[Woodsmith]

Mine was a bit loose on the 35mm^2 crimps I was using.
I was advised here that it might be due to thinner wall budget terminals.

So I recrimped using the 25mm^2 anvils. That left sharp flash sticking out so I second crimped with the hexagon turned one flat to crimp down the flash.


The terminal is very very tight.
I then sealed it with adhesive lined heat shrink.

[Ace_bridger]

Mora, Woody,

Thanks for the top tip. To be honest, I hadn't appreciatted that the motor loop shoul dbe larger than the battery loop. The motor loop is already on the car and I will check the size.

I know that the -ve is actually two cables parallelled but will check the +ve.

Whilst on that topic (ish), Mora, the Open Revolt has the M-ve as the output...did you simply connect the motor +ve to the pack +ve and the motor -ve to the controller output? I know that's what I understand to be correct but can't see why the controller would control the motor -ve and hence it leaves me with a niggling doubt.

I assumed that the PWM voltage stays constant whilst the duty cycled varied but I will follow your advice as more experienced EVers.

Originally Posted by mora

Reuse the 70mm^2 cable for motor loop if it isn't that big already. Motor amps can get to 500A where 35mm^2 cable won't do well. Maybe it is ok for really short times. That loop should be short anyway so there is not much weight added even if you use thicker cable.

edit: oops, Woodsmith suggested the same already. Should have read more carefully.

[Ace_bridger]

Thanks Woody...and thanks for adding the pics. Helps muchly.

Originally Posted by Woodsmith

Mine was a bit loose on the 35mm^2 crimps I was using.
I was advised here that it might be due to thinner wall budget terminals.

So I recrimped using the 25mm^2 anvils. That left sharp flash sticking out so I second crimped with the hexagon turned one flat to crimp down the flash.


The terminal is very very tight.
I then sealed it with adhesive lined heat shrink.

[Ace_bridger]

Thanks for advice and video Pete. I'd not really considered that there was another way of crimping.

I agree that the hammer looks more robust...but my wife would be disappointed if I didn't use my chistmas present!! Thanks to your advice I will be including a more thorough crimp inspection in my routine maintenance checks now.

Originally Posted by onegreenev

Not saying that they don't work. Many have used them for years trouble free but to me after seeing the insides it leaves it open to coming loose and corrosion getting in deep over time. I just trust my setup better. I also did not spend more than needed. Even if I open shop and do many EV conversions I will stick to the manual crimp method. I prefer quality over looks but I also like quality with looks if possible. I'd like to see the hydraulic crimpers put a bit more pressure on the lug to tighten the connection. That is a lot of tiny wires inside to connect up. If they all connect solidly then the connection remains cooler too.

The photos speak for themselves. But everyone still insists on those good looking things. They don't pull out because of the ridge you impart on the cable. That does not mean it is a good solid internal crimp. It just means its tight and won't pull out. Mine on the other hand are solid and won't pull out but look uglier.

To each their own I guess. Just wanted once again to submit an alternative way that is proven to be a quality crimp if done like I have shown.

[mora]

Yes, motor+ to pack+ and motor- to controller M- bar. Pack+ and motor+ are supposed to meet at controllers B+ bar.

Originally Posted by Ace_bridger

the Open Revolt has the M-ve as the output...did you simply connect the motor +ve to the pack +ve and the motor -ve to the controller output?

Controller keeps chopping full pack voltage and motor sees lower voltage because of chopping happens really fast. Motor amps are always higher than pack amps because controller works like power in = power out (+ losses). Losses are minimal here. Power = voltage * current. Output voltage can't go above input voltage and as a result motor amps are always higher than pack amps. Equal at best. If you know duty cycle at given moment you can calculate (somewhat correct) motor voltage and amps.

Originally Posted by Ace_bridger

I assumed that the PWM voltage stays constant whilst the duty cycled varied but I will follow your advice as more experienced EVers.

[Woodsmith]

Originally Posted by Ace_bridger

Thanks for advice and video Pete. I'd not really considered that there was another way of crimping.

I agree that the hammer looks more robust...but my wife would be disappointed if I didn't use my chistmas present!! Thanks to your advice I will be including a more thorough crimp inspection in my routine maintenance checks now.

Some 4x4 chaps I know tend to think very deeply about the electrical connections to their winches, probably far more then some EV people do.
Their general method for testing the security of a terminal seems to be to hang the terminal on a hook on a beam and then lift themselves off the ground on it. If it can support their 200+ lbs off the ground then it is considered fairly sound.
They then solder it as well.

