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Woody's Tractor Project

351K views 879 replies 45 participants last post by  Maker_of_Things 
#1 ·
Right, having started one project with the MR2 I have decided to start a second project as a learning platform.

I figured I'd take a leaf from Jimdear's book and build a sort of tractor type thing. With no need to be road legal I can do pretty much as I please.

So far I have collected together the following:
Lada Niva transfer box

6 1/2" golf buggy motor

Some 1/2" chain, 38 tooth sprocket and 12 tooth sprocket
Curtis 1214 36-48v controller
Land Rover discovery front axle
10m 35mm welding cable.

The motor didn't have a drive end cap so I made a wooden one (thanks for the nudge on that one Simon).

It also had a female shaft which seems to be a 3/4" 10 spline SAE keyspline. I couldn't find one of them so I made one.
I turned the major and minor diameters and swept the shaft back to full size to reduce stress risers from forming.

I then scribed the dimensions of the splines using the 60 tooth gear on the lathe as an index.

I then used a cutting disc in an angle grinder to cut the splines gaps.

And with a bit of fettling it fitted.

When I know what is happening on the other end of the shaft I will then heat treat it and it might then last a little while for playing.

The plan was to use the transfer box sideways as a transaxle with the locking diff in it. However, there is very little clearance around the input flange for a large sprocket to be fitted to bring the ratio down.
So I bought a Land Rover axle. Being a front axle is no problem as I can narrow it using short half shafts both sides and lock the track rod. If I find a rear axle then I can use the transfer box and make it a 4x4 with narrow axles.
I will keep it 48v to suit both the motor and the controller and use up some of the steel scrap I have floating about to make the chassis and miscellaneous parts.
 
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#4 ·
Great minds eh?:) One good thing is that the building game in Ireland is dead so stuff like minis can be had for pennies on the dollar! No need for a controller just a good contactor like a kilovac. So all thats needed would be an ev van with a trailer for the ev mini digger. Low carbon garden services ltd!
 
#6 ·
Got a great new job idea there Jack! :D
The building game was great up here in the Lake country
of the Northwoods of Wisconsin - then the bottom dropped out!

But the wealthy cabin owners from the big cities still use garden services BUT
this time of year - Plowing driveways of the white stuff :). EV plowing in -20 degree (err Fahrenheit) ... :eek:

Nice job on the spline Woody - I will be lurking!!
 
#5 ·
I'm sure the only thing coming down in cost here is the labour cost. machinery and hire charges don't seem much cheaper yet.

My neighbour needs a minidigger at some point soon so I reckon the prices are stying up until after he has hired one.:rolleyes:


I've got to find time to collect the Land Rover axle when the snow clears a bit. I don't even know what the dif ratio is yet. It might be better to just sell it on and get a series rear axle and have a known 4.7:1 diff.
 
#7 ·
I was back and forth in the snow to a neighbours house today as I am cat sitting for ten days. I was thinking that if I had a little tractor running I could be playing with a snow plough!:D

In the end the cold got the better of me and I brought the cat over to holiday at mine with my cats. Saves me the back and forth nonsense trying to get the cat to toilet outside.
 
#11 ·
I've just scored 5 Land Rover Defender wheels and tyres for free for this project.

Only down side is that they are down in Bordon Hampshire!

I still need to find another front axle though, preferably with brakes, and a means of getting a 7:1 reduction gearing between the motor and transfer box.:D
 
#12 ·
I've just scored 5 Land Rover Defender wheels and tyres for free for this project.

Only down side is that they are down in Bordon Hampshire!

I still need to find another front axle though, preferably with brakes, and a means of getting a 7:1 reduction gearing between the motor and transfer box.:D
Woody,

Tractor Thing Indeed:eek:

Good greif how much metal are you planing to move with that little golf cart motor.

Two truck axles
Necessary spindles and hubs and steering
Truck wheels
Transfer case

Anyway, joking aside, looking at the picture of the transfer case It looks like a jack shaft is going to be the only cheap answer for your 7:1 reduction if you go with chain drive.

You mentioned eariler that you don't have room for much gearing on the input side of the transfer case. In the picture it looks like you might be able to reroute the shifter stuff to allow more clearance.

If you keep adding weight and shafts and stuff you're going to need a lot more then 7:1 though.:D
 
#13 ·
Hiya Jim,

I'm using Land Rover parts as I know them and have converted them before. They will be shortened and stripped down to very little so weight won't be that bad, besides, motors can be replaced with bigger items!;)
I will play it by ear and see how 'big' it gets.:D

I will start with one narrowed Land Rover axle at the back with a big wheel on each end and small wheels for the front on go kart type steering.
If weight is a problem then I will cut out the centre of the axle and replace it with the transfer box and put the reduction gearing as chains between the transfer box outputs and the drive shafts. Or drop the transfer box and just have a chain drive to the axle flange.

