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  #41  
Old 05-12-2012, 09:43 PM
NintendoKD NintendoKD is offline
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

Ok, lets talk turkey. Planning this thing out, I want to make similar power number to what was originally in the car. The 1zzfe that was originally in the car, and put out anywhere from 120HP to 140 HP, lets just split the difference and try for 130. Now lets say my baldor 10HP motor can put that down without dissintegrating. To get that, 1 watt being ~.00134HP I would need ~100,000watts, CHRIST!, that is a little bit of juice. So lets just say I have 90v battery bank, and step up the voltage to 90,000, I would need just 10A of power to power the motor, ah... but it isn't that easy is it? there are losses to account for. In reality, I would need a 120v battery system. to invert and push voltage to 90,000 at 10 AMPS, even then, I would be pulling ~833.333 amps from the batteries, lets just say 850A "losses remember?" am I getting on track here? What I want to do is invert the power to three phase, and step up the voltage, effectively lowering the amp consumption on the motor, relieving some stress, however won't this create a breakdown voltage situation with the laquer on the windings? I have lots of questions, need an electrical engineer. Ok, back on track here, I still need a frequency converter to change motor rpms right? So, my plan, is to use a rotary gap LC circuit, or tesla coil as some circles call it to invert DC and drive the motor to 100,000W, or ~134HP. or am I completely wrong here?
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  #42  
Old 05-12-2012, 09:54 PM
NintendoKD NintendoKD is offline
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

The generator is one from a detroit diesel of canada manufacturing. brushless DC alternator generator. 24VDC @~220A so ~5,250KVA, not bad, so horsepower needed to drive 5250, would be ~7.1HP I could get that from my onan gas engine, it is like a 10 HP motor, so I can hook this thing up and get 5.2 KW instead of 3, and it is already DC, when it comes out. Nice!
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  #43  
Old 05-17-2012, 02:52 AM
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GuySmily GuySmily is offline
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

If you don't oppose, I'll start compiling info here with you since I'm nowhere near starting my own build, and I figure it doesn't hurt to share info for the same car. I will probably do a "dream build" thread of my own, at least.

I took some really rough (+/- at least 1") measurements in the engine bay, to see where batteries could fit. If the electric motor isn't too tall, you could fit 34" x 16" x 11" of batteries against the firewall / under the soft top, and another 34" x 10" x 18" in the mufler area. No idea what kind of pack that amounts to, but I'd like to keep batteries out of the frunk and rear storage bins if possible. (For those not familiar with the car, we have a large spare tire bin under the front hood, and cubbies behind the seat).

I'm sure when the gas tank is gone, there's space there as well, but I'm worried because a 12gal tank is only 1.6 ft^3. I have no idea what the dimensions are, but you can guesstimate battery box size by playing with these dimensions: https://www.google.com/search?q=(36*13*6)+in%5E3+to+gal



Something I totally forgot about was the axle carrier on the back of our 1zz - something that other 1zzs (Corolla/Matrix at least) don't have.

Luckily, someone else has thought of this already. Seeing this picture is almost freaky, but it's comforting to know this has done this before.

http://rebirthauto.com/rebirthautoto...ingsystem.aspx

Shame the MR2 logo won't be visible when installed.

Last edited by GuySmily; 05-17-2012 at 03:22 AM.
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  #44  
Old 05-21-2012, 03:38 PM
NintendoKD NintendoKD is offline
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

Quote:
Originally Posted by GuySmily View Post
If you don't oppose, I'll start compiling info here with you since I'm nowhere near starting my own build, and I figure it doesn't hurt to share info for the same car. I will probably do a "dream build" thread of my own, at least.

I took some really rough (+/- at least 1") measurements in the engine bay, to see where batteries could fit. If the electric motor isn't too tall, you could fit 34" x 16" x 11" of batteries against the firewall / under the soft top, and another 34" x 10" x 18" in the mufler area. No idea what kind of pack that amounts to, but I'd like to keep batteries out of the frunk and rear storage bins if possible. (For those not familiar with the car, we have a large spare tire bin under the front hood, and cubbies behind the seat).