[Ace_bridger]

Thanks Mora,

I'll follow your advice.

Originally Posted by mora

Yes, motor+ to pack+ and motor- to controller M- bar. Pack+ and motor+ are supposed to meet at controllers B+ bar.


Controller keeps chopping full pack voltage and motor sees lower voltage because of chopping happens really fast. Motor amps are always higher than pack amps because controller works like power in = power out (+ losses). Losses are minimal here. Power = voltage * current. Output voltage can't go above input voltage and as a result motor amps are always higher than pack amps. Equal at best. If you know duty cycle at given moment you can calculate (somewhat correct) motor voltage and amps.

[Ace_bridger]

Cheers Woody!!

Originally Posted by Woodsmith

Some 4x4 chaps I know tend to think very deeply about the electrical connections to their winches, probably far more then some EV people do.
Their general method for testing the security of a terminal seems to be to hang the terminal on a hook on a beam and then lift themselves off the ground on it. If it can support their 200+ lbs off the ground then it is considered fairly sound.
They then solder it as well.

[Ace_bridger]

I had a good morning on the Golf today...for once the sun was out in Britian!! At one point I almost considered taking off one of my pairs of socks!! So mush for summer!!

Well, I isolated the 12V system from the car body today which was fairly straightforward as the previous owner had already done it!! To help fault find my 12V problem (indicators and side light issue) I had connect the battery to the body and all of the earths too so I just undid what I had done previously.

I finalised bonnet battery position and also boot battery positions, see pics. I also make provision for strapping the batteries down with ratchet straps. I only had two to hand so they're on but I need 4 more. It'll just be a case of fitting them once I get them.

My Elcon 2.5Kw charger will be located in the boot and I have decided that, although there is room in the battery tray, I will place it in the luggae space above the pack to help protect it from the slightly damper and dirtier environment of the battery tray. I think it will look nice inn there too. One of the pics below shows it in the tray but I'll move it from there.

The obvious thing about the photos is that there is space for two more Trojans in the rear battery tray...there's an obvious upgrade if the Open Revolt, rated at 144Vdc, would be happy with 168Vdc.

Err, what else did I do...oh yeah, I temporarily fitted the throttle body and hooked up the throttle cable to see if I was getting full movement on the throttle with the Golf's throttle cable travel. The throttle body I'm using is from a Rover 100 (oh, I've just been sick) and is lightweight plastic (that make all the difference with 400Kg of lead in there!). My Hall Effect TPS fits right on there where the old resistive sensor was so it's perfect and saved me hours of design and manufacture time.

I did get full movement so I'm good to go and set the HE sensor up with the outputs based on full movement. My wife sat in the driver's seat, having climbed across the passenger seat to get it, with Baby2 strappe dto her and Baby1 was in the passenger seat screaming that she wanted to sit in the driver's seat!! You can guess that this was a quick test!!

All good though and I'll go ahead and make the throttle enclosure from the scrap piece of perfect aluminium I found on the Chief Engineers radiator!! I'll fit the HE TPS to the throttle body and get it programmed to give me what voltages I need at zero and max throttle. It should simple but I'm yet to see the unforeseen!!

The vacuum pump is noisey so I will try and keep space to mount that on under the bonnet on the ply battery tray by the contoller and contactor box. It is currently bolted to the car body with 4 vibromount and it shakes the bumper!!

The last picture is of my temporary accessory battery with charger setup. I'll hard wire the charger and tidy up...promise!

I think that's it for today, a good day.

PS. Sorry, some of the pics are upside down. The first one is my breakfast upside down, tilt head to the right for the second, upside down for the third, head sideways to the right for the fourth...and the rest, I think, are obvious!!

[Ace_bridger]

She's alive!!! After a false start, with nothing when connected to 12V, the motor span into life when I hooked it up to 24V. Just a quick test to check that the motor is good before connecting up the controller and pack for a test run before final fitting of batteries and controller.

I just connected two batteries in series through an EV200 to the motor. With contactor closed the motor span up, awesoome!!

I've since started connecting up the controller for the dry run mentioned above. I'm going to connect up 24V to the controller with the throttle sensor before going for the full 144V just in case!!

Photos to follow once I get them off my phone.

I've lost my second EV200 which was due to be my pre charge contactor so I'll just sticjk the resistor straight across the main contactor for this test run.

Awesome day yesterday hearing the first signs of life from The Voltswagon!!!