powerful and are very unreliable since they have brushes.

The motor I selected for you also has very good speed regulation under load in that its full load speed is 3512 RPM and at 1.5 times overload the speed drops to 3455 RPM which is an overall speed change of just 1.6%. Just to prove that I know what I am talking about and am not some fake internet expert. I will BUY this motor for you and have it shipped to you. I know what I am talking about and am willing to put my money where my mouth is, that if this motor fails then you can tell the this whole forum that I should not be listened to for advice.

You know you are dealing with someone who knows their stuff if they are willing to spend their own money to prove it.

So just to make sure I read this right, you're willing to buy a motor and send it to me for free to make your point?

[Dennis]

Originally Posted by hoowahfun

So just to make sure I read this right, you're willing to buy a motor and send it to me for free to make your point?

The advice you receive must be accurate or else we will lose members from our advice being wrong and a disgruntled member will spread the word to others that the members here do not know their stuff and thus as a result we will not gain more members. I do not want that to happen and so I want your conversion to be successful so that you can spread the word to you friends to come to this forum so it can grow as the #1 source for information on EV related information.