I'm sure when the gas tank is gone, there's space there as well, but I'm worried because a 12gal tank is only 1.6 ft^3. I have no idea what the dimensions are, but you can guesstimate battery box size by playing with these dimensions: https://www.google.com/search?q=(36*13*6)+in%5E3+to+gal



Something I totally forgot about was the axle carrier on the back of our 1zz - something that other 1zzs (Corolla/Matrix at least) don't have.

Luckily, someone else has thought of this already. Seeing this picture is almost freaky, but it's comforting to know this has done this before.

http://rebirthauto.com/rebirthautoto...ingsystem.aspx

Shame the MR2 logo won't be visible when installed.
GUY..... *drools* Do WANT!, where do I get that sexiness?
ok, I went here, and I soon realized that I should have gonet here first, there is a lot of info here: My build will be a little different, I am going to use an 02Q, or 02M, transmission from a volkswagen "a throwback from wanting to install the vw turbodiesel engine" There is another reason, I want a transmission that will not grenade on me, when I put some power through it. The VolksYota is just on hold for now, I have not given up on my dream. "electric cars are for girls" has a metric crapton of information and is very useful, I still need to source a shop to re-wind a motor for me, or at least a good place to recycle all of the single speed motors that I have acquired "HEAVY!"

you are the best GUY

An Idea that I have been playing around with, is low friction bearings, coupled with placing the rotor assy. into a vacuum "which would prove to be rather difficult" for cooling and for other reasons, I know that some interesting things happen inside of a vacuum and am a bit curious about how it will effect the operation of an induction motor.
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A lot of money first. A good light weight vehicle. 9" motor, Soliton1, Synkromotive controller, Warp Drive Controller, Zilla Controller. A large pack of lithium batteries. 45 kWH at least. A good charger and lots of money. Oh, and more money. It will be expensive. You won't be able to do that with Lead Acid batteries. PETE
Most of the other stuff is minor compared to the car, motor, controller and battery pack.
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  #45  
Old 05-21-2012, 03:42 PM
NintendoKD NintendoKD is offline
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

I think that keeping some weight in the rear/middle of the car is a wise idea, as the original intent of the car was to be close to a 50/50 weight ratio, in this respect, lion batteries are almost a necessity from an enthusiasts perspective, I think that removing as many useless accessories, equipment from the car and taking measurements for free space would come first, then measure components before they go in would be the best way to go about design. I want to do this, but I want to do it right the first time.
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A lot of money first. A good light weight vehicle. 9" motor, Soliton1, Synkromotive controller, Warp Drive Controller, Zilla Controller. A large pack of lithium batteries. 45 kWH at least. A good charger and lots of money. Oh, and more money. It will be expensive. You won't be able to do that with Lead Acid batteries. PETE
Most of the other stuff is minor compared to the car, motor, controller and battery pack.
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  #46  
Old 07-11-2012, 08:43 PM
NintendoKD NintendoKD is offline
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

ok, so I have a new renewed effort in building my EV. A very enthusiastic gentleman has given me a large high efficiency baldor 3-phase 20 HP motor. I have a motor in the ballpark of what I want to achieve. I will go with lead acid for now, and buy up as I save money. I know most of the major components that are going to be necessary, like a FDM, BMS, charger, batteries, inverter, and I want to go high voltage, so I need all of the non, major components, like what wire to use, I have ot guage copper, for DC and welding, and for the batteries, but what about for everything else? connectors, safeties, etc?
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A lot of money first. A good light weight vehicle. 9" motor, Soliton1, Synkromotive controller, Warp Drive Controller, Zilla Controller. A large pack of lithium batteries. 45 kWH at least. A good charger and lots of money. Oh, and more money. It will be expensive. You won't be able to do that with Lead Acid batteries. PETE
Most of the other stuff is minor compared to the car, motor, controller and battery pack.
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  #47  
Old 07-11-2012, 08:46 PM
NintendoKD NintendoKD is offline
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

I want to keep A/C, and I know of a way to make a good heater, using an A/C style pulley with a switch "I'll leave that a secret for now, but a hint is lenz's law". I know I'll use some supercaps for heavy draw, to augment the batteries, and make better use of them.
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A lot of money first. A good light weight vehicle. 9" motor, Soliton1, Synkromotive controller, Warp Drive Controller, Zilla Controller. A large pack of lithium batteries. 45 kWH at least. A good charger and lots of money. Oh, and more money. It will be expensive. You won't be able to do that with Lead Acid batteries. PETE
Most of the other stuff is minor compared to the car, motor, controller and battery pack.
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  #48  
Old 07-12-2012, 01:45 PM
NintendoKD NintendoKD is offline
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

so I searched here: www.car-part.com
and am currently looking for cheap battery packs, from hybrid vehicles to make my EV at a more affordable price, and give me better range, and more power at lower cost.
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A lot of money first. A good light weight vehicle. 9" motor, Soliton1, Synkromotive controller, Warp Drive Controller, Zilla Controller. A large pack of lithium batteries. 45 kWH at least. A good charger and lots of money. Oh, and more money. It will be expensive. You won't be able to do that with Lead Acid batteries. PETE
Most of the other stuff is minor compared to the car, motor, controller and battery pack.
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  #49  
Old 07-23-2012, 12:32 AM
jkeller1ca jkeller1ca is offline
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

Cool! I was surprised when I saw that photo of the mount from my MR2 Spyder. I had the guys from Rebirth Auto make that for me, as you found out. Now that they have the pattern for the transmission, they should be able to make an adapter to fit any motor you want.

For what it's worth, I completed my MR2 Spyder conversion about a year and a half ago. It's been my daily driver ever since. See:

http://www.evalbum.com/4003

For all the specs.

One thing to keep in mind. This car is VERY light and has ALMOST NO cargo capacity from the factory. I ended up ripping out nearly everything that wasn't bolted down to keep the weight under control. AC gone. Radiator gone. Carbon fiber hood and trunk. So much wiring, gone. I even put in a lightweight stereo and speaker system (10 lbs!) Even after all that, I cannot take a passenger heavier than a hundred pounds or so without exceeding the GVWR of the car, it's that close.

This summer, I'm looking at swapping in the beatup old ADC FB4001A you see in the picture with a Warp Impulse 9". With that, some extreme rewiring to reduce the amount of 2/0 and 4/0 I use, new lightweight seats, redoing some battery pack mounts with chromolly tube, and skipping some McDonalds, I hope to shave another 50 pounds off the car.

But all said and done, it is a blast to drive! Top down, 85^H^H65 mph on the highway, with just the wind and tire noise. Quite a difference from the buzzy little motor originally in the thing.

Let me know if you have any questions, I'd be glad to answer them. What I SHOULD do is get off my butt and post some photos.
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  #50  
Old 07-23-2012, 12:45 AM
jkeller1ca jkeller1ca is offline
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Default Re: 2001 MR2 spyder E/V build

Quote:
Originally Posted by NintendoKD View Post
I think that keeping some weight in the rear/middle of the car is a wise idea, as the original intent of the car was to be close to a 50/50 weight ratio, in this respect, lion batteries are almost a necessity from an enthusiasts perspective.
I agree, you'll probably want a Lion pack. Keep in mind that the MR2 Spyder is a lightweight rear-wheel drive car. The stock weight distribution is 44/56 (front/rear) and is very sensitive to weight distribution. Look up "snap oversteer" and "lift-off oversteer" for some cautions about the MR2 design. I was able to push the distribution forward a bit from stock, 48/52 which seems to help keep the car in-line even at more neutral tire alignments. But, yeah, take your time and have fun.

Last edited by jkeller1ca; 07-23-2012 at 12:57 AM. Reason: typo
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