The problem with the transfer box is that the selector shafts poke out right next to the input flange. I would need to extend the drive out beyond the selector shafts.
 
#14 ·
Woody,

I know you have already invested a lot of effort in your tractor thingy and will most likely continue with what you already have in mind. But I thought I would throw these ideas out just fort he heck of it.

Here is a link to a axle that would be perfect (If you could find a like item over there) these were made for the popular (over here) Ranch and Farm utility vehuicle.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2156122420373739&item=13-1430&catname=

Another path you could take, I think you should look to see what there is in England that compares to an International Cub Cadet, Bolans or Wheel Horse garden tractor or just the cast iron type transaxle, they are all are darn near indestructible when properly modified. Even stock they will handle a lot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Cub-Cadet-1200-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5638330bc3

My own electric conversion of a Cub Cadet was cheap and easy. With 48 volts it will reach 14 to 15 MPH. The nice thing is if you find an engineless model, you end up with everything else you need except the electric drive. I spent a probably less then 200.00 USD on the chassis (excepting the specific bits for tractor pulling) including paint.

Sorry, just ramblin on and on. Stuck in the house for a while will do that to you.

Have a great holiday season
 
#15 ·
Thanks Jim, I will look into your suggestions further and take the advice of someone wiser then myself.

I do like the look of the cub axle, I will need to see if there is something similar over here. If not I will be making my own. So far the items I have my eye on are free, if a little distant. I accept that free doesn't necessarily mean good.

I found another lawn tractor for £125 but the axle looks very weak so I passed it by.
I'll keep looking.

Have a great Christmas, Jim.:)
 
#16 ·
Woody,

Come on, cut out this "wiser than" crap. More opinionated might cover i,. different experiences might also.

I wish I had done half of the nice stuff you've done in metal, never mind what you have done in wood.

Everything that follows is based on my perception that what you want is a back yard (garden?) putt putt, something that can pull a little wagon or you can mount an implement on to do a bit of work. But still use it to run down the sidewalk to the corner.

Back to the tractor. The Cub transaxle is handy because of the included axles and wheel flanges (a common 5 bolt on 4.5 inch Ford and Chrysler pattern), internal brake, all reductions being internal and the single longitudinal 5/8th input shaft makes it easier to hook up an electric motor. But man, since it is built like a miniature farming tractor, it is heavy.

A couple of other Ideas, Have you thought about just getting a golf cart or industrial truck rear axle, then mounting the motor as it was intended? From there it would be easy to build something to fit your needs. The side winder type input shaft garden tractor and lawn tractor (there really IS a difference between them) transaxles would also work if you redid your motors front cover to allow it to take more side loading.

Going back to that transfer case (box) you have. Are you sure that rerouting/relocating the shifter stuff isn't possible. That would make adding a large sprocket easier. Of course that would give you a very heavy version of a side winder garden tractor axle without axles, flanges and brakes.

I would think that some where in England, there should be a wrecking yard for garden tractors. That would be a great place to find "stuff" like steering and linkage. Hope there is one close.

Nice thing about doing a small vehicle like this is it can be assembled in the cellar during the nasty months and then partially disassembled and reassembled outside in the spring. I found also, these little things can require everything electrical (with the exception of a heater) that a full sized EV will need. Great practice.

Good Holiday Wishes Back At You,
 
#17 ·
Hah! Wisdom comes in many guises as does experience and crap.:D
The cellar assembly also features in my plans given there is 4" of snow and a peasoup fog outside.

I have been extensively searching Ebay for lack of any other easy options today adn have found an engineless Husqvarna LR110. However, anything with the Cub type axle was intact and costly.

There is always one of these.:D:D
 
#18 ·
Woody,

Bear with me on this, just ocupying a slow day with nothing to do.

The Husky you linked to is a good example of a LAWN (YUK) tractor, everything is tin can. The motor would have to be mounted vertically. For this kind of setup you would expect a lot of side load on the front bearing and cover you made for the motor.

That Ferguson you refer to would have been a nice fixer upper for me 10 years ago. The price is very nice for what is there. Since the engine is also the frame it would take some doing to convert to BEV.

