[SyCo]

I'm new to the EV world. I bought a unfinished project see here http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php/2002-accent-48v-15-5kw-ac-38064.html

I've got some specs about the motor and the controller but since I'm a newbie, I don't know if everything is setup correctly.

***Controller AC***
Curtis 1238-5601
36-48V
650A (2 min)
210A (1 hour)
User manual -> http://www.uqac.ca/~riceazar/1234_36...uly11_os11.pdf

***Motor AC***
ASDA4004
15.5 KW
3 o
30.3 V
405 A
90 Hz
1735 rpm
cos 0 0.831
Duty S2-60 minutes
6 pole


The thing I want to know is about Initial motor setup. At page 75 they talk about "AC Motor Characterization procedure" to learn the motor parameter that I don't have. It is also written to contact Curtis, which I did, but they told me:

Please consult your local dealer/distributor who sold the system to you. They would be better suited to support your requirements.

The base settings for the motror are defined at page 62. So I just want to know if I need to care about those or not ? Currently the motor is working but I just want to be sure everything is find.

[SyCo]

Some additional information... since I don't have all the answers, I've tried different settings after having some more specs for my motor (no. of pole).

The motor is revving a lot easier with new settings:
Encoder steps: 64
Pole: 6 (previously set to 4 before I've some help from major)

I'm also in contact with someone at Curtis Instruments and it seems that with my specific handheld programmer I can "learn" my motor charateristics... I'll let you know the results

Anyone know if I use the wrong settings if it can damage something ? (please note that all tests are conducted with car jacked and in neutral)

[SyCo]

*UPDATE*

I've received the procedure from Curtis and ran the characterization test. I was lucky to have the "OEM" handheld programmer because it was mandatory to perform the test.

Now my motor is a lot more responsive. The "slip gain" has now been set to 0.78 using the automated procedure and it looks it is a good setting because if I play with it by myself the response change quickly.


Now another question ...
Using my handheld programmer I can monitor the amp at the controller. The manual states: "Current (RMS) of the controller, taking all three phases into account." I also use a Fluke 1000 DC amp-meter on my positive cable from the batteries.

Can someone explain to me why the reading is different ? The controller says ~200A and the Fluke says ~50A ?!

Which one should I trust to read my amps ??

[major]

Originally Posted by SyCo;148747Using my handheld programmer I can monitor the amp at the controller. The manual states: "[I

Current (RMS) of the controller, taking all three phases into account.[/i]" I also use a Fluke 1000 DC amp-meter on my positive cable from the batteries.

Can someone explain to me why the reading is different ? The controller says ~200A and the Fluke says ~50A ?!

Hy Sy,

The programmer is telling you the AC current (RMS), or phase current. The Fluke is clamped on the battery lead so reads DC current. The difference between motor current (AC) and battery current (DC).

I assume you are doing this at no load on the motor, maybe wheels up or in neutral. Induction motors are terrible for power factor at no load. So a big part of the AC current is reactive.

For an induction motor, the no load current is basically the magnetizing current. 200 amps (AC) does not sound out of line for a motor at that voltage. 50 amps (DC) sounds high if you're working from a 48 volt battery.

Regards,

major

[SyCo]

Originally Posted by major

Hy Sy,
... 50 amps (DC) sounds high if you're working from a 48 volt battery.

Regards,

major

Yes, wheels up in neutral... ok now I understand between AC vs DC. I will double check tonigh my amp AC and DC and the corresponding RPMs.

I think my reading maybe off because it was by memory

[yarross]

Originally Posted by major

For an induction motor, the no load current is basically the magnetizing current. 200 amps (AC) does not sound out of line for a motor at that voltage. 50 amps (DC) sounds high if you're working from a 48 volt battery.

Hmmm. 50A @ 48V makes 2.4kW. Looks excessively high for no-load conditions.
SyCo, is this a RMS value?

[SyCo]

Originally Posted by yarross

Hmmm. 50A @ 48V makes 2.4kW. Looks excessively high for no-load conditions.
SyCo, is this a RMS value?

Well I'm using a Fluke meter clipped around my positive cable @ 48V and the value appears on the display. Don't know if it's RMS or not. About the load I did some tests sometimes in gear sometimes not. I think I remember less than 10A DC in neutral.