[Woodsmith]

Originally Posted by Jimdear2

Woody,

That fender shape looks strangely familiar.

I used to get a lot of ribbing about the strange fender shape I used on my pullers. First tractor was a matter of expedience. I didn't have access to a set of rollers but could bend a sheet of aluminium with a couple of pieces of angle iron, some clamps and a rubber hammer. After that it was just stubbornness.

A hint from experience, if your going to be in sticky mud you will want a bit more clearance. Three or four inches

Looking good.
Jim

Both my trailer fenders are also that shape for the same reason as yours!




I am banking on the big tires being used on hard standing with about 2" clearance. The agri tyres are about 3" smaller in diameter so I hope I will have my extra clearance that way. Of course, if I get bigger tyres....

[Jimdear2]

Originally Posted by Woodsmith

Both my trailer fenders are also that shape for the same reason as yours!

Goes to show you . . . great minds think alike

Originally Posted by Woodsmith

I am banking on the big tires being used on hard standing with about 2" clearance. The agri tyres are about 3" smaller in diameter so I hope I will have my extra clearance that way. Of course, if I get bigger tyres....

Bigger tires would just be a (good) excuse to make some more "Woody Stuff"

Jim

[Woodsmith]

Bigger tyres may also mean a bigger transaxle!

I do keep checking Ebay for them....

[Woodsmith]

The mudguards are finally fitted.

That was a job and a half getting them right and fitted without moving the tractor too much.
I did fit both big tyres and then drive into the door way so that the rear wheels were up on the door step. That gave me the space underneath to get two angle iron outriggers welded on to support the front edge of the mudguards. The out riggers will also support foot boards as well, later.

With the tractor back inside I backed the mudguards with some of the phenolic sheet but I couldn't mount them on that. The front edge was bolted to the outriggers with three SS bolts into a threaded backing plate. That allowed a solid fixing without relying on the low strength timber.
Trying to work in that narrow gap against the wall was back breaking as there was no easy access. I could have moved the tractor but I was obstructing the hallway enough as it was and it is blowing a warm gale outside.
The top of the guards were screwed to an Oak batten that was then bolted to the seat back support. It is not strong enough to stand on but it is otherwise very functional. Some Airforce 'No Step' stickers should suffice.

I decided to paint the guards satin black, like the rest of the back end of the tractor as the wood was too poor quality. I am still tempted to remake then at some point with something nicer as they would do as a pattern.





The clearance to the tyre is about 1 1/2" on the big tyres. That will be a good bit more with the agri tyres.

Very tired now, it has been a physically demanding process.

[Jimdear2]

Woody,

Beeeeee-U-ti-ful

Jim

[piotrsko]

Way cool, but your work and assembly areas leave something to be desired, and the Cyclonic weather isn't helping. Painted the Substandard wood you say??????? Hmmmm, slipping a bit there. You must have that gotta get it done syndrome.

You need to pick a unifying color, one that will blend all your wood(y) elements with the metal bits. Ask Arch for help here.

[Jimdear2]

Originally Posted by Woodsmith

T

I decided to paint the guards satin black, like the rest of the back end of the tractor as the wood was too poor quality. I am still tempted to remake then at some point with something nicer as they would do as a pattern.

Woody,

Well there is always veneer, Formica or "shudder" contact paper.

Jim

[Woodsmith]

I am on the look out for some better Oak boards but I will wait for them. The mudguards, as they stand, function and will be good templates.
It is the same with the boards for the 'tunnel' and the sides of the battery bay. I will get them done in due course as more Oak comes to hand. I do have three rolls of Oak effect Fablon though.

In the meantime I am trying to 'get it done' for testing at the farm to get real data for the farm tractor conversion job.


However, in other news, the tractor let out the magic smoke today.

It was only the fuse though.
I removed the dash to cut a hole for the controller 'power up' switch that I ordered today and when I was refitting it I was tired, low on sugar and trying to get it all back in before I get ready for dinner tonight.
I managed to connect the battery negative to the output side of the fuse and the battery positive to the controller onto the negative side of the shunt.
I am assuming that with both ends of the pack connected across the fuse when I closed the isolator switch that no current flowed anywhere else so the controller and CA will be unaffected.
There was just a little 'Pfffttt' and some smoke from the fuse.

Oh well. That will remind me why I usually go away for a cup of tea and then recheck the wiring before powering up.

[Arch]

Originally Posted by Jimdear2

Woody,

Well there is always veneer, Formica or "shudder" contact paper.

Jim

If you mean what we in the UK know as "Sticky Back Plastic", then it's been mentioned....

In fact, I think there's a roll knocking about at my workplace that I could borrow....

We were discussing whether the tractor needs a name. I suggested "Watt", because whenever Woody tells anyone he's built an electric tractor in his hallway, they say "what?!?!?!??!"

Closely followed by "why?"

[Woodsmith]

Originally Posted by piotrsko

You need to pick a unifying color, one that will blend all your wood(y) elements with the metal bits. Ask Arch for help here.

Arch! What colour are your belts and bags?