I would like to throw another water cooling subject on the table.
Curtis 1238R with a custom cold plate made by Ivansgarage.
It is of the "Bath tub" design.
It uses the thermo-siphon principal. Cold liquid in at the bottom, warm liquid out the top in a natural convection manner.
Some say it is inefficient because there are "dead" spots with no flow.
Some say it makes the upper controller run hotter than the lower.
Some say it will corrode and ruin the controller.
All are valid points.
it is inefficient because there are "dead" spots with no flow.
When a liquid is in a dynamic environment, it will react most at the point of greatest energy absorption. So while the complaint is correct, the liquid never really stands still.
it makes the upper controller run hotter than the lower.
This is partly true, but greater water volume is a good "Band-aid" to this glitch.
it will corrode and ruin the controller.
The heat and pressures in a conventional ICE cooling system does not exist here. Even then it takes years to do any real damage. But, careful addition of anti-corrosives will slow this down further. I am a proponent of the "direct contact" method of heat transfer.(Water contact) It is magnitudes more efficient than conduction alone.
So far, it is working really well. No leaks even when held by the 4 corner bolts alone. (Use a good anaerobic gasket compound-keep the surfaces flat)
I have about 2 GPM flow and am using a 50-50 solution of Propelyene Glycol.
It is cheapest from the Pet store. It is nice to work with and is environment friendly.