The last step was to install the stock axles. Another obstacle appeared here; the wheel hubs needed to be removed in order to install the axles.
Some hours pass, the axles are installed, and the wheels are back on.
I took some additional time to take out the torque wrench and ensure all my bolts were correctly torqued. I don't want my axle flying off on the highway!
Buttoned up :--)
Since the rear end is completed, I went ahead and reconnected the brake lines, ESC sensors, and hand brake lines that I removed when I uninstalled the rear sub frame to remove the gas tank.
Dropped the car, pushed it, and the pinion flange rotates! Success!
I know a couple of people wanted updates on the car, and I have been working diligently on it for the last couple of months!
However, I don't usually update this thread as much as I do on another website. I will try to transfer all the information, but for the time being I will try to provide a link to the thread
Just a pointer as I was looking through your pics I noticed the thumb incident. It looks like you figured this out, but I just thought I'd say. NEVER EVER wear gloves while working with lathes, mills and drill presses or any other large equipment that has rotating parts exposed to your hands. If I saw someone in my shop wearing gloves while doing something like this I'd fire them on the spot. It's very dangerous.
Each of the cells has to have tape removed, a sticker removed, adhesive from said sticker removed, then have the tabs punched, and finally have its perimeter wrapped in kapton tape. I got a bunch of friends together to expedite the process!
Decided to run Orion BMS, major shout out to Andrew Ewert and his support of my project. Out of all the components I have purchased for the car, the two best companies for support are Ewert Energy (Orion BMS) and Netgain motors! I can send an email out on sunday morning asking a quick question, and Andrew will usually respond in less than an hour. Super helpful!
I also began a Nike+ iPod RFID keyless ignition project, haven't touched it much but it should work in theory.
Also I have decided after some thought to get one last part machined for the drive train.
This motor coupler will be sandwiched between the two motors where the set screw coupling is located.
Reasons why:
- More rigidity
- It will take the stress off of the bearings
- It will hold the motors together
- It will prevent my death if the coupling were to explode at highway speeds
Unfortunately, as accuracy is imperative here, I will need to get the coupling machined by water jet.
I will see what I can do get it made!
Re: Honda S2000 Conversion Thread
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