[Dustin_mud]

Looks like a killer car and the zombie is a fast fast car, but I would like to keep only one motor. Thanks for the info and links guys, keep them coming

[Bowser330]

Originally Posted by Dustin_mud

Looks like a killer car and the zombie is a fast fast car, but I would like to keep only one motor. Thanks for the info and links guys, keep them coming

Is there a particular reason why you want to go single motor?
If it's cost then keep in mind the impulse9 is about 1/2 the price of a Warp11HV...If its just simplicity of the build then I understand, and the Warp11HV would be one of the best if not the best single motor to go with.

However if you are choosing a single motor, you will need a more powerful controller, something giving you 2000A, you will not obtain the performance of a 2011 5.0 V8 Mustang with the a single motor and a 1000A controller. If 1000A = 300ftlbs in a Warp11HV then 2000A =~ 600ftlbs.



2000rpm = 250ftlbs wtq
3000rpm = 300ftlbs wtq
4000rpm = 350ftlbs wtq

2011 Mustang 5.0 GT Auto transmission gear ratios:
1st 4.17 * 3.15 = 13.1
2nd 2.34 * 3.15 = 7.37
3rd 1.52 * 3.15 = 4.79
4th 1.14 * 3.15 = 3.59
5th 0.87
6th 0.69
Final drive 3.15:1

[drgrieve]

How do you compare a ICE engine to a electric motor (EM)? They perform very differently. Using peak values and matching doesn't seem to make much sense.

I'm not even aware of a rule of thumb that people may use?

1. The starting torque of the EM is much higher than ICE, but then a ICE can cheat by dropping the clutch.
2. The effective RPM band of the EM is much wider
3. Generally the ICE torque peaks at a higher RPM giving more hp.

Do you ignore "tricks" and just add up the area under the curve?

Measure 0-60 (which favours EM) or measure 0-120 mph? If you just measure 60-120 that would be harder to beat.

[Bowser330]

Originally Posted by drgrieve

How do you compare a ICE engine to a electric motor (EM)? They perform very differently. Using peak values and matching doesn't seem to make much sense.

I'm not even aware of a rule of thumb that people may use?

1. The starting torque of the EM is much higher than ICE, but then a ICE can cheat by dropping the clutch.
2. The effective RPM band of the EM is much wider
3. Generally the ICE torque peaks at a higher RPM giving more hp.

Do you ignore "tricks" and just add up the area under the curve?

Measure 0-60 (which favours EM) or measure 0-120 mph? If you just measure 60-120 that would be harder to beat.

It doesn't match up and I wasn't doing that I was just providing data to the OP who asked for help on a system that was similar in performance to a ford v8.

Right the e-motor has the starting torque but if you don't provide enough voltage then it falls off at higher rpm. 2000a draw causes significant sag to even the best packs. So that 600ftlbs tq that I stated before may only be avialable upto maybe 2000rpm.

High revving ac induction motors like the ones tesla uses do have higher effective rpm bands so with lower power they are able to have similar performance to ices. However dc technology doesn't have the rpm infact the larger motor you get the lower the peak rpm you get. You need voltage for rpm but you need amps for torque and you cant have both peaking at the sametime unless you have awesome batteries.

A good 0-60 in the e-motor requires good gearing strategy.

There are differences so comparing isnt easy but maybe just comparing the area under the curve like you said is okay.

[Dustin_mud]

I was alway brought up with the k.i.s.s method of building(keep it simple stupid) so single motor seem a lot more simple for my first preformance build. I was thinking on a 320v pack and set the controller at around 1400 or 1500amp, which I would think would be a killer. I'm looking into the zilla 2k but I do have a friend who thinks he can build a controller, know any info or thread I can send him on building one?

[GerhardRP]

Originally Posted by Dustin_mud

I was alway brought up with the k.i.s.s method of building(keep it simple stupid) so single motor seem a lot more simple for my first preformance build. I was thinking on a 320v pack and set the controller at around 1400 or 1500amp, which I would think would be a killer. I'm looking into the zilla 2k but I do have a friend who thinks he can build a controller, know any info or thread I can send him on building one?

Unless your friend has already built a reliable 1000A controller, don't count on a higher power one producing anything but smoke.

[Dustin_mud]

Nice...lol

[Bowser330]

now now, no reason to be so harsh...we don't know the skill sets his friend has...

Dustin there is a DIY 144V (144V nominal so ~158V max charged) 500A controller available from Paul&Sabrina for 600$ (http://www.paulandsabrinasevstuff.com/store/page3.html)

Your friend can start there, build that controller up, and then expand on the control and power sections to enable it to handle more voltage and amperage...I also heard that Paul has already started on a 1000A option so you could email him and they might sell you the kit with parts for the 1000A version...

Even if the 1000A version was 1000$ from P&S.com you could deviate from your KISS method, get two 1000A controllers for 2000$ and get two Warp9 motors for 3800$ = Total = 5,800$ vs. Soliton1 3000$ + Warp11HV = 3600$ = 6,600$

Jack Rickard's Dyno shows Warp9 delivering 250ftlbs of torque with 1000A which would be 500fltbs with dual motors & controllers!

Warp11HV would deliver ~300fltbs w/ 1000A

[Dustin_mud]

Finally got to read most of BMW build and very impressed on what he got out of a 11Hv

[Bowser330]

Not sure if you read this in the thread or not, but Crodriver's Warp11HV was not off the shelf, it was "built" e.g. additional kevlar banding, higher speed bearings, higher voltage terminals, forced air cooling, etc, etc.