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Old 07-08-2012, 06:56 PM
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Default [EVDL] 20v to chassis ground.. bummer

I was hopefully finishing up my truck today to spin the wheels with the
controller, not just a 12v battery.

Current pack is 96v flooded trojan t875 and controller is z1k
The trojans are old, still holding with most around 7.95v after sitting for
a month, some have visible dampness around the top seal, but not excessive
but this would be my first idea if some of it has leaked onto the battery
box and then truck frame causing a path for current?

Help.
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  #2  
Old 07-08-2012, 07:26 PM
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Default Re: [EVDL] 20v to chassis ground.. bummer

Measured -69v to chassis from b- hooked up to the zilla, my last connection
was to be wired accross the contactor to zilla b+ from fuse.

The reality is likely to be that I need to wipe down the batteries again :/
http://twitpic.com/a5jxbi they don't look bad to me, but another thing to
hasten the purchase of a new pack I guess.
[quote] "Dave Hymers" <xxx@xxx.xxx> wrote:
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  #3  
Old 07-08-2012, 09:45 PM
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Default Re: [EVDL] 20v to chassis ground.. bummer

Hello Dave,

Take a voltage reading from a positive battery terminal to the battery
plastic top. Place one lead on the battery terminal and the other one about
1/8 inch away from that same terminal and note the voltage.

Now move the test lead on the plastic battery top by sliding it away from
that terminal and you will notice the voltage will drop. This is normal
with a lead acid battery with vent caps that allow battery fumes to vent
out.

The whole surface and even the battery box surfaces will become more
conductive after each charge cycle.

Spray the entire top surface with Windex that has ammonia in it. The
ammonia is what is use in most battery cleaners to neutralize the battery
acid. Also spray the inside the surfaces with this cleaner and wipe down
with paper towels.

One trick I did was before I install my batteries in my battery box which
has a epoxy spray on surface which is the same stuff that is use to
recondition tubs and showers that I got from any hard ware store. Also I
lay in about 1/2 thick layer of baking soda for the batteries to set on
which you can get in a big 5 lb box from a big box store.

One more thing about the Zilla. If you have the battery negative going
straight to the Zilla, it passes through right to the motor. If you are
using a DC motor with brushes, then sometimes there could be brush dust
tracking off the communtator, down the face of the communtator and to the
motor shaft.

I normally had to clean this area about once a month or until the motor
resistance to ground reduce to 30k ohms. A new motor will normally start
out at 20 megohms. To prevent this tracking across these surfaces, I pick
up some spray motor enamel from a motor shop which I spray the front of the
communtator down to the motor shaft and on the motor shaft up to the
bearing.

Both battery leads should be disconnected from the motor controller while
charger. Either by a Anderson Disconnect or by a pair of contactors which
can also be use as a emergency disconnect.

Roland






----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Hymers" <xxx@xxx.xxx>
To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <xxx@xxx.xxx.edu>
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 6:52 PM
Subject: [EVDL] 20v to chassis ground.. bummer


> I was hopefully finishing up my truck today to spin the wheels with the
> controller, not just a 12v battery.
>
> Current pack is 96v flooded trojan t875 and controller is z1k
> The trojans are old, still holding with most around 7.95v after sitting
> for
> a month, some have visible dampness around the top seal, but not excessive
> but this would be my first idea if some of it has leaked onto the battery
> box and then truck frame causing a path for current?
>
> Help.
> -------------- next part --------------
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> | Please take those discussions elsewhere. Thanks.
> |
> | REPLYING: address your message to xxx@xxx.xxx.edu only.
> | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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>

_______________________________________________
| Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
| Please take those discussions elsewhere. Thanks.
|
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| Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
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  #4  
Old 07-11-2012, 09:25 AM
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Default Re: [EVDL] 20v to chassis ground.. bummer

Thanks Roland,

I cleaned the tops and around the posts and managed to get it down to 18v.
I also attempted to measure current leakage with a 50ohm resistor hooked up
to my multimeter and tested on a 12v bat and read .24a perfectly.

I get no measured current leakage when testing using 10a or 200ma from B+
to chassis ground... is that possible? Its a pretty cheap meter, I have
another that I'll use also.
[quote] "Roland Wiench" <xxx@xxx.xxx> wrote:

> Hello Dave,
>
> Take a voltage reading from a positive battery terminal to the battery
> plastic top. Place one lead on the battery terminal and the other one
> about
> 1/8 inch away from that same terminal and note the voltage.
>
> Now move the test lead on the plastic battery top by sliding it away from
> that terminal and you will notice the voltage will drop. This is normal
> with a lead acid battery with vent caps that allow battery fumes to vent
> out.
>
> The whole surface and even the battery box surfaces will become more
> conductive after each charge cycle.
>
> Spray the entire top surface with Windex that has ammonia in it. The
> ammonia is what is use in most battery cleaners to neutralize the battery
> acid. Also spray the inside the surfaces with this cleaner and wipe down
> with paper towels.
>
> One trick I did was before I install my batteries in my battery box which
> has a epoxy spray on surface which is the same stuff that is use to
> recondition tubs and showers that I got from any hard ware store. Also I
> lay in about 1/2 thick layer of baking soda for the batteries to set on
> which you can get in a big 5 lb box from a big box store.
>
> One more thing about the Zilla. If you have the battery negative going
> straight to the Zilla, it passes through right to the motor. If you are
> using a DC motor with brushes, then sometimes there could be brush dust
> tracking off the communtator, down the face of the communtator and to the
> motor shaft.
>
> I normally had to clean this area about once a month or until the motor
> resistance to ground reduce to 30k ohms. A new motor will normally start
> out at 20 megohms. To prevent this tracking across these surfaces, I pick
> up some spray motor enamel from a motor shop which I spray the front of the
> communtator down to the motor shaft and on the motor shaft up to the
> bearing.
>
> Both battery leads should be disconnected from the motor controller while
> charger. Either by a Anderson Disconnect or by a pair of contactors which
> can also be use as a emergency disconnect.
>
> Roland
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Hymers" <xxx@xxx.xxx>
> To: "Electric Vehicle Discussion List" <xxx@xxx.xxx.edu>
> Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 6:52 PM
> Subject: [EVDL] 20v to chassis ground.. bummer
>
>
> > I was hopefully finishing up my truck today to spin the wheels with the
> > controller, not just a 12v battery.
> >
> > Current pack is 96v flooded trojan t875 and controller is z1k
> > The trojans are old, still holding with most around 7.95v after sitting
> > for
> > a month, some have visible dampness around the top seal, but not
> excessive
> > but this would be my first idea if some of it has leaked onto the battery
> > box and then truck frame causing a path for current?
> >
> > Help.
> > -------------- next part --------------
> > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > URL:
> >
> http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/private/ev/attachments/20120708/24a5218c/attachment.html
> > _______________________________________________
> > | Moratorium on drag racing discussion is in effect.
> > | Please take those discussions elsewhere. Thanks.
> > |
> > | REPLYING: address your message to xxx@xxx.xxx.edu only.
> > | Multiple-address or CCed messages may be rejected.
> > | UNSUBSCRIBE: http://www.evdl.org/help/index.html#usub
> > | OTHER HELP: http://evdl.org/help/
> > | CONFIGURE: http://lists.sjsu.edu/mailman/listinfo/ev
> >
>
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| Please take those discussions elsewhere. Thanks.
|
| REPLYING: address your message to xxx@xxx.xxx.edu only.
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