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Old 05-17-2012, 04:26 AM
Wcsparky05 Wcsparky05 is offline
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Default Removal of ice parts w/o screwing up!

Hello, this is my very first post so,please, be gentle! I live in the sf east bay area and work as a union electrician so I have knowledge of electricity. I'm not afraid to say not much when it comes to cars. Some. I've done brake jobs and shocks and springs. I know that's not saying much.....
So, I just purchased a 1989 manual 5 speed mr2 that I am super anxious to get started to converting to electric. I have always loved the '85-'89 mr2's and always wanted to restore one. Now I am ready! I've been reading a lot so tomorrow I plan on degreasing everything and power washing and draining all fluids. I'm very nervous about taking out something I shouldn't or making any other mistakes! Any tips or help is extremely appreciated!!
Do I still need the Toyota factory computer after converting to electric?
Also I have read about Chevy s-10 electric conversions that they pull the motor and the transmission completely intact!
Wouldn't it be better for my mr2 to unbolt the transmission or rear differential to make it easier?
Also, are the Trojan t 875 and warp dc9" motor the best setup for my conversion? I am less than 30 miles from work.
Thank you so much for your help in advance.
Also, Brian's website, www.amphibike.org/index.cgi is so very amazing!!
That website really gave me the gumption.
One more thing....best prices on batteries, motors,controllers,etc.... Thx.
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  #2  
Old 05-17-2012, 04:42 AM
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Woodsmith Woodsmith is offline
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Default Re: Removal of ice parts w/o screwing up!

That's the Rev1 Mr2, the early shape?

I don't know much about them but with the Rev2 the correct way to remove the ICE was with the transmission intact and to drop it out from underneath after removing the drive shafts, suspension arms and cross member.

Once the unit is on the floor the car is lifted with the engine crane and the unit dragged out.

I took mine out from the top, with great difficulty and bent the gutter around the engine bay just a little for clearance. It has to go very high to clear the rear bodywork too.

When you remove it keep the engine bay loom intact and keep all the sensors from the ICE and cooling system, etc. It might be fine without but you never know if something won't work because the sensor isn't connected.

Also measure the space you have available as it is a tight squeeze to get a motor in next to the drive shaft and between the motor mounts.

When the ICE comes off measure the 'magic number', that is the distance from the back face of the ICE to the friction face of the flywheel. You will need this when you make up the adapter plate and coupler.

Post up some photos when you get a chance.
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Old 05-17-2012, 05:20 AM
Wcsparky05 Wcsparky05 is offline
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Default Re: Removal of ice parts w/o screwing up!

Thx for the reply. So do I need the Toyota factory computer still after the conversion? I won't need smog that's nice! Good idea! Maybe I can get the jack stands high enough to get some movers Dolly's under there and roll out the engine/tranny. Be a lot cheaper than renting or buying an engine hoist.
So I was planning on forking over $800 to this Canadian co. That specializes in mating dc 9 motor to tranny. Or would it be the rear differential? Rwd confusing me. I'm nervous but I'll figure it out. Someday! Haha
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:54 AM
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Cool Re: Removal of ice parts w/o screwing up!

you don't need the computer. I put my motor and tranny back into the car from underneath, jacked the front and rear way up and slid the assembly underneath then used a come along/ hoist to lift it into place
http://ddmcse.com/amped/blogs/blog4....6/sany1177-jpg

A shop manual would be very helpful, not a chiltons an actual yoda shop manual
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Old 05-17-2012, 06:56 AM
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Default Re: Removal of ice parts w/o screwing up!

I don't know with the Toyota computer and electronics. I know my Rev2 was a nightmare of wiring and little black boxes and nothing seemed to work unless everything was right...
I gave up in the end and changed my project vehicle.

It is possible to jack the car up high but what you will need is a beam across under the rear jacking points, just ahead of the rear wheels. The some tall trolley jacks and stands and some blocks to keep jacking until it is high enough. The ICE is tall and there are lots of bits of car to snag it on as it comes out so you will need height.
Don't bother with the moving trolley, there won't be space. Place two sheets of ply under the rear of the car with some very thin rollers between to roll the ICE out. Or one sheet of ply on a couple of pipes as rails and, with some ropes attached, drag it out.

The set up is a transverse mid engine so the conversion will the same as if it were a front engine front wheel drive. The motor will mate to the transmission, with or without the clutch.
That keeps it simple.

However, if you were wanting something different and more challenging then you could put in a rear wheel drive, independent suspension axle and a large motor in the tunnel and have direct drive, many hours of fun trying to make it work and get it legal I suspect.
I did think about it but my motor was too large to fit in the tunnel, just as it was too large to fit the transmission.
We live and learn.

This is my abandoned MR2 build thread for you entertainment.
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums...ad.php?t=34774
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:13 AM
Caps18 Caps18 is offline
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Default Re: Removal of ice parts w/o screwing up!

There should be more written about this aspect. I have been working on this part of things this month, and hope to have the engine out by the end of May. I do work full time as well...

I'm still unsure why or if I need to remove the transmission. I would rather not have to.

I am trying to document all of the steps I have taken so far. Draining oil, draining engine coolant, removing air filter, radiator, engine coolant tank, exhaust system, and fuel lines and tank are where I am at right now.
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Old 05-17-2012, 11:29 AM
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Default Re: Removal of ice parts w/o screwing up!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Caps18 View Post
There should be more written about this aspect....

I'm still unsure why or if I need to remove the transmission. I would rather not have to.
Removing the transmission makes it easier to fit the motor and then check it runs ok and is properly aligned. Because it isn't really replacing like for like, and the adapter plate could be slightly out of line and the coupler could be a little difficult, being able to assemble on the bench makes life simpler and allows a good look around the set up while running at 12v to make sure it is all working as it should.
It does depend on the adapter and how accurate it is and whether it needs to be moved about for the best motor alignment.
Some DIY adapters rely on the whole set up being assembled loose and vertically so the motor can be run while the adapter plate is moved about. The position where the motor runs quietest and smoothest is the one to bolt it down in. That can't be done while the transmission is still in the car.


If you want to leave the transmission in place then that is ok so long as you are able to get around it enough to make sure everything is working properly.
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Old 05-17-2012, 07:46 AM
TigerNut TigerNut is offline
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Default Re: Removal of ice parts w/o screwing up!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wcsparky05 View Post
Thx for the reply. So do I need the Toyota factory computer still after the conversion? I won't need smog that's nice! Good idea! Maybe I can get the jack stands high enough to get some movers Dolly's under there and roll out the engine/tranny. Be a lot cheaper than renting or buying an engine hoist.
So I was planning on forking over $800 to this Canadian co. That specializes in mating dc 9 motor to tranny. Or would it be the rear differential? Rwd confusing me. I'm nervous but I'll figure it out. Someday! Haha
Like I wrote to Caps18: Get the shop manual for the MR-2. Haynes makes good ones for Toyotas, or you can get the factory one. They have the wiring diagram, as well as the engine removal procedure, described step by step.
Getting the CanEV (or another type) of adapter will save you a huge hassle in connecting the motor to the transmission. The wiring diagram of the MR2 should help you figure out whether or not you can live without the ECU. I owned an AE86 Corolla GT-S in the past, and the ECU was pretty much dedicated to the engine - everything else was old-school.

For performance, range, and battery life, going to lithium batteries is the better choice. If you are short-term budget constrained, then lead-acid batteries will do, but you'll likely be replacing them within two years of getting the car on the road.
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Old 05-17-2012, 08:13 AM
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Default Re: Removal of ice parts w/o screwing up!

most of the wires to the motor won't matter and can just be unplugged or terminated. You DO want to find and label a couple for later use: the 12v+ keyed ignition wire for your contactor, and the backup light wires from the transmission may need to be re-routed.

Unless you are a machinist or have access to a free one, go with CanEV.com for the transmission adaptor if they stock one for your vehicle. They have a lot of experience and make some nice (clutched design) adaptors. Well worth the price to avoid self-design and fabrication unless you have access to mill and lathe.

Forget building with Lead if you can possibly afford Lithium. You'll be SO much happier with lower weight, less room, longer life... and its cheaper in the long run. Best price, availability, and delivery record may be had from evolveelectrics if they have stock, or direct from calibpower.com for the CALB cells.

major components like motor, controller, dc-dc, charger are best to buy one place to save shipping and perhaps get a discount. top-notch sources are kta-ev.com and evolveelectrics.com ... there are others too, but I have had great luck with both these guys.
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Old 05-17-2012, 03:25 PM
njloof njloof is offline
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This is a great thread... that I wish I had been reading two months ago

I did stick all the bolts and nuts into individual baggies with the part of the car they were removed from written in Sharpie.

Also, I have the genuine dealer service manual, which helps immensely for hints on disassembly, as well as figuring out how stuff goes back together (and at what torque!)
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