Now here is something that would be fun.
Again 10 years ago I would have probably went for it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Farm-Ga...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3a55ffe890


This is a nice sidewinder type GARDEN tractor. These Wheel Horse and the Sears sidewinders are probably some of the toughest little tractors out there.
When you build something out of one of these you are building a family heirloom. A lot of these are 40 - 50 years old and really don't show that much wear. Again sidewinders are going to put a side load on the wooden end cap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Wheel-Horse-Gar...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item45f0060934

Here is another Diamond in the rough. Inline drive train, very similar to a Cub. In line would work well for the end cap you made.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Allis-Chalmers-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item1c0eeae81b

Another fun project. I've seen these redone as a ICE setup but would work well as a electric. Convert one of the two wheel walk behind garden tractors into a articulated unit with the addition of a perminantly mounted wagon. You stand/sit in the wagon and "Plow Handle" steer. The wagon would be a great way to show off some wood work. The one shown below is just an example seems like everyone built one of these things. In fact I beleive you can still buy them new.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Planet-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item25555375ff

All in all, a nice way to while away an afternoon.

Be well
 
#19 ·
You notice, Jim, that it is Christmas day and we are online talking little old tractors. If we were local we'd probably be in the shed working on one together.:D
I have an excuse though that I celebrated on the winter solstice and this week is just time off.

That is a nice selection of machinery you've found there, we just don't have the same sort of thing on Ebay UK. There are a few in Tractor and Machinery and, maybe I'm sad, I bought a copy to read over Christmas!
Most are still either full size tractors or small but fully working and that is reflected in the price.

I must admit that I would like a miniature of one of these:


I don't think a sidewinder set up will be an issue as I can fit bearings on both sides of the drive member on the splined shaft before fitting the motor. Also if something works I can remachine the endcap in aluminium.

I should be careful of not spending too much time and effort making a big fun machine and not enough on learning about the electric motor drive system.;)
 
#20 ·
Woody,

I guess everybody has their own way to do Holidays.

Last thought for the day, I know that there are garden tractor pulling groups in England. I've seen You Tube stuff. They might be a good resource for locating what you want at a reasonable price.

Those big 4WD tractors are neat, I know what you mean about wanting one.

As far as building a tractor today, we probably would be. As it was today in between posts, I spent a bit of time today down in the cellar pulling down the blown Cub axle. Blew the diff when the tractor went up on the wheelie bars and the rear wheels spun up, right at the end of the pull, so when the wheels hit the ground. . . .boom. Got a new heavier diff carier, but I need to switch the riveted on ring gear. Started grinding rivet heads but had to give up after a while.

When you're old and sick you need to do what you can, when you can, if you are going to get anything done.

We started our newest puller last week. I'll get back to it tomorrow. 7 1/2 feet long 1350 lbs. with driver.

I have a small Ford pick up truck axle that is narrowed.
We have a 13 inch GE that will be mounted above the pumpkin of the axle We will chain drive from motor to the axle.

The Ford 7.5 inch axle has a 5.14:1 ratio and a positraction (may get rid of that).
With 12 inch rim x 12 inch wide x 26 inch diameter pulling tires we should see wheel speeds in the area 50 - 60 MPH depending on how fast we can spin the motor.
Our starting out battery will be around 160 volts and 5-600 amps. This tractor will be driven by my electric tractor partner. He is an old electric drag bike builder/driver.

I layed out and started cutting metal for a new additional battery box for the Cub Cadet to go over the motor in the front. I want to be able to go to 60 volts so that when I run into these guys with their "STOCK" tractors that the governor seems to have fallen off of (they turn 6000 rpm). The new battery will be a plug in deal, 48 volts when I pull wirth legal 13 horse people and 60 volts for the rest. The new battery will replace some preexisting weight.

I'm probably going to try to get at least one of the ICE tractors running again (they both have carburation problems). The single engine will be easier the double engine is more fun. We will see which one gets done.

I figure with the way my lungs are falling apart this will be my last year at this, I want to get as much done as possible.

I'll be watching to see what happens. I hope you find something "interesting" for your tractor thingy.
 
#21 ·
I'm sorry, Jim, to hear your illness is preventing you from doing as much as you would like. It will be a shame for you to stop pulling.:( Your advice will always be valuable even if you no longer compete.:)
Take care of yourself.

As a sideline (one can't have too many project ideas on the go), I have been doing some calcs and if I used the transfer box as a transaxle for a front drive trike and fitted the chain drive I have of 3.5:1 then I could get a nice 30mph from it with 23" tyres.
If I kept the weight down to 350kg with smooth bodywork plus 48v LiFePO4 pack it will do 30mph at 2.6kW at about 90W/mile.
 
#24 ·
So, having stripped the Land Rover axle and got the innards out to play with I happened across a really cheap 2CV gearbox with inboard disc brakes.

To make things simpler and to save weight I will use the gearbox as it is with the motor on the front and have it bolted to a chassis. I will use the Land Rover stub axles and hubs but nothing else. The diff, axle case, shafts and swivel housings, discs and calipers can all be sold on. The 2CV gear ratios are fairly low too so the motor will easily drive it around slowly.

This makes the fun mechanical bit quicker and easier but will get me to the electrical learning curve more effectively.

The 2CV gearbox could also be recycled into a trike later on though my jury is still out considering the pros and cons for front or rear wheel drive.
 
#26 ·
So, having stripped the Land Rover axle and got the innards out to play with I happened across a really cheap 2CV gearbox with inboard disc brakes.
If you feel "the urge" to take a picture - that would be nice :) .. I am still lurking on this...
 
#25 ·
Woodsmith,

Unless your plywood end cap is only temporary, you might consider coating it with an epoxy paint for oil resistance and putting a stainless band clamp around the circumference to maintain the integrity at the bolt hole locations. It looks good.

Chuck
 
#28 ·
The end cap is only temporary, I wanted to test run the motor to find out what it would do before committing myself to further work. I will remake it in aluminium when I know what sort of ounting I will need to make with it.
Same with the splined shaft, I may make another or a different shape one yet.

If you feel "the urge" to take a picture - that would be nice :) .. I am still lurking on this...
Very lax of me.;)

I hadn't photographed the axle as it was oily and muddy and out doors in the cold.
Then it was in the work shop in bits being washed.
At neither time did I want to get my phone greasy or take my gloves off until the job was done. I will try and post a workshop view this week end.
:)
 
#27 · (Edited)
I know Jim is lurking here also so here is my two "Commie" (Belarus) tractors... Errr they pull - but just around the farm :D... Reworked them both -

The snow was in early fall - it would now be up to the first step - lol....
 

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#29 · (Edited)
I know Jim is lurking here also so here is my two "Commie" (Belarus) tractors... Errr they pull - but just around the farm :D... Reworked them both -

The snow was in early fall - it would now be up to the first step - lol....
Dave,

Nice looking tractors. Wish I could afford stuff like that. My last tractor was a worn out 1938 Mini Mo. I couldn't afford to fix it when the welsh plugs between the cylinders blocks rusted away so I gave it to a collector for restoration.:eek:

Stuff built over here has gotten so expensive:eek: I don't blame you for going eslewhere.:D

Between satisfying the Fat Cat businessmen who need their trophy bonuses, the unions, the vocal minority, and the Governments, there isn't much money left to build anything if you want to stay competitive with companies that don't have to put up with that crap.

Have a great one,
 
#31 ·
Jim, I'm just playing, I miss playing with automotive bits but I am more used to playing with huge automotive bits. I have culture shock!:D

A basic compact tractor, even non running, would cost quite a bit more then I have spent so far.

Anyway, photos.


Just a quick shot from each end of the bench.
Stripped down axle, transfer box, 2CV box, buckets of bits.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Woody,

WOW how to you keep your bench so clean:D

Mine hasen't been that organised in years.:eek:

I have lots of started project stuff like this too. I woulkd take pictures but I'm too ashamed.

One of ny pullers uses a VW rabbit transaxle with a D&D ES 15A motor with the motor geared down 2 to 1 using a jackshaft.

I grafted a front end, steering, seat and hood from an old Sears tractor to the frame. I used the Hubs, Brakes and Spindles from a VW Dasher welded into the frame along with stock Rabbit alxes.

I'll attach a picture (ist Picture) of it taken at one of the Clubs shows. I let a few people try it out. Makes for big EV grins:D, this guy couldn't get enough of it, I had to pry him off. I'll attach another picture of when I was installing the motor. You'll notice how everything is twice as heavy as it needs to be. Got to break myself from overbuilding everything. (2nd picture)

The tractor is a work in progress so it hasent't been repainted yet. It sat out back for a few years once the ICE went bad.

I spent too much time on the Cub (3rd picture) so I didn't get the Different finished. The cub is something like I thought you wanted.

Since you are goung to build something around the size of a compact tractor I would recommend that you find a small 3 speed trans to put in between the 2CV and your motor. That will give you the gear reduction you need.

Then find the biggest rims you can at least 16 inches. Look around for garden tractor breakers and see if you cant find a set of wheels and tires.

By the way the tractor pictured in my signature is the different when it still had the ICE in it.

Sounds like you are just having more fun then is decent.
 

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