[bruceme]

Anyone out there know much about the DCP Raptor 600?

I think a previous owner of my EV limitted to about 200amps (probably to save weak batteries). I'm sure I can find the dial to turn it up, but should I? Or just live with the people honking in the mirror ?


-Bruce

[bruceme]

I bumped the Current Limit up about 25% (from ~180amps to ~230), HUGE improvement in low-end torque. I may bump it up more. I actually used slightly less kwh (5%) to get to work today (maybe because I spend less time climbing hills?)

[bruceme]

If anyone is following this 5 years from now... The throttle limiter plays a big factor too, setting it too low and the motor runs uncomanded (zero throttle)... aahh! Too high and it won't let the motor spin-out in low gears as it really should. It seams like its used to set the sensitivity of the RPM limitter.

-Bruce

[rillip3]

Good information to know - try not to run anybody over

[bruceme]

I turned it up... a lot, and my performance is far better. But... now the BMS has started to chirp that I'm some number of cells voltage have gone too low (any one will do it). So I backed it off a little and now I'm about perfect! I'm sure towards the end of the charge, it will go off, but I'd rather have the hill climbing power when I need it.

-Bruce

What kind of batteries and how old are they? Keep it set high but just under the max limit. It will save your controller. 550 limit would do you OK. I think you'd like that performance and I'd almost bet you never see 550 amps if you have lead batteries.

Pete

[bruceme]

Originally Posted by gottdi

What kind of batteries and how old are they? Keep it set high but just under the max limit. It will save your controller. 550 limit would do you OK. I think you'd like that performance and I'd almost bet you never see 550 amps if you have lead batteries.

Pete

TS LifePo4, 100ah... It's at about 250 absolute maximum now, so I'm safe. At this setting, when I really pound the throttle, total voltage drops under 128v for 44 cells, 2.9v/cell, that's average, some are probably dropping lower.

[bruceme]

Update... now my raptor wants to quit when it gets hot. It appears to be dropping out after hills. Not on the hills... after them. Failure is de-energizing the contactors (it controls them). So the entire high-V system goes cold. Wooohoo! I need a new controller

-Bruce

Originally Posted by bruceme

Update... now my raptor wants to quit when it gets hot. It appears to be dropping out after hills. Not on the hills... after them. Failure is de-energizing the contactors (it controls them). So the entire high-V system goes cold. Wooohoo! I need a new controller

-Bruce

No, you need to mount a good thick base deep finned aluminum heat sink to that controller. Dang another one trying to get away with no heat sink. It is an absolute must to have a good sink and good fan so you can keep the heat away. Heat will kill that controller post haste if you don't stop driving until you get one installed. It needs to be flat and you need good thermal compound between the sink and controller to transfer heat properly. NO EXCEPTIONS. I'd say bump up the amperage for your acceleration. Keeping it low means your vehicle is pushing those 250 amps far too long. Put the amps up so you can use them when needed. Mine is set at 700 and will be reset to 800 tomorrow. I almost never see those high amps except maybe briefly.

Get a sink on that controller NOW.

Pete

[Qer]

Originally Posted by gottdi

Heat will kill that controller post haste if you don't stop driving until you get one installed. It needs to be flat and you need good thermal compound between the sink and controller to transfer heat properly. NO EXCEPTIONS.

Yes exception on both accounts. Slapping a heat sink on a Soliton won't do jack, because the only flat surface you can mount it on won't contribute a bit to the cooling (that's why there's additional water cooling). A Soliton will also handle overheating gracefully to protect itself, so you can safely keep driving even when it's hot. It just might not produce the motor current you expect it to until it cools off again.

So, yes, there's at least one exception to your "NO EXCEPTION"-claim. Don't spread FUD.