[jyanof]

Originally Posted by PStechPaul

Yes, you replied while I was correcting that.

oops, i'm too fast! :P

[jyanof]

Originally Posted by omonoid

jyanof: My max temp in that test was about 168 F vs the amb temp of 90. It seems like i may have an overheating problem compared to what everyone else is reporting. Any suggestions

Well, most of your problems with temperature are because the controller is putting out so much current. A heatsink would help (i got an aluminum extrusion off ebay) but you should do your best to keep the current down.

I thought i had a better picture, but this is my heatsink - the curtis has since been replaced with the DIY controller. There are fans underneath.



just to prove i'm actually using the DIY controller...


To keep things cool, try shifting gears so that the motor rpms are as high. Not sure what your motor is rated, but I keep my Impulse 9 around 5k rpms while cruising and a smaller motor should surely handle something similar. For me, that means I stay in 1st until 25 mph, 2nd to 40 mph, and 3rd to 55 mph. I think my overall gear ratio is a little larger than yours, so you might be able to go faster in the same gear. You also may have a tough time shifting gears without a clutch, but it'll keep your motor amps down - see if you can get down to ~250 while cruising.

As an aside, your motor must be getting hot too, no?

And, that shunt should work fine. I have a 500A 50mv shunt in the motor loop and have used a relay to toggle between that and a battery loop shunt.

[omonoid]

I have no way of measuring motor rpms or motor temp. At least i dont think. Is there a cheap way to get that data?

Are there calculations to follow to figure what a good rpm to shoot for is based off my gear ratio and motor size?

I'm thinking maybe stick i small computer fan in the plexyglass sidewall of the controller if space permits, and if i need to, ill add heat sink on the bottom. A fan seems like it would dissipate more heat than heat sink right? plus im adding a fan to my charger so it will be convenient to add a second.

[jyanof]

Originally Posted by omonoid

I have no way of measuring motor rpms or motor temp. At least i dont think. Is there a cheap way to get that data?

Are there calculations to follow to figure what a good rpm to shoot for is based off my gear ratio and motor size?

I'm thinking maybe stick i small computer fan in the plexyglass sidewall of the controller if space permits, and if i need to, ill add heat sink on the bottom. A fan seems like it would dissipate more heat than heat sink right? plus im adding a fan to my charger so it will be convenient to add a second.

here's a speed/motor rpm calculator i found from a quick google search
http://www.advanced-ev.com/Calculato...ize/index.html

there's always the hand temp sensor - after a trip, see if you can keep your hand on the motor for a few seconds. If so, definitely good. Or, there are cheap IR thermometers out there for 10-$15. Should give you a ball park idea, anyway.

a fan on the internals would do little, actually. I assume you put the controller together, so you know that the mosfets/diodes are clamped to the aluminum heat spreader which is bolted to the base plate. That's a very good thermal connection from the mosfets to the baseplate. Transferring heat from a heat-source to air is all about maximizing the surface area in contact with the air. Increasing the surface area with a finned heatsink will far surpass the surface area inside the controller and provide a much better cooling mechanism. Not that a fan inside would hurt from a cooling perspective, but you'll subject your controller to a bunch of crap blowing in for only a small gain. No one i know has actually done it though, so maybe try it out and see if it stays any cooler.

[mora]

Originally Posted by omonoid

Is there any sort of BMS?

Yes, there is ongoing project for BMS. http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/...tem_.28Rev1.29 I think nobody has built one yet, at least I haven't seen any installations documented on Ecomodder. That LCD display also has alarm output which could control a relay instead of buzzer. Alarm output is somewhat programmable and will trigger on different temp readings (motor, battery and/or controller) and low SOC reading.

My heatsink is pretty similar to jyanof's. I found it from metal recycler.

whats throttle vs raw throttle. And can you repeat what i need to change to make it so 0 throttle corresponds to not pushing on the pedal

Throttle is calculated throttle value which includes those t-pwm-gain, t-pos-gain, c-rr and pwm things. This calculation has max value and you are getting the max reading when you floor the throttle.

Raw throttle is what it says, raw potbox reading.

Like alvin mentioned, 718 is your zero throttle position. You could set the limit to 710 instead of 683. You've left a good play there. In your case the value lowers when you move the pedal towards the floor. Full throttle at 416 means you should set limit to 420. Or something close to that. Now your limit is at 413 which you will never reach.

All this will likely make no difference to your acceleration but at least you get 100% full throttle and not 99%. You will also avoid high pedal lockout during startup.

My car is pretty close to 2000lbs and I run 144V/90Ah lithium pack. Even at 96V/90Ah acceleration was fine. I rarely use first gear. I won't believe your ADC 8" is not enough of motor. Maybe your batteries are getting tired or you have a loose/corroded connection somewhere? Has it always been like that slow? Voltage readings from batteries during acceleration would be cool but maybe hard to obtain.

[alvin]

Originally Posted by omonoid

alvin:
check this short vid out (there is sound). Thats easier than me explaining my test results.
https://vimeo.com/47560927
(currently processing for 20 more min)

It looks like you are getting nearly full throttle.

It sounds like you are really straining to push the accelerator with your foot.

[Ziggythewiz]

Originally Posted by omonoid

I have no way of measuring motor rpms or motor temp. At least i dont think. Is there a cheap way to get that data?

Are there calculations to follow to figure what a good rpm to shoot for is based off my gear ratio and motor size?

I'm thinking maybe stick i small computer fan in the plexyglass sidewall of the controller if space permits, and if i need to, ill add heat sink on the bottom. A fan seems like it would dissipate more heat than heat sink right? plus im adding a fan to my charger so it will be convenient to add a second.

The cheap way to measure RPMs is to research your gear ratios, then find the right Formulas (they are here and all over google) to turn your MPH into motor RPM. Then you will know what your RPMs are at a given speed and gear.

You need a heat sink. A fan only provides air flow over surface area, but if you have no surface area that will do nothing. You can get a nice aluminum heat sink on ebay with 1.5-2" fins for around $20-30. Then if necessary you can add a fan to that for even more cooling. I didn't need to; my heat sink never gets